Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

yeah no kidding, i mean i kinda liked the eastwood stuff back in early 2000, and i do like the "zero rust" for stuff youll never see like the back of bumpers, and wheel wells but use it as a "top coat" over epoxy on everything but bumpers
 
All I'm doing is the jack base & mechanism, it looked really nice on the other jack & it is tough stuff?
The price is plain CRAZY

On to the rotis. one side I got a piece of heater hose on, it's snug but still moves around a bit, the other side I was pounding & bashing & just could not get the second side in with the hose in there, it slops around pretty bad.
View attachment 20211212_140411.mp4
so I get out from under there & see this............20211212_140348.jpg
Looks like the darn thing is cocked!
So stick an arm on, mann what do I do with this!!!!!20211212_140608.jpg
But in looking at the pic I notice the sleeve has a bend in it, went back out & flipped it over & it lines up a lot better, now I just have to figure out the bolt setup, there is a gap between the two mounting sides & the sleeve in the frame, maybe I can get some washers in between to fill the gap, that might help a bit!
 
Up front I put a couple of layers of green tape on the bracket to try & save my paint?
got that on & centered the two insert mounts on the main bar, once the other side comes the front should be ready to go! 20211212_132130.jpg
 

Post by 1rustycuda on 3 minutes ago​

The parts for the rotis arrived today. I open it up to check for a proper set & it's 2 the same pieces again, I'm like wow now I have 4 drivers side, so I run out to the garage & check against the ones I had, whew, they are the other side, so now I have 2 good sets, gotta try & sell on set & get a few bucks back!
 
Well it's all hooked up, I think a little more engineering should have gone into adapting this rotis to a mopar, the rear adaptors make me nervous & then the arms that pick them up are way out on the end of the bar, there's 2 locking bolts, only one is actually on the bar, the inner bar only goes to the blue line I made, same on both sides.
after the roris was hooked up I could not move the adaptors so maybe they will not move when I spin it? 20211215_170206.jpg20211215_123623.jpg
 
In the front the arms are right to the end of the main bar. I brought the front up a bit, it's just off the jackstands. 20211215_123557.jpg
brought the good fender in the garage & managed to get that hung out of the way, running out of hanging places. 20211215_140957.jpg
& finally made a few clean spots on the heat shields, not even sure if these will ever go back on the car?
20211215_141111.jpg
 
id probably mod the shit out of the rear stuff if its spooking ya, the front tho looks fairly solid

hell if your worried about the adaptors slipping just drill a hole thru for a "pin" bolt
 
Good day today, my friend came over & helped me remove the doors & trunk lid, then we started lifting the car, somehow got lucky on the center of gravity, once it was up she spun pretty easy, no adjustments necessary, once in a while you catch a break! 20211216_150541.jpg
In the back I threw a jack stand under those arms that were half way on the main bar!

So now I have to deal with this mess, this will take a while. 20211216_150616.jpg
& the last of the rust repairs, the center of the trunk........20211216_150653.jpg
& the bottom of the drivers door................20211216_150754.jpg
 
the floor doesnt look too bad honestly...looks about as bad as ive ever seen out this way

as for the door...i wont even muck with doors like that any more...opting to find another one...the sheer amount of time and effort to fix rotten doors always spirals out of control
 
The other car was worse I did pick up a drivers door for that, but now all I have is time & down there is doesn't have to be perfect, I will settle for solid, with all those curves & levels I'll probably just do it in strips?
 
Three pieces. Make them fit as neatly as possible without pulling on the outer skin.
If you're lucky, you should be able to fold back the factory lip on the skin, if not, just trim them back and weld in new when the inner is done.

A car hanging on a spit makes me all tingly. ;)
 
So I went from really digging to find something to do to an overload of a million things to do!
checked the jack stand I put under the arm, still 1/8" of clearance, I guess if the wheels sink a bit that will settle right on it, or if the one locking bolt on each side doesn't hold that will catch it.20211217_152925.jpg20211217_152934.jpg
 
My friend was over again & brought his glass removal tools, now he's pulled a lot odf glass over he years & He helped me do the other cuda, this one was tough, I'm so happy it was already cracked because I started another crack in the corner & but the time it was out it was a giant spider web of cracks, think I'm gonna hire a pro for the rear, that is a good piece???
the good news is only one small rust hole under all that mess! 20211217_152815.jpg
 
Got a little of the undercoating off, top rear frame pail & a little test spot under the rear seat pan, it was really thick there.20211217_152902.jpg
Trying to think of what could do this, it's on both sides of the rail in the rear just before it bends up into the wheel well?
???
???
?? 20211217_153604.jpg20211217_153553.jpg
I'll pound em back down & weld up the cracks, but that is really weird to me!
 
I know color is hard to gauge in picks, you guys had me nervous, when the windshield came out there were a few spots with pristine paint, I'm assuming the sun never shined under all that goop to fade it, the color looks dang close to me, what say yee ? 20211217_153827.jpg20211217_153848.jpg20211217_153853.jpg
 
Trying to think of what could do this, it's on both sides of the rail in the rear just before it bends up into the wheel well?
???
???
??
At some point in its' life the rear was on a wrecker where it was hooked to the frame rails instead of the rear axle, like it should've been.
 
looks like a perfect match

and yeah it was on a wrecker with a Y hook n winch

as for the rear glass, unless for some reason your trying to save the seal, just cut the seal around the inside and then it just pops right out zero effort.....i typicaly cut them as i know ill be doing a new seal....and every shop will REQUIRE a new seal to install sooooooo
 
Wrecker sounds plausible, I didn't think those hooks would fit in those little holes.
I'll try cutting the back before I call in the pro, probably save over 100 if I don't break it!
 
Got a little of the undercoating off, top rear frame pail & a little test spot under the rear seat pan, it was really thick there.View attachment 23207
Trying to think of what could do this, it's on both sides of the rail in the rear just before it bends up into the wheel well?
???
???
?? View attachment 23209View attachment 23208
I'll pound em back down & weld up the cracks, but that is really weird to me!
J-hooks and a tow truck operator not paying attention...
 

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