What are you working on?
- Thread starter Stretch
- Start date
Diplomat_Wagon
Hiding In The Bushes While
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
I got tinas tracker pulled down to the timming set. The marks line up but it's super sloppy. I did a compression test and it has zero compression on any cylinder. I did a leak down test and all the valves are sealing as are the rings. The compression is moving from cylinder to cylinder When shop air is supplied to cyl. #1 it comes out cyl. #2 spark plug hole. When shop are is supplied to cyl. #4 it comes out of the spark plug holes for cyl. #3  aswell as the upper radiator hose.
Not looking good for the Tracker.
As for last night I tore into the front end of my truck. It took me about an hour and a half to strip the front end down and replace both axle U-joints. I need all 4 ball joints, both wheel hub bearings, brake rotors and pads, and the caliper hardwear. Why am I doing the truck in the alley you ask? Well thats because my garage has a '51 buick in it still. I had pulled the front end apart to replace the front springs and king pins. The king pin knuckle needed to be sleeved so the went to the local machine shop. I got them back with out the welch plugs installed. The plugs supplied with the king pin set are way too big. We ordered plugs, I installed them in one spindle and tried to grease the pins. One end takes grease the other does not. I checked the other king spindle befor I installed the welch plugs and it too takes grease on the top bushing but not the bottom. So I sent it all back to the machine shop.
Not looking good for the Tracker.
As for last night I tore into the front end of my truck. It took me about an hour and a half to strip the front end down and replace both axle U-joints. I need all 4 ball joints, both wheel hub bearings, brake rotors and pads, and the caliper hardwear. Why am I doing the truck in the alley you ask? Well thats because my garage has a '51 buick in it still. I had pulled the front end apart to replace the front springs and king pins. The king pin knuckle needed to be sleeved so the went to the local machine shop. I got them back with out the welch plugs installed. The plugs supplied with the king pin set are way too big. We ordered plugs, I installed them in one spindle and tried to grease the pins. One end takes grease the other does not. I checked the other king spindle befor I installed the welch plugs and it too takes grease on the top bushing but not the bottom. So I sent it all back to the machine shop.
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
I told her the same thing but she wants me to pull the head and see. I'll do that but I need to get my truck rolling again. It's dead center in the alley on stands. Not that thats a big deal. Being the last house on a dead end has it's advantages.
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
Man you always have something cool in your garage!
Well I'm always out there so I guess that explans that!
Stretch
Hey! There’s no easy button for a body like this!
Well I finally got the spindles for the '51 Buick (F U Jass!!! ) back from the machine shop for the 2nd time. The damn things wouldnt take greese the first time. Turns out the greese grove in the king pins wasnt cut in the pins far enough and were about 1/4" shy of reaching the zerk fitting. I had the machine shop cut the greese grove to line up and now they take greese just fine. I was finaly able to reassemble the front suspension and brakes.
Now on to the leaky trany tail shaft seal and bad trany mount. I disconnected the rear shocks, panhard bar, and rear springs so I could move the rear axle rearward to disengage the tuorqe tube from the trany. I pulled the tuorqe ball assembly apart and now I just need to clean parts, replace the seal, and figure out how to shim the ball. I have a shim kit but there are no instructions, the FSM just says to shim untill it takes 10 to 25 lbs to move the ball using a fish scale mounted on a 1 inch dowel rod 8 inches away from the ball.
Where do the shims go? There were none in it when I took it apart and its super loose. The ball just flops around. Any one work on one of these before? 68RT, I'm sure you have some insight on this one. Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.
) back from the machine shop for the 2nd time. The damn things wouldnt take greese the first time. Turns out the greese grove in the king pins wasnt cut in the pins far enough and were about 1/4" shy of reaching the zerk fitting. I had the machine shop cut the greese grove to line up and now they take greese just fine. I was finaly able to reassemble the front suspension and brakes. Now on to the leaky trany tail shaft seal and bad trany mount. I disconnected the rear shocks, panhard bar, and rear springs so I could move the rear axle rearward to disengage the tuorqe tube from the trany. I pulled the tuorqe ball assembly apart and now I just need to clean parts, replace the seal, and figure out how to shim the ball. I have a shim kit but there are no instructions, the FSM just says to shim untill it takes 10 to 25 lbs to move the ball using a fish scale mounted on a 1 inch dowel rod 8 inches away from the ball.
Where do the shims go? There were none in it when I took it apart and its super loose. The ball just flops around. Any one work on one of these before? 68RT, I'm sure you have some insight on this one. Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Still waiting on the ones for the '51 Buick?
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
Oh geez, I haven't worked on one of those since I was 17, and that was a loooonnngggg time ago.
A search on-line turned up this thread, which seems quite helpful;
http://forums.aaca.org/f115/help-needed-1950-buick-special-transmission-246064.html
One last thing, it's NOT recommended that you use 90w gear lube to refill it. You need to locate some 140-160w lube
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
OK, scratch the part about gear lube. :doh:
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
Ya never know, it might work better.
That kinda brings back an old memory. Many years ago, during one of the times that my car was down, I borrowed a car from my little sisters boyfriend for the evening. It was a 62 4-door bel air w/6 & a powerslide. The trans leaked so bad you could follow the trail of oil that it left. Money was short & I couldn't afford to buy fresh ATF, so I stopped at a local station and scarfed up some free drain oil to top off the trans. :shifty:
About a week later he stopped by and thanked me for fixing his trans. I asked, "Whatya mean?"
He says that the trans hasn't leaked since I used the car and it shifts better than ever. :huh:
That kinda brings back an old memory. Many years ago, during one of the times that my car was down, I borrowed a car from my little sisters boyfriend for the evening. It was a 62 4-door bel air w/6 & a powerslide. The trans leaked so bad you could follow the trail of oil that it left. Money was short & I couldn't afford to buy fresh ATF, so I stopped at a local station and scarfed up some free drain oil to top off the trans. :shifty:
About a week later he stopped by and thanked me for fixing his trans. I asked, "Whatya mean?"
He says that the trans hasn't leaked since I used the car and it shifts better than ever. :huh:
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I've repaired more than one leaky, slipping automatic with a little DOT3 brake fluid. It swells the seals, just like pouring ATF into a brake system will balloon every rubber part in the system, requiring replacement in that situation. It works like a champ in a transmission, though.