Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Pretty windy out there today so I took brake from blasting & put some seam sealer on, got most of the interior done & finished off the engine bay, technically if I clean the bottom of the frame rails the whole front end could be primed & painted, not sure if I should yet , a long way to go before the rest will be ready??
Guess it depends on the weather & if I run out of things to do. 20211017_144319.jpg
 
Still windy so I put a little extra weight on the tarps & shot away, 2 rounds in I did the cleanup & set up for the 3rd round & went in the house for a quick break, came out to a little rain, good thing I cleaned up first, water & blasters DON'T mix, so I packed everything up & I don't think another drop fell for a couple of hours!
>:(

Would have been close to finished , see how tomorrow goes? 20211018_134944.jpg
 
Marathon day for me was out 10:30 & finally packed up at 4, gotta talk to the boss about combat pay!
So I finished off the bottom section blew some of the media out of the hood framing, quite a bit came out, flipped the hood over & then tackled the stuff I missed. 20211019_135054.jpgNow I have to get it back on the table & work the edges & with a few nice days coming up maybe I can get it all primed up!20211019_160606.jpg
 
i have ZERO love for seam sealer anywhere it can be seen..and would kill for a good replacement
It would drive me nuts to pay $30 per tube for that stuff and end up with a gobbed up mess too. I use liquid nails on recommendation of an old body guy so at least it's cheap. ;)
 
Hmmm I bought it in a quart can, will have to check the bill to see how much I paid, then my friend gave me almost another full can, I have the trunk left & probably more than enough in my can, but I was thinking when I strip the bottom that I will hit all those seams from the outside too, I could never understand letting the water in up to the inside sealer to rot the metal .
 
2 more nice days, good painting weather, I'm thinking of painting the front end (engine bay & under the fenders) the back of the hood & maybe a couple of small parts.
Just worried about destroying all that work as they hang around for another year or so?
So today I laid on my back & cleaned the bottom of the front frame rails (only thing not ready up front) & the rest of the day on the edges of the hood, that was a pain.
Shot a quick coat of self etch primer on those parts.
Z hood!20211020_153542.jpgIn the am I'll heck out what I have to mask off & if all goes well start shooting primer!
 
Another marathon finished the 3rd coat of blue at 4 then almost 2 hours to clean up the mess, I'm gettin too old for this! Thank God I have time with this paint to get the clear on I'll shoot that tomorrow.
There be more blue! 20211021_164440.jpg20211021_164454.jpg20211021_164511.jpgOn this one you can see where the nasty undercoating starts, not looking forward to removing that! 20211021_165509.jpg
 
My friend had one that I used on the first car, he sold it after that, we had been trying to reach the owner for a while & finally got through the other day, he's got covid & really didn't answer if I could rent or buy it, just said it's burried in the back of his garage, we will give it a couple of weeks if that's out I'll start the hunt to buy a new one, I can not do what I plan without one, the bottom will be stripped, make any repairs needed & then painted good ole B5!
 
i mean, you could just make one, theres a few simple cheep designs, hell just modify a couple of engine stands for that matter
 
Not with my non-existent welding skills & my baby mig.
If it comes to it I'll buy one, get the car done & then sell it off, unless I pick up another 'Cuda between now & then!
 
Z clear is on, got 3 coats on all those parts, now I'm wondering if I really need three on these parts, there will be no sanding & buffing needed here?
Resto you out there, how many coats just to seal it off?
It is nice to see though, it makes me think I'm making progress even with the LONG road ahead! 20211022_133030.jpg20211022_133106.jpg20211022_133125.jpgThe bashed in part doesn't look that bad, some of it will be hidden by master cylinder & brake lines, but boy did I beat it up a bit! 20211022_133135.jpg
 
ill let resto chime in but i will toss some recent research out as well as ive been trying to understand the various schools of thought when painting engine blocks and other "hot" parts

while there are arguments for with and without primer we can ignore that in this case, the general agreement however is to stay "light and thin" so the heat can transfer quickly and keep from fading the paint, the thicker it gets the worse the problem with fade and discoloration

id also be hesitant to put that many coats on anything "undercarriage" as the thicker you get the worse the rock chips as memory serves, but maybe modern poly can go thicker and stay flexible?..again ill let resto chime in and clear things up, especialy with the undercarage stuff cause i need a definitive answer on that myself
 
Three coats is for UV and environmental protection, like wind, snow, washing, etc.
That likely won't be an issue underhood or on a chassis.
However, with two component systems like base/clear, one single coat of clear can lead to delamination.
I'd be putting on two coats and calling it done.
 
OK good to know, I can save some there & then I assume if I'm going to sand & buff I should go 4? or 5? coats?
It really depends on if what you're using is a MS clear, or HS.
3 coats is usually the max for HS.
4 or 5 should be ok for MS.
The assumption is that the extra coat or two is sanded off in the cutting steps...
The tech data sheet for your product will be the place to find out for sure.

Don't forget: too thick a final finish, and stone chips may end up as craters.

A good number of custom & high-end painters like to apply 2 or 3 coats, wait till it hardens & out-gasses, then sand the clear flat and apply 2 or 3 more coats before cutting and buffing.
Colour sanding is the terminology.
It's usually done primarily for show cars.
 
OK now I'm really in trouble, what is MS ? HS? I've used a bunch of different clears, on this car I was using 4CR, last order he was having trouble getting it so he sent me TCI 6600 I do see it says 6600 2:1 HS eoro glamour clear.
Also says on the can 2 medium coats, guess I have to read more!
With my skills(or lack there of) I think I'll stick with 3 so I don't burn through on the body stuff!
 
OK now I'm really in trouble, what is MS ? HS? I've used a bunch of different clears, on this car I was using 4CR, last order he was having trouble getting it so he sent me TCI 6600 I do see it says 6600 2:1 HS eoro glamour clear.
Also says on the can 2 medium coats, guess I have to read more!
With my skills(or lack there of) I think I'll stick with 3 so I don't burn through on the body stuff!
Lol! MS & HS just means medium solids & high solids.
HS didn't really exist until all the VOC rules came into play. It just means it's been formulated to be sprayed with less reducer, hence a thicker mixture as-sprayed. There are chemical differences, of course, but that's the gist of it.
Two medium coats... ? I like full-wet coats, but that's just how spray.
 

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