Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

OK 379 to 6 now, managed to sand out & buff the front valance without any mishaps!
This may be the closest piece to perfect on the car too bad it's way down under , one tiny dirt dot & a sanding line but they are hard to see & way way under the bottom.20220903_163356.jpg20220903_163606.jpg
Got 2 of the good pieces hanging below the rafters where I hope they will survive without damage till they go on the car! 20220903_164311.jpg
 
Lookin' good! What ya gonna do with the car when it's done and you're happy with the finish?
 
This one will have a working radio & A/C if I can get that running, I'll drive it around if I'm still allowed by the time it's done.
I'll probably never be "happy" with the finish, I will tolerate it!
 
Fixed income & what's going on with prices is already straining the check book, we've already ate up a lot of the money I got for the other car that was supposed to be more than I needed to do this car.
I should have isolated that wad. trying to take as little as possible out of my IRA , but I will have to up the amount pretty soon, just hope the markets make a comeback before I do that?
 
Yea it sucks, but yes I do know it would cost way more than the motor rebuild will!

Got 1 door sanded out & started 1st round of buffing, too bad I have tiger stripes, there's not a lot of stuff in the paint! 20220906_161714.jpg20220906_161730.jpg
Leaving it as is till I get the panels mounted & then make a decision on if I'll repaint most or the dang car!
 
Re: engine building - I don't know how shipping would work out, but I found this link the other day and the engine prices are favorable - but the website says it was last updated in 2020. He's Judy Lilly's husband.

CompleteEngines

Coincidentally, I posted this the day before Judy Lilly's death became public knowledge. According to her OB, Maurer's performance is her ex-husband. She was a favorite of mine, RIP.
 
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Probably a lot!
My guy is in the 4K range depending on what's good in there, I have a #'s block that MUST be saved!
He's only about a half hour from me.
 
Finished off the buffing, swirl remover & final glaze & it's done for now, hope I don't have any oopsies in those rounds!
Here you can see the worst dark spot, upper middle.20220907_161025.jpg
Cleaned up & scuffed the other fender for prime, could not get it in a good position for paint, I'll prime it here, seal coat all over & a couple of coats of blocking primer on the outside.
When I paint I'll shoot the back hung like this & then set it up on something to shoot the front, A lot more hassle separately but the way it's hung I doubt I can get it evenly coated? 20220907_161232.jpg
 
OK, does anyone know how you get the buffing debris off, so far I did soap & water, wax & grease remover & hand rubbing with some compound, it doesn't budge??? 20220908_154332.jpg20220908_154341.jpg
those parts were nice & shinny before I buffed the top?
 
On to the other depressing results, finished off the door & dang I think I got the clear right, can't find a lot of dirt or peel , she shined up really nicely, too bad I didn't get the paint underneath right.
maybe I only take it out at night! 20220908_160154.jpg20220908_160224.jpg
 
Shot the whole fender with one seal coat & then hit the outside with 3 coats of blocking primer, see how straight a new fender is? 20220909_153155.jpg
 
We will see?

So I've been sanding away to try & get ready for one more try at a paint shoot, was talking with my friend about buying a good gun, at around 1000 bucks but He's not in a position to go halves at this time, then I noticed another eastwood (cheepie) gun up on my shelf, can not remember why I didn't use it, it looks almost brand new.
So since I have the back side of the fender to shoot I'm going to try it out on that to see how it shoots, if good I'll go ahead & use that for the rest of the blue?
It's a shame I couldn't patch in that C pillar the roof is sanding out nice & I think I could have lived with it.
Wet after sanding..............20220915_154625.jpg
The C pillar, about 9 different colors! 20220915_154641.jpg
Fender is blocked out & ready for paint.
 
That's a really nice colour. Is there a huge difference between a thousand dollar gun and one that costs half that?
 
A $1000 paint gun... you're not talking a good gun: you're talking top shelf stuff.
Honestly, if what you're using is capable of a good 6 at 6 spray pattern with fine droplets, it's good enough. The top-line stuff is really designed for the guys who have them in their hands for hours at a time, day after day. Not that I have anything against them (I've owned more than a few myself), but it's a pile of $$$ for one or two paint jobs.
 
Honestly if I didn't screw up so much the eastwood one I have been using gave good results, my friend is going by the body shop guys guns & how much better the results are, but maybe it's because they are the pros using the gun!
Yep I'm not a big spender, the one I've been using was the eastwood 2 gun kit I bought sometime during the first car which I think got painted 3 times before it left here.
maybe 179 bucks for the kit?
The gun I just dusted off I don't even remember when I bought it & why it got shelved.
If I ever get done sanding everything back down I'll test that on the back of the fender & go from there.
Maybe I'll bet lucky.
So is there a GOOD gun out there for like a couple hundred?
 
I'm out of the loop as to what's out there now and for how much. Been over 10 years since I've stepped into a booth...
I've used SATA guns, Binks, DeVilbiss, Sharpe, Anest-Iwata, and have had excellent luck with all of them. The Iwata guns are certainly among the best I've ever used, but they're in the $1000 range. Sata is right close to them.
Truthfully, the guns I've liked the best are all DeVilbiss models. Production or restoration, they're very versatile & capable. They fit my hand, and that makes a difference, if you know what I mean. Maybe not quite as fine atomization as an top-line Iwata, but unless one is shooting high-end pearls on a high-end ride, the difference is negligible.
I think for you, shooting outdoors, anything comfortable to your hand with a 1.3 -1.4 fluid tip, simple fan control, and no gaps in the fan should work nicely. If it's capable of a 6" wide, even fan at a 6" distance, with fine droplets in the overspray ring, it's all you''ll ever need. It's all most painters ever need.
Pretty much anything more than that comes from the painter himself.
 
I was looking at some 3m equipment on amazon. No idea if this is any good, but the reviews look great for someone into garage sprayed restorations. At some point, I'm going to try my hand at painting more than just a fender. Is this just more junk? :

3M hvlp sprayer
 
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