Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Well that didn't go well, He put the regulator in & no different, turned it off & the regulator leaked, so he doesn't even know if it was working. So I go to the gas station to fill it up & the gauge is also off!
Gonna order another regulator from summit this time, NOT a mr gasket (that's what leaked) & try again here.
I'm starting to lose it with this car!

Now I have to see if I can calibrate the gauge!
 

Attachments

  • 20241129_112349.jpg
    20241129_112349.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 0
I do like that price, but at this point my nice metal line to the carb has already been cut up & if I can avoid cutting up more for now I'll stick with trying the regulator.
If you had chimed in a day or 2 earlier I would have done that first, timing is everything & I have none but bad timing!
I do have a return line in the car, (hooked up to nothing really, charcoal canister for looks) I could conceivably use that my fuel sending unit has a return line, just have to run it from the seperator at the tank over to the stub on the sender & cap off the seperator
I'm calling summit monday to pick their brains & see what options I have on the regulator & adjustable rockers just in case!
 
Be sure to mention to tech support the idea that the rockers are causing a rich condition at idle . Maybe they know something I/we don't.
 
Well I have to see if the guy (or gal) is patient enough to listen to the whole story.

Steve (my tech) said he mostly saw that problem on chevies that had cams installed & the guy didn't adjust the rockers after install, how that translates to mopar I don't know?

In all the similar problem posts I read through no one ever mentioned that, some did get into cams & lower vacuum.
I think it runs worse now then when I brought it in, but he said he's got the timing way up, just set it by vacuum, you can notice it trying to start it.
Since it's here now & I'm running out of weather I will pull a valve cover, see if I can spin the push rods after a run, hopefully before they bleed down (see I'm picking up little parts of this stuff)
When the regulator comes get that in, reset the timing in the 15 range & see what comes out of the exhaust & if I have good response from the idle mixture screws.

I did at least goose it once on the way back from the gas station & it too off nice.

Now another dumb question, could I need a valve job on he heads, would worn valves cause issues like this?
Damn I don't need another can of worms to wade through1
 
Last edited:
checked the plugs today, now I know he cleaned them but not sure how long ago, Most that would be on them was a short test drive by them after the alignment & my trip around the block to the gas station with a really short goose on the way home, Not completely thick black coating as before.
most looked like this....................20241130_143704.jpg20241130_144200.jpg20241130_144526.jpgThe worst was front passenger side, some black on the center point? 20241130_145859.jpgWhen I get up the courage I'll try his push rod test.
Depressing sights. my beautiful metal fuel line!20241130_152142.jpg& failed new parts, he thinks that the bad igi. control probably took out the pick up coil on the distributor, but didn't like the fact that the cap could be turned a little, so I said just go with another just in case! 20241130_145058.jpg

Got his compression #'s geeze they were in the tank, most in the 120 range & he had one at 90, that's more than a few % for sure!
 
Wow summit doesn't have a tech support line?
But I got lucky by screwing up the order.
First guy did listen to the rocker story & had no idea, so I got all the part #'s to order & after hanging up I realized I forgot the gauge.
So I call back, the holley didn't have the gauge port, the guy turned out to be a mopar guy, so I went through the story again, He said it is possible if the push rods are too long.
So the rocker kit is about 600 & then I would still have to measure the push rods & order those too. He did check my order & my stock rods are 7 .5 so at least I have that. measurement.
Without knowing if the heads or block were ever shaved we can only guess.
There was a ray of hope in the conversation they have shims to go under the shaft they may make up for the decking?

So I ended up with a top street performance reg. 4 1/2 to 9 lbs parts # TSN-JM 1057CA.

This guy also said he has run a number of these carbs over the years & ran em at 6lbs with no problem?
 
Now for the plan of attack, if I get a chance I'll try the push rod slack test in the next few days,
When the parts arrive I will set it at the lowest point, get the timing somewhere between 10 & 15.
open the carb screws to the normalish 1 1/2 turns & see what the heck I have?
 
OK not sure if I'm good to go on my pushrods but I did the test, when I opened it up & checked for spin after sitting 2 days I could spin 6 out of the 8, then I cranked it around to get each spring up & I could spin all of them when the springs were up, I think that's what I was looking for?
At least it was nice & oily in there! 20241203_143846.jpg
So remembering that in my cleanout I found a compression testing gauge, so just for kicks I did a test on no 1, I got 160, much closer to the 170's I got the first time then the #'s he got in the 120's.
That made me feel a little better if I could feel anything good with this car! 20241203_152711.jpg
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
OK not sure if I'm good to go on my pushrods but I did the test, when I opened it up & checked for spin after sitting 2 days I could spin 6 out of the 8, then I cranked it around to get each spring up & I could spin all of them when the springs were up, I think that's what I was looking for?
Click to expand...
I think that's right. The idea was to try to find a valve that should be closed, but wasn't because the pushrod is too long. If you can spin them easily then they're not holding the valve open at all.

RUSTY Cuda said:
He did check my order & my stock rods are 7 .5 so at least I have that. measurement.
Click to expand...
That's how long my factory pushrods were. If they were right from the manufacturer you should be good to go.

RUSTY Cuda said:
There was a ray of hope in the conversation they have shims to go under the shaft they may make up for the decking?
Click to expand...
The lifters will also take that up so long as it's not decked so much it bottoms out the plunger inside the lifter.
RUSTY Cuda said:
So remembering that in my cleanout I found a compression testing gauge, so just for kicks I did a test on no 1, I got 160, much closer to the 170's I got the first time then the #'s he got in the 120's.
That made me feel a little better if I could feel anything good with this car!
Click to expand...
The mechanic might have just counted N pumps and stopped and you went until compression stopped going up. I always do it the go until it stops rising way.
 
That sounds good to me, the regulator is due in tomorrow I'm praying that it will solve the rich idle problem, then I can move on to the dreaded A/C leak, I hated those in my HVAC days, rarely found the small ones, at least with the car it's all in one place!
Well bad weather is coming if the salt goes down the car stays in.

How are you doing with the treatments, are you nearing the end?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
How are you doing with the treatments, are you nearing the end?
Click to expand...
My last treatment was Monday and I go back to work on the 16th.

I visited the uro on Tuesday and on the 17th we get to pull the foley in the AM and visit again in the PM to make sure I'm peeing sufficiently. Inserting a camera was mentioned so I asked if they have a sound proof room for that because I'm a big baby and will be howling.

I won't know how well it worked until March because of the hormone therapy they started for this.
 
Goodies arrived, I hope I can set it up straight thru instead of an ell?
Not sure if I will brave the weather tomorrow to put it in?
Will read the instructions while I chow down! 20241205_173212.jpg
 
Dang, inlet is in the bottom only, Now how do I route the hoses & keep it away from extreme heat , it's got bracket 2 screw holes at the top, but what the heck do I mount it to???????????
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
........, but what the heck do I mount it to???????????
Click to expand...
There's a couple of possibilities. Remove the outlet hose fitting and see if you can hard-line it near the carb inlet. That would keep it rigid enough. Or maybe modify the bracket to utilize an intake manifold bolt. Personally I would prefer the hard-line route.
 
It doesn't say it has to be upright (feed from the bottom) sideways it will be easier to keep it around the same level as the old line. I can probably make a bracket to get from engine height to line height.
An in line piece would make this a lot easier!
When I get out there I will just kinda move it around & see what looks decent & possible?
 
Well I'm not exactly lovin it but it's in, I started just holding it near the hoses to see what might be possible.
in line hose was right on the valve cover & almost starting to kink. 20241206_153206.jpgFlat at least everything was up high?20241206_153122.jpg
Did a little rerouting & bending of the hard line coming up, this is the best I think I can get? 20241206_162228.jpgThere's a blank manifold bolt hole just below the regs bracket, will try & fab something up & use that to get a tad more clearence to the air cleaner20241206_162251.jpg
Wasn't going to start it but I figured lets see if it accomplished anything, so far NO.
My timing light is acting up, & when I finally got it flashing I could not get it to where I could see the timing mark, turned the distrib both directions till it started to stall, that sucked.
Then just for the hell of it I closed off the idle screws, still running with both closed, now I'm not even sure it was in the idle circuit, I'm hoping it was not.
Will ask mark to bring his light tomorrow & see if 2 heads are better than one, I seem to be useless with this shit!
Well if it's reading right I have the pressure down to about minimum on this one. 20241206_163239.jpg
 
Last edited:
That 3rd pic looks like a decent location, and the gauge can be seen. And pressure-wise, you've got it about perfect, looks about 4.3psi. Another possible hurdle eliminated. Only other issues I can think of that could cause rich & rough idle would be vacuum leak or cam profile.
 
The shop had much better vac readings than I had, in the 15 area, not to say that still can't have a leak, but better than my 5 to 10 readings.
The cam is a question, not knowing what's on there, but I don't think it's radical.
I stood behind the car a few minuets my eyes didn't tear up instantly, so that's a tad better than before.

Tomorrow I'll get it warmed up & start the whole process again, Mark is petty good, so I'm hoping for some success?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top