Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

RUSTY Cuda said:
Wrecker sounds plausible, I didn't think those hooks would fit in those little holes.
I'll try cutting the back before I call in the pro, probably save over 100 if I don't break it!
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The seal should be butyl. Fairly easy to cut out with some piano wire or a removal tool if you're careful - a removal tool can do as much damage as a hammer if you're not paying attention.
Helpful hint: butyl tends to be gummy, even if it's 40+ years old. The colder weather makes it less so, but a little oil as you cut keeps it from re-sticking.
Rear glass, being tempered, is much easier to work with. It can flex a surprising amount, unlike the laminated front glass.
 
Dumb question here, on the 73 the installer ( after screwing it up with a foam strip & goop) it was too high & I couldn't get the molding on, he came back & redid with just the goop & it sailed off to the UK with just a spot of silicone in the back where it leaked a bit after a few years.
was it supposed to have a seal or was that started in 74?
 
OK you posted while I was typing!
We did the other car with piano wire again I don't remember any seal, this car he had the tool & when I hit the top corner I cracked it, lucky this one was trash anyway, then we used some big flat blade on a sawsall & it came out quicker but cracked a bunch more!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
OK you posted while I was typing!
We did the other car with piano wire again I don't remember any seal, this car he had the tool & when I hit the top corner I cracked it, lucky this one was trash anyway, then we used some big flat blade on a sawsall & it came out quicker but cracked a bunch more!
Click to expand...
I've been lucky at times doing laminated glass. other times not so lucky.
Luckily, a good friend owns a glass shop. He's my first call,every time. ;)
 
As stated, the removal tools suck. I've removed quite a few with piano wire, an extra hand and a lot of patience. Don't get aggressive with pressure on the wire to help prevent frequent breakage. Slow & steady.
 
yeah laminated glass is a serious game of patiance..but all the rest can take HUGE hits before breaking, still when hunting used glass or removeing what i happen to have theres always a folded lip on the inside of the car..some cars its pretty thin cut that off and the whole sheet will pop out, dodge truck windshields can be saved this way with ease but the seal at the dash is HUGE and is basicly 2inches of rubber trim

for uber fragile glass IE 50s super curvy, or highly expensive.. ill cut the inner lip, then cut all 4 corners on the outside (glass to body corner) as well this allows the seal to fold and fall off as the glass comes out
 
A bit nippy out there today, windy to so I didn't last too long, I did manage to get most of the rear seat pan scrapped of, then I went around to the windshield frame, that stuff caught fire pretty quick but I found just heating the scrapper was good enough, got all the heavy stuff off! 20211219_133345.jpg20211219_135142.jpg
I'll try not to bore you guys with pics of every section, there all gonna look pretty much the same, I'll wait for a milestone & update at that time.
Wonder how full of that gunk the bucket will get bout 1/3rd full now. 20211219_134955.jpg
 
Also pounded out those frame rails, bottom one came out pretty flat...........20211219_133325.jpg
The top was so distorted I'll have to grind off some of the flap to get it flat & fill in towards the back.........20211219_133308.jpg
 
Just remember Randy half of what I do I make up myself & about half of that fails!
Much better out there today, same temp but no wind, I was quite comfortable working out there.
So I got the rear floor pans close & a little of the front seat pans scraped then I ran out of acetylene & could not find my mapp gas I swear I had laying around.
Trip to the supply house tomorrow!
So on a pretty clean spot I tried some solvent, there's still a lot of black goup after I scrape, it does cut it but very messy I'll see how the wire wheels do in the next few days.
the good news is most of the metal that was coated is in great shape! 20211220_145632.jpg
 
maybe youll have better luck than ive had, but i found the wire wheels to just cut n smeer whatever remains....however i also found in some cases aceton will remove the remainder
 
69, I did ok with them (below) on the thin stuff, it took a while where I missed the undercoat completely


Today I ran down to my old A/C supply house to get the tank refill, got that & 2 rolls of duct tape, tried to PU a backup sump pump & no luck they don't stock em any more, now the last guy who knew me was out to lunch, I think I got charged Sucker price, 15 bucks a roll for the tape & 35 bucks for the refill, I think the tape was 6 & the tank was 15 or 18 just 2 years ago, so either they really went up or like I said, the sucker price!!!

then I put the regulator on & it only shows 1/2 & I ran it to almost empty to finish off the front, I know it was cold out but not that cold.

I then experimented with a cleaning disc, took off the thin stuff good but also removed the paint & showed me how much I missed. then a fairly soft 4" wire wheel, same deal .

I wish I could figure a way to sand blast this, I'll be all winter trying to get this clean & a ton of wire wheels & discs gone thru.

The darker the spot the more undercoat that's left!20211221_151907.jpg
 
what's a needler?
Most of it is off now, I had ordered from eastwood 2 7" cleaning discs & 2 of the 3m red 7" pads, just went on to check the back order & now their saying not till feb.
So I hit amazon & got them ordered, 2 of the fat black pads & a case of 25 of the red ones, with those I can wipe out a lot pretty quick, so the new plan is to work the wire wheels & small discs in all the tight spots till they get here (they said by the 24th)
I may get one or 2 corners done by then!
 
why not just blast it?....i mean..you saw what i did to do an engine right?

if it were me...id go pickup some pvc pipe n fittings..spend mayber 30$?..grab some duct tape, and some clear plastic as well as a big roll of packing cling wrap
duct tape the heavy plastic to the car and then out to a small framework of pvc, than the "working side" use the cling...get creative with the bucket and cardboard and you could even rig up a catch n recycle in short order
 
My tent would give me most of the frame work, I do have a bunch of tarps & the pipes I saved from the last tent the problem is if it rains or snows the whole deal goes bad fast, I'm gonna play with the wire wheels till the pads come, maybe my carpel tunnel from the drill will convince me to set it all up?
 
thing is you dont need to go huge,,,and useing anything clear means visability goes up!
if your worried about snow id setup 3x3x height of car
 
You convinced me, but it did get a bit dark in there I had nothing clear
Decided to try & set up for blasting this nastiness , started hanging tarps all around, using my tent frame mostly , a little of the car & rotis in the front & rear.
The wind plays havoc with it, I'll see what's left standing (or hanging) tomorrow ??

Still gonna be slow going, guess I'll keep at it till we get snow, then I have to get it down quick.

Anywho here's my homeless shelter...............
20211222_113329.jpg
Ready to blast..............
20211222_113315.jpg
So here's the little that's kinda done after 2 full buckets & 2 cleanups, the cleanups take a little longer in the bigger area but not too much got away (I think)
down low in the rear of trunk & frame rail was the worst rust area, so I hit that & then tried a bit of the rear seat pan, even the easy parts take quite a bit of time, lets see how the weather treats me after the holidays! 20211222_150008.jpg
 
Used a piece of sheetmetal in the small set up, this time I have tarps down, put drop cloths on top of that, then I pick up the drop cloths one by one piling the media in one spot, then I vacuum around the edges & then hit the pile, takes about 1/2 hour .
 
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