Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Where do I start, we have some progress, some good some bad.
I guess the no metal in the pan was the best news, He did a little more research on the oil & was afraid of the 20/50 because of cold starts in the winter, went with 10/40 & added the rislone.
Cold start she was up to 60, increase of 20, he actually found some tape in the oil filter base, my bad I swear I removed it all.
Still issues with the idle speed, He was trying for 700 in drive, but had to set the normal idle way up to get that, thinking I may have a pretty stiff converter in there, I have no idea what's in there stock or not?He did have more luck with the idle adjustments but thinks we are at a point where when he tries to increase idle just a little more it's going past the idle circuit.
His thinking is stiffer springs on the needle valves (If I have the right spot/part)
& drilling 4 holes in the bottom to fool the carb into thinking the vanes are open???
that one I have to google, over my head.

So drove it around for about 20 mins. 25mph mostly holding in the 30lb range, 45 mph It ran around 40 lbs
But the more I drove the lower it got coming to a stop, 18-20 early on & down to 10 later.
Then it started the dying out thing when I was almost home & actually stalled putting it in the garage.

So back to figuring out this dang carb.
At least the regulator seems good now, holding the setting of 5lbs.
 
Plus I would say that your oil pressure is now within acceptable range. If you're idling 700-800 in gear with 10 psi of oil -- no sweat. remember the old rule of thumb, 10 psi for every 1,000 of rpm.
 
As for dying at idle, it's either starving for fuel or flooding. DO NOT drill throttle plates until you know for sure which it is. And idle passage fuel mixture is controlled by the idle jets. If it's starving richen the setting and compensate idle speed with the idle speed screw. Without an o2 sensor it may be hard to determine. But exhaust smell at idle can be a good indicator.
 
OK, just checked I had the wrong springs, it's the metering rod springs in the top of the carb, a set of those is cheap enough to do a test with a few different springs.
He thought I needed stiffer.
Watched a video on tuning & that guy said weaker spring if you have a cam& low vac.
If I get the kit I guess I can go both ways & see what works best

Tomorrow I'll raise the idle screw 1/2 turn & do another test drive.
What's still driving me nuts is things seem to change on their own as the car is at different temps.
Even when I make the adjustment when hot, drive around some & then put it in neutral & the idle seems a lot faster then when I started 20 mins earlier?
 
So last night mulling this over for hours I think I'm going to lower the fuel pressure from 5 to 4 for todays drive, see if I can get the idle set & not exceed the idle circuit.
I'll rant about it later! Have a good day, I hope I do.
 
K, the drive went well, oil pressures holding around the same levels & when I got home I sat in the driveway in gear for a while to push it, it survived, no stall.

So, before I went I got it warmed up, choke full open, capped the vac line to dist. & already found a NOT right thig, I had vac at that port while idling!
Put my guage on the other side (A/C connection) & mines still reading in that 6 or 7 range.
Lowered the fuel pressure to 4 & nothing seemed to change!
Played with the adjustment screws & not much changed still around 1 turn out.

when I got home I left it idling in the drive way & started messing with the A/C, still had some freon & with that wire fixed compressor did run, had enough freon to get the high side up to 175, but low barley over 20, gotta order some more. at least cool air was coming out!

Things I noticed................
The idle sped up when I removed the air cleaner, but later when I put it back nothing changed?
When I put the A/C vac line back on the idle sped up again. A/C was NOT on
Later when I turned it on it did also speed up a bit.
It finally did stall after idling quite a while with the A/C going, not in gear in park!
Finally when I got gas I got quite a bit of air movement when I removed the cap, suction I think, that was towards the end of a 20 or so min. drive? Is that normal or am I looking at vapor lock down the road.
 
You should NOT be building vacuum in the gas tank. You gas tank has 3 fittings, correct? Fuel line, return line and a vent tube. Cars from that era usually have a vented gas cap also.
 
I didn't think that was normal.

Well since the return on this car was vapor return through that charcoal canister to that little tank in front of the gas tank the return from the pickup is capped & the cars return is capped by the inner fender since the carb has nothing to connect it all too.

The easy thing for me would be vented gas cap, would that be enough?
 
Didn't mess with the car today but watched some videos on tuning the carb.
One guy is saying the low vac port is manifold & the high is carb?
that most vacuum advance go on the high port (left looking from rad.)

Now the book says left for emission control & right for non emission control.

I'd swear when I first put them on there was no vac on the right, so I hooked up the distributor there.
The other day there was suction there (on the right at idle)

Am I on the wrong side?

Maybe that's part of my problem?
 
The easy thing for me would be vented gas cap, would that be enough?
Easy solution, but not always easy to find a vented cap that fits. You may be better off putting a small inline filter on one of the capped off lines and let it breathe.
Now the book says left for emission control & right for non emission control.

I'd swear when I first put them on there was no vac on the right, so I hooked up the distributor there.
The other day there was suction there (on the right at idle)

Am I on the wrong side?

Maybe that's part of my problem?
The port you want for your vacuum advance is the one circled in red......
 

Attachments

  • eddy.jpg
    eddy.jpg
    369.8 KB · Views: 0
OK, I start all over with trying to tune it tomorrow after I switch the hoses!

Even so I did have it off & capped when I was tuning, oh well I hope it helps me in some darn way!
 

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top