72 Challenger R/T/A

The hub should center itself in the crankshaft, but it shouldn't be tight. It sounds to me like you don't have the converter seated all the way into the front pump. While installing the converter into the trans, you should be turning it until it clicks into place. Keep turning until it clicks in a second time. There are two sets of tangs it needs to engage. Once it's fully seated in the pump it should actually have to come forward a scosche to meet up with the flexplate. My suggestion is that you stop, pull the engine back out, and start over with seating the converter. If you try to pull the assembly together with the bolts, you will break something--most often the converter nose. There's no fixing that, you just junked the converter. The other option is to break the front pump, which you may or may not realize is an issue until the transmission is already smoked.

Also, since you're seemingly coming over from Chevyland, it's worth noting at this point: unless you have a full-manual, reverse-pattern valve body you absolutely, positively must have some kind of throttle-pressure (kickdown) linkage installed. That is the only way the hydraulic pressure in the transmission is regulated. If you don't have it, your line pressure will remain at idle-speed level and your transmission will burn up in less than 100 miles. If you haven't got anything arranged yet, Bouchillon Performance makes cable kits which save the hassle of monkeying with the "all or nothing" factory setups that aren't going to work easily with your engine. Adjust the linkage/cable so that at full throttle, the lever arm on the transmission is all the way at the end of its travel (toward the back of the car). Some guys just wire the lever all the way back for full line pressure all the time, but your upshift points will be commanded at full-throttle levels all the time. You'll never hit 3rd gear in town unless you've got stupid-deep gears (4.88 or numerically higher).

Another Mopar transmission foible: If you value your lower extremities (thinks like feet, legs, your trouser trout) don't ever, ever do a burnout in first gear. Use first only to get the tires spinning, then shift it into second immediately. Do a Google Image search for "torqueflite explosion" and you'll see what first-gear burnouts will accomplish for you. I don't know if you've run your engine on a dynamometer, but if you're running 500HP or more you really should have a bolt-in sprag. It's a lot cheaper than a power wheelchair.
 
Sorry guess I should have explained it better I just put the tc up to the flex plate not while in the transmission and it really has to be worked to get it together just wondering if the tolerances are suppose to be that tight the 727 I had built is a full manual value body its bulit to handle roughly 850 hp the motor won't push that much but I like to over build
 
If it's aligned, it should slide in easily. Yes, it centers in the crank but it's not supposed to be a press fit either. It should go together as easily as a manual trans going into a pilot bushing. You might want to use some Scotch-Brite or emery cloth to clean up both the hub and the crank bore thoroughly, after you check both for burs or imperfections, of course.
 
I used a red scotch when I was first messing with it. It is definitely tighter than it probably should be I'll look at it again tonight
 
Just remember: any mark or ding in the area of that register ring on the back of the crank may well have deformed the bore ever so slightly... even if you can't see it, it could still be there. Crank was dropped, hit with a hammer, any of that stuff. It happens.
 
Well it went together I used some 120 grit sand paper it didn't take to much it spins with little resistance. Got the transmission mated, starter mounted and put the headers on I saw some guy put the engine all together and some how he was able to put it in through the top so I thought I would give it a shot I'm not to worried about scratching stuff its going to be a driver I will say damn its a tight fit lol lost some paint on the headers but nothing worth crying about
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150902_110304777.jpg
    IMG_20150902_110304777.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 64
  • IMG_20150902_120053812_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20150902_120053812_HDR.jpg
    2.9 MB · Views: 62
  • IMG_20150902_122410836.jpg
    IMG_20150902_122410836.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 63
  • IMG_20150902_154237148.jpg
    IMG_20150902_154237148.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 65
  • IMG_20150902_201225783.jpg
    IMG_20150902_201225783.jpg
    3.2 MB · Views: 63
You probably figured this out already, but it's much easier to drop a big-block into that car without the headers on it. :D

Glad you got the converter issue sorted, and that it was minor. :dance:
 
Yea it probably would have been:p it wasn't to bad though thanks for the help too!!
 
No problem! Any time... that's why we're here. Well, that and being silly much of the time. :dance:
 
Belts and pulleys

I started putting all the accessories on ie power steering alternator Realised all the brackets I have are for small block so I ordered new ones put the PS on it was simple went to put on the alt but I guess I have the wrong one the mounts are not at 12 and 6 o'clock they are at 12 and 4 so I got bought a turnbuckle tensioner so it should still work I hope!? My biggest concern is that the belts are looking like they won't line up its got that electric water pump and every crank pulley I have doesn't line up I've got 4 different ones maybe they are all small block too? And how is the belt on the PS routed? it has to go over the water pump cause it would hit the WP housing going straight to the crank any ideas? The only way i see it working is one belt over the top around the ps, alt and crank. I was going to post some pics but it won't let me right now so I'll put some up later.
 
Pics

:doubt:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150911_233242926.jpg
    IMG_20150911_233242926.jpg
    2.6 MB · Views: 44
  • IMG_20150911_233252898.jpg
    IMG_20150911_233252898.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 42
  • IMG_20150911_233258512.jpg
    IMG_20150911_233258512.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 41
The alternator brackets you've got are just chrome versions of the original parts. The choice of alternator has me scratching my head, though.

The only solutions that come to mind are
A) Forego the electric water pump,
B) Use the ugly-ass AC idler arrangement, which would also reduce the number of thrown belts you'll undoubtedly have with the routing shown,
C) Find one of the less-common crank pulleys with the very-small diameter on the inside groove and the standard-diameter outer groove, and find a smaller diameter PS pulley while you're at it (I don't even know if that would work, since the engine being installed makes it impossible to determine the angles involved),
D) Convert the car to manual steering.
 
Battery location

Well i planned on mounting the battery in the stock location but it won't work with the aluminum 4 core radiator and fan shroud. So what do you do trunk, passenger compartment, I thought about it a lot I didn't want to have to run cables to the back I've done it in a Chevelle before and had to use double 0 cable to make it work and use a sealed box I just don't want to go through that again. Another idea under the dash but I would need a sealed box vented to the outside again and it really kills the foot room. option 3 which i decided to take, under the fender in the pass front it has plenty of room and hides alot of wiring which i like so I used some 2x1 rectangular tubing to make up a place to mount the battery then bolted it to the bumper mount
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150917_122901483.jpg
    IMG_20150917_122901483.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 35
  • IMG_20150917_122919574.jpg
    IMG_20150917_122919574.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 36
  • IMG_20150917_122929815.jpg
    IMG_20150917_122929815.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 37
  • IMG_20150917_190344266.jpg
    IMG_20150917_190344266.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 36
I would've gone with the trunk, personally. Yeah, it's a hassle but it helps both the center of mass and load distribution. Batteries are heavy. Those cars that use the mounting under the rear seat (a la Buick LeSabre) have it placed the best from a handling standpoint.
 
She is alive!!!

Well she is up and running!!! Man she sounds mean and the car shakes like a mad man:giggedy: Now just a bunch of little stuff getting everything together and working right and finishing up the interior, wiring harness has been a joke should have thrown out the ez wiring harness that came with the car and got a nicer setup. I had a bad ignition switch in the column that through me off for awhile it would try to start then as soon as you let off on the key it would kill the power to the coil so new switch and she runs. The fiberglass front end has made it a pain with grounds and blinker problems but I finally got it figured. Does anyone have measurements on fender mounted blinkers? I've got a set I want to put on but not sure where to punch the hole through on the top. I've got a video clip of her running but it won't load I'm guessing the site only does pics
 
Pics

[smilie=i:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20151012_160347520.jpg
    IMG_20151012_160347520.jpg
    3.4 MB · Views: 40
  • IMG_20151012_160339673.jpg
    IMG_20151012_160339673.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 41
  • IMG_20151012_160333927_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20151012_160333927_HDR.jpg
    3.4 MB · Views: 40
Does anyone have measurements on fender mounted blinkers? I've got a set I want to put on but not sure where to punch the hole through on the top.
Well, I have an original fender but it's cut for the '73-up fender-mount indicators. Do you have those, or the early style (1970-'72)? They mount differently and in slightly different locations.

Glad to hear you've got it running! :dance:
 

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top