Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Brackets almost done, not a lot of room to mess around in there. 20241207_154240.jpgGot the bends close & had to add another hole on the bottom to eek it over more20241207_154338.jpgVac hoses & wire will be under it. 20241207_154351.jpgIt's close just clears the choke wires. 20241207_155427.jpg20241207_155438.jpgNow I just have to weld the corners & get some paint on it! 20241207_155739.jpgThe gauge is only 1/4" or so off the air cleaner, hopefully when bolted to the motor they will all shake together?
 
Now on to the tune up still not a lot of reaction at the idle screws, but it's running much better.
We set the timing at 10 or 11 BTDC, set the idle to where it doesn't bang into gear too bad & idles ok.
Still doesn't stall when you close the idle screws but we had some vacuum reaction & set them that way, my gauge is still reading the lower #'s 7 or 8 at the constant carb port?
It is definitely running cleaner, after warmed up & I took it around the block there was no smoke at all at the tail pipes.
Before the ride just idiling was a good amount of gray smoke.

Now it's back to the pro to see if I'm at good enough & don't have to worry bout frying my rings?

Oh yea, not too sure about the regulator, yesterdays nice setting went away, when we were bumping the motor it went up to 6. While running it dropped to 3 (the low on this is supposed to be 4 1/2)
Adjusted it while running & turned it in a long way to get back to 4, & then it dropped off again the adjustment is almost burried & in the instructions it say NOT to go all the way in!!!
 
I wouldn't be to concerned about pressure readings. The main things are that it doesn't overpower the floats and cause richness and doesn;t starve for fuel under hard throttle.
 
I think I'm going to back off the adjustment just in case it decides to open up/work again, if it just keeps ending up at 3 it should be ok, gonna do a local test drive tomorrow, once I'm confident nothing will fall out I'll take a short hop on the highway where I can test the kick down & a generous supply of lead foot!
 
Well I guess I can say the test drive went well, nothing fell out & I didn't get stuck!
That's about the best I can say, found out I have no speedometer, which kept me off the main roads, also no good when you have a faulty gas gauge, can't clock the miles!
I heard every noise in the book shakes rattles & rolls, gonna need bigger stereo speakers!
I just stuck the bracket in for the ride & that seems like it will work out.

Will pull the plugs tomorrow & see what they look like, I did at least get one upshift on the tranny, but I don't think I went over 40?

Back in the garage I put a couple of welds on the folds to firm it up, of course after 2 the welder ran out of wire, like everything else I do, at least I did have a backup roll!
20241208_150348.jpg20241208_150359.jpgGot some paint on em, they can go in tomorrow,20241208_160117.jpgThe second one is for the plug wires, I had a wrong size hose from the air cleaner to the breather & that kept the wires up, now I plugged the air cleaner & put in the no tube breather, just back from the breather is a valve cove bolt I can stick the bracket on & get the wires up again. 20241208_160141.jpg
I hope I don't have to take the speedodometer out, I really can't get under there to good without pulling the seat out , Am I ever gonna get to the point where I can say good enough & just drive the dang thing!
 
Oh yea, before the drive I backed out the adjuster on the regulator & when I started it up it went back to the low 4's which was good, but after shut down it bled off, should the floats keep that pressure up?
 
Some regulators are what's called "bypass" type. Not knowing exactly what yours is, it may be a bypass designed to bleed off pressure after shut down. As long as it maintains a steady pressure while running, I wouldn't be concerned. But I would check for pressure variance between low idle and high idle. The ideal is to maintain a steady pressure at all RPM's.
 
Nothing great on the car, just putzed a bit, I did crawl under & feel the tranny connection, could barely reach it but it felt tight, somehow managed to get under the dash at least enough to see the connection at the speedo, couldn't reach it but I yanked on the cable a couple of times & it feels tight & didn't flop around up there.
Looked thru my spare parts, I think I already chucked my extra speedo, damn this sucks!

I put in the extra brackets, cleared the air cleaner ok & got the wires up off the valve cover! 20241209_152425.jpg20241209_152503.jpg20241209_152525.jpg
 
Been putting off looking into the speedometer, tried to google if I can get it out the front without removing the dash with no luck, any suggestions on where to start to find out why she's not working?
I think at minimum I would have to remove the seat for me to really get under the dash.
 
First test I would do, disconnect from trans. Clamp cable end into electric drill. You'll need someone to either watch the speedo or engage the drill. Look for needle movement. If yes, gear in trans either bad or not engaging. If no movement cable or head is bad. Hope for cable bad.
 
68R/T said:
You'll need someone to either watch the speedo or engage the drill
Click to expand...
Or if alone you can put your phone on the seat and use the video camera to record the speedo while you spin the cable.

I would be surprised if you can't get the cluster out the front of the dash if necessary.
 
I just happened to open it - he just posted it like 1/2 hour before.

The other day he posted one about Aces FI and next day someone had posted a question about that system on FABO.

Weird coincidences.

FWIW there is nothing wrong with any FI system that a carb won't fix.
 
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