73roadrunner
I'm Famous!
mr340 said:Don't you be looking at another mans "power plant"!!!!!!
I'm jealous![smilie=l:[/QUOTE]
you had plenty of time with him!
72 Challenger R/T/A
- Thread starter gomopar440
- Start date
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
Guys... I'm 6'1" and about 210lbs. There's enough to go around:dance: :xl: :banana: :squirrel:
73roadrunner
I'm Famous!
gomopar440 said:
Flirt
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
kamstra said:
Yup. Got them at the same time as the heads.
IND 440218-C4 B&E Bodies 66-74 440 Block or 62-65 440 Block with INDY 440-SR & 440-1 Heads, Step 2" Primary, 2 1/8" Secondary, 3 1/2" Collector (Ceremic Coated) $765.00
For the WP info heres a linky if you dare to to tread over to the dark side... http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=2019727&Searchpage=1&Main=1977217&Words=+gomopar440&topic=&Search=true#Post2019727
I hope I dont get banned for posting that link here...[smilie=2:
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BB71Challenger
comparing distributors and
so how was the quality of the 440source parts? what did the machine shop think of the parts? what compression ratio did you go with? nice to see you making so much progress so fast. good luck with the rest of it :clap:
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
I like the 440 Source stuff but I need to address a few issues with a couple of parts that don't quite work together well.
The Billet Main Caps and studs required modifying the rear main seal retainer to allow the retainer to fit. I had to file about 3/8" from the pan rail edge where it meets the #5 main cap. Not too hard to do but it causes the two pan bolt holes to become opened on the side facing the main cap. The ARP bolt kit for the billet main caps also sticks up enough to cause interference with the oil pan sealing edge. It holds the oil pan about 1/4" away from the block at the rear edge.
The only other problem I ran into is the timing chain set. I got the one with the Torrington Roller bearing since I was planing to run a roller cam at the time I ordered it. Well I selected a nice Hydraulic cam instead. It should still work according to the website. When I installed it the cam gear is out of alignment with the crank gear by about 1/4". Needless to say, the chain isn't going to work well with that kind of a mismatch. I may just try to swap it out for the double roller gear drive setup instead if the set will only work with a roller cam. I didn't think they would be that much different though.
CR is supposed to be 10.5:1 on the Ross pistons but I noticed I have the pistons slightly above deck at TDC. Less than the thickness of the head gasket but I was still supprised to see that considering I have closed chamber heads. I'll have to do some measuring the next time Im up there to make sure everything is going to work together happily.
My progress on the car is kinda like Jester... Kept in the dark most of the time and then everything comes together in a few quick spurts.
The Billet Main Caps and studs required modifying the rear main seal retainer to allow the retainer to fit. I had to file about 3/8" from the pan rail edge where it meets the #5 main cap. Not too hard to do but it causes the two pan bolt holes to become opened on the side facing the main cap. The ARP bolt kit for the billet main caps also sticks up enough to cause interference with the oil pan sealing edge. It holds the oil pan about 1/4" away from the block at the rear edge.
The only other problem I ran into is the timing chain set. I got the one with the Torrington Roller bearing since I was planing to run a roller cam at the time I ordered it. Well I selected a nice Hydraulic cam instead. It should still work according to the website. When I installed it the cam gear is out of alignment with the crank gear by about 1/4". Needless to say, the chain isn't going to work well with that kind of a mismatch. I may just try to swap it out for the double roller gear drive setup instead if the set will only work with a roller cam. I didn't think they would be that much different though.
CR is supposed to be 10.5:1 on the Ross pistons but I noticed I have the pistons slightly above deck at TDC. Less than the thickness of the head gasket but I was still supprised to see that considering I have closed chamber heads. I'll have to do some measuring the next time Im up there to make sure everything is going to work together happily.
My progress on the car is kinda like Jester... Kept in the dark most of the time and then everything comes together in a few quick spurts.
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BB71Challenger
comparing distributors and
what are you planning to do about the clearance problems? is it an aftermarket oil pan or the stock one?
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
If you look closely at the #5 main cap and rear seal retainer area you can see what I'm talking about. And in case you're wondering this pic was taken before I torqued the mains down. They actually fit better than they look in this pic but it does show the affected area better anyway. The yellow arrows point to the nuts that are causing most of the problem. Not the recessed rear seal bolts, those are fine. The red arrow is pointing to the hump on the main cap that is still sticking up about 1/8" above the oil pan rail mating surface. The green arrows point to the oil pan bolt hole area that had to be filed back to clear the now taller main caps.
Most likely I'll need to have the #5 main cap machined to recess the nut and washer on the studs. That will still leave waaaay more steel on the cap the stock cap had. Then I may have to shorten the studs on that cap or just find shorter ones. I'm going to look into the upgraded rear main seal piece from Indy too. It's supposed to seal better then the stock piece. I don't know how it'll fit with the larger #5 main cap though.
The oil pan is stock and only temporary until I find a wide high capacity one. I plan on lowering the car about 2.5" so I don't want to use a deep sump pan. I'm trying to find something like a circle track pan but not biased towards just one side. I'm looking for a better pickup and a new dipstick to go with it. The original exhaust manifolds (they still had the Y-pipe connecting them) tore the dipstick off the block when they were removed.
BTW: The machine shop guy said the pieces were nice but he preferred the US made stuff (that he sells for lots more $$$
) so he wouldn't say anything more than that about it.
Most likely I'll need to have the #5 main cap machined to recess the nut and washer on the studs. That will still leave waaaay more steel on the cap the stock cap had. Then I may have to shorten the studs on that cap or just find shorter ones. I'm going to look into the upgraded rear main seal piece from Indy too. It's supposed to seal better then the stock piece. I don't know how it'll fit with the larger #5 main cap though.
The oil pan is stock and only temporary until I find a wide high capacity one. I plan on lowering the car about 2.5" so I don't want to use a deep sump pan. I'm trying to find something like a circle track pan but not biased towards just one side. I'm looking for a better pickup and a new dipstick to go with it. The original exhaust manifolds (they still had the Y-pipe connecting them) tore the dipstick off the block when they were removed.
BTW: The machine shop guy said the pieces were nice but he preferred the US made stuff (that he sells for lots more $$$
) so he wouldn't say anything more than that about it.Attachments
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gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
Not much of an update here but it's still progress towards the goal so...
I just picked up a set of '70 headlight bezels in driver condition on Egouge tonight (yesterday??? Damn I'm up late). Heres the linky:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4593919332&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
It was going for $150 and at 45 sec I bid and was able to keep high bid even though the guy came back and tried to out bid me afterwards. I've been seeing restored bezel sets going for $600-800 on Ebag lately
if your needing parts give me a shout before you get e-gouged, i might just have what you need or be able to locate it quick. keep on keeping on.
if your needing parts give me a shout before you get e-gouged, i might just have what you need or be able to locate it quick. keep on keeping on.
mr340
I don't always drink beer, but when I do
:dance::dance::clap:BB71Challenger said:nice to see you are forging forward. are the 70 and 71 bezels the same? i have a couple of sets of 71 bezels if i would have known i could have got you a set, if they are the same anyway. hell i would have even held off on the liquid foam this time
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
Thanks for the offer BB, I'll keep that in mind. The 70 and 71 are different. the 70's are flat across the face and are squared off where they meet the center grill. The 71's have two horizontal ridges across the middle and are rounded to follow the headlight contour near the grill.
BB71Challenger
comparing distributors and
i had to pull one of my extras out to see what you were talking about. i got it now. i have never noticed the difference before but both extra sets have the 2 ridges on them. well its nice to know that all 3 sets of bezels i do have go to the year of car that i own. hell you could make it a hybrid with a 71 grille and bezels and 70 taillights. i have a couple of extra 71 grilles too lol.
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
I could, but I like the grill and tail lights best on the 70. Thats why I'm switching everything over from 72. I'm not a big fan of the 72-74 type grill, tail lights and side markers. If I had gotten a 71 instead of the 72 I would have left all this stuff alone. The 71 grill and tail lights look good the way they are. I wouldn't want to mix the grill and tail lights up between the 70 and 71 though. The way the 70 carries the grill opening and the tail lights all the way across the front and back works well. The same goes for the way the 71 has the split grill and tail lights. But to mix them up like a 70 grill on a 71 or a 71 grill on a 70 seems to me it would detract some from the overall look. It would loose some of it's asymmetrical symmetry...if that makes any sense.
BB71Challenger
comparing distributors and
lol i was only kidding, cmon elvy i wazz onlay keddinggggg! im with you on the sad mouth challengers. i like the 72-74 cuda tails and grille but in no way am i fond of the sad mouth challengers of 72-74 :dgt:
gomopar440
Livin' my life...one gas station at a time.
Not enough, that's for sure.
I still need to get the rest of the sheet metal. The trunk floors, pass outer wheel house, pass trunk drop off and the pass quarter. The problem is lately I've been sending the money everywhere but to the parts I need. The holidays put a hurtin on the budget for me. I was able to get a set of '70 headlight buckets but those won't make the unibody solid again. I may have to delay coming back over to PA so I can get the rest of the sheet metal there first. My wife wants to come over with me so that'll double the cost of the airline tickets and leave less to put towards the car.
I'm still having to toss money at my island beater car plus that airplane thing I've got going now too... But this is a Mopar board so I'll spare you the gory details.
I still need to get the rest of the sheet metal. The trunk floors, pass outer wheel house, pass trunk drop off and the pass quarter. The problem is lately I've been sending the money everywhere but to the parts I need. The holidays put a hurtin on the budget for me. I was able to get a set of '70 headlight buckets but those won't make the unibody solid again. I may have to delay coming back over to PA so I can get the rest of the sheet metal there first. My wife wants to come over with me so that'll double the cost of the airline tickets and leave less to put towards the car.
I'm still having to toss money at my island beater car plus that airplane thing I've got going now too...
But this is a Mopar board so I'll spare you the gory details.