Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress
- Thread starter mopar_man
- Start date
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Hopefully from my lack of tuning skills & the local streets, I know it's gonna be low, but that is rediculas! Rich.
Fishy
Omnipotent Seaweasel
Not by much though!
That thing is costing me a fortune in gas to keep it going between paydays. 
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Filled her up again today, was below half but only took 6 gallons, milage was a little better 7.7 mpg.
What size are these tanks, 16 or 18 gallon?
Forgot to even look at how hi up the guage went, I'll check it in the am,last time it was a tad below the full line.
drove around a bit, no mishaps, getting ready to hit the hiway again , need a mechanic as co pilot though, been collecting spare parts, got the voltage regulator, resistor block,fusible link, gonna get the iginition box & a coil from charger man, he's changing to msd now, clean up the old spare & give it a go! Rich.
What size are these tanks, 16 or 18 gallon?
Forgot to even look at how hi up the guage went, I'll check it in the am,last time it was a tad below the full line.
drove around a bit, no mishaps, getting ready to hit the hiway again , need a mechanic as co pilot though, been collecting spare parts, got the voltage regulator, resistor block,fusible link, gonna get the iginition box & a coil from charger man, he's changing to msd now, clean up the old spare & give it a go! Rich.
71dusterman
Well-known member
18 is what I found on a couple sites.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Yep I'm dense, just bought the operators manuels for both cars.:doh:
since the 74's still in my desk I checked that, 16 1/2 gal.
Thanks for the help guys for some reason I thought 18 also.
So at the latest 7.7 mpg my range is 127 miles,should improve some with proper tuning & if I ever get the car out of town & on the open road!
So maybe it will only be every other gas station! :toot:Rich.
since the 74's still in my desk I checked that, 16 1/2 gal.
Thanks for the help guys for some reason I thought 18 also.
So at the latest 7.7 mpg my range is 127 miles,should improve some with proper tuning & if I ever get the car out of town & on the open road!
So maybe it will only be every other gas station! :toot:Rich.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Plugs were singing a good song, nice tan color on all eight, new ones are in about 2 or 3 weeks, still waiting for time to get together with the 340 bros to go over everything with me, she runs decent, not smookin or burning my eyes out back, but I'm sure I'm off the mark by quite a bit, even have timing questions, I'm at 5 btdc or is that after......... anyway, a lot of posts I'm reading the guys are setting initial at 12 to 14* now is that for cams, I've got a pretty hi lift one in there, but I set timing by the book, so thats where we will start next time out!
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
Depending on the profile of your cam, you could go as much as 15 - 20 deg BTDC. Use a vacuum guage to set the timing for max vacuum, but do not allow more than 32-34 deg total advance. To achieve this you may need to modify the advance stop in the dist.
Before putting all your faith in the timing light, do a quick check of the condition of your timing chain. To do this, pop the dist cap and rotate the crank to only take up the slack that's needed before it moves the rotor. Make note of how much the crank rotates without moving the rotor. If it goes beyond 8 deg., I would replace the chain.
Personally, I have always preferred a method similar to Doc's "Fat friend, big hill" method. As parts wear and you factor in atmospheric conditions, no timing light knows better than the engine itself what timing will work best.
With the engine at full temp, in high gear at slowest speed possible, depress the gas as much as possible without causing a downshift. If it doesn't ping, advance the timing a couple of deg and do it again until it pings, then back it off about 2 deg.........timing is perfect.
Oh, it's best to do this on a road that's not very busy.:doh:
Before putting all your faith in the timing light, do a quick check of the condition of your timing chain. To do this, pop the dist cap and rotate the crank to only take up the slack that's needed before it moves the rotor. Make note of how much the crank rotates without moving the rotor. If it goes beyond 8 deg., I would replace the chain.
Personally, I have always preferred a method similar to Doc's "Fat friend, big hill" method. As parts wear and you factor in atmospheric conditions, no timing light knows better than the engine itself what timing will work best.
With the engine at full temp, in high gear at slowest speed possible, depress the gas as much as possible without causing a downshift. If it doesn't ping, advance the timing a couple of deg and do it again until it pings, then back it off about 2 deg.........timing is perfect.
Oh, it's best to do this on a road that's not very busy.:doh:
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Holy crap, been almost a year since i posted here!
Lifes been pretty crappy for a while, but I'll leave it at that since I don't have 2 hours to type .
So on to the car, finally got the steering issues worked out,my tie rod adjustments are much more even now & the play in the wheel is much less. Found the major squeek thats been driving me nuts, it's the heater box, but have not gotten rid of it yet, tightened the piss out of everything i could see, changes the sound but still there(not a whole lot holding that on) May actually try loosening & see if that does it, She's been pretty reliable in my local rides, haven't really ventured to far from home, haven't had the time to either, so it's not just my woosieness!:naughty:
wipers won't park at all now, started lookin for some new pieces(those off set circles that go onto the motor arm) lots of play in the old ones, metal might be ok, plastic one if forked, i'll get both if i can find em.
So greetings to all the nuts! hope all is well with you guys! Rich.
Lifes been pretty crappy for a while, but I'll leave it at that since I don't have 2 hours to type .
So on to the car, finally got the steering issues worked out,my tie rod adjustments are much more even now & the play in the wheel is much less. Found the major squeek thats been driving me nuts, it's the heater box, but have not gotten rid of it yet, tightened the piss out of everything i could see, changes the sound but still there(not a whole lot holding that on) May actually try loosening & see if that does it, She's been pretty reliable in my local rides, haven't really ventured to far from home, haven't had the time to either, so it's not just my woosieness!:naughty:
wipers won't park at all now, started lookin for some new pieces(those off set circles that go onto the motor arm) lots of play in the old ones, metal might be ok, plastic one if forked, i'll get both if i can find em.
So greetings to all the nuts! hope all is well with you guys! Rich.
It's the little fix-its that keep the hobby fun the hobbyist sane.
If everything worked perfectly the first time, we'd get bored.
You must be enthralled.
Here's something to make you smile. :hula:
If everything worked perfectly the first time, we'd get bored.
You must be enthralled.
Here's something to make you smile. :hula:
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Well I have proved once again I am an idiot, about as dumb as it gets, take a simple little fix it up & turn it into an all day desaster fest! [smilie=f: after breaking that corner of the heater box decided to take it out to verify the squeek & see if a repair can be made to that mounting hook area. Ok that didn't go to bad, but the test drive sucked!..............................................................................................................................................................................................................
SQUEEK still there, removed the kick panel & tightened everything I could get to, STILL there!
So[I] I Crawl under & start shaking stuff, nothing, kick the header flange & there she is, major squeek! thinking it's the flange I roll it up on ramps & get under to tighten the bolts, kick it to see where & no friggen squeek, crap whats different, tightened the bolts anyway & rolled it back down, kick it again & squeeks like a bandit
K time for a break, lots of head scratchin, bout a half a pack a buts & a swift kick in the rear & it hits me:wtf: emergency break was on when up on the ramps!:doh:
So Now I revert back to bumb ass land & start bending the retainer hook thats rubbing on the cross over exhaust pipeNo matter what I do it just drops when you put tension on & rubs on the pipe!:hmmm:
So something kick started my brain(or whats left of it) again & I remember someone telling me the hook goes in from the top not the bottom of the trans mount(now that was a long time ago so I forgive myself for that one) But & it's a big but, just a week or 2 ago when the guy who fixed up my steeriing told me it was hitting there(& a few other places too) told me I said oh yea I was supposed to move that hook to the top, now this is just too much to bear[smilie=l:
So I unbend the hook & put it in from the top & take the dreaded test drive ...............................................:silenced:............................. could this be, no more squeek So I've about had all I can take for one day so I start packin up tools & go to lock up the car & he drivers door window hits the moulding on top, all out of wack, So now I know where that bolt I found on the drivers floor goes, should be as simple as putting one bolt back & resetting that bracket, not with the Rusty one, so now the door has to come apart, messed with it for 2 hours & can NOT get it to line up right, tapped the gap & covered it up fot the night, gonna need some help on this, took forever the first time(with help) So half the friggen interior is apart, heater box is broken, whipers won't park , I think I should just look at the pretty pictures & stay the fuck away from the car!
Tonight was gonna be it's debut at a local cruise in right in my area (like 5 mins from the house) ain't happenen now!:shifty: Rich
damages............
[IMG]http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx223/RustyCuda/heatrebox002.jpg[/IMG]
[/I]
SQUEEK still there, removed the kick panel & tightened everything I could get to, STILL there!
So[I] I Crawl under & start shaking stuff, nothing, kick the header flange & there she is, major squeek! thinking it's the flange I roll it up on ramps & get under to tighten the bolts, kick it to see where & no friggen squeek, crap whats different, tightened the bolts anyway & rolled it back down, kick it again & squeeks like a bandit
K time for a break, lots of head scratchin, bout a half a pack a buts & a swift kick in the rear & it hits me:wtf: emergency break was on when up on the ramps!:doh:
So Now I revert back to bumb ass land & start bending the retainer hook thats rubbing on the cross over exhaust pipeNo matter what I do it just drops when you put tension on & rubs on the pipe!:hmmm:
So something kick started my brain(or whats left of it) again & I remember someone telling me the hook goes in from the top not the bottom of the trans mount(now that was a long time ago so I forgive myself for that one) But & it's a big but, just a week or 2 ago when the guy who fixed up my steeriing told me it was hitting there(& a few other places too) told me I said oh yea I was supposed to move that hook to the top, now this is just too much to bear[smilie=l:
So I unbend the hook & put it in from the top & take the dreaded test drive ...............................................:silenced:............................. could this be, no more squeek
So I've about had all I can take for one day so I start packin up tools & go to lock up the car & he drivers door window hits the moulding on top, all out of wack, So now I know where that bolt I found on the drivers floor goes, should be as simple as putting one bolt back & resetting that bracket, not with the Rusty one, so now the door has to come apart, messed with it for 2 hours & can NOT get it to line up right, tapped the gap & covered it up fot the night, gonna need some help on this, took forever the first time(with help) So half the friggen interior is apart, heater box is broken, whipers won't park , I think I should just look at the pretty pictures & stay the fuck away from the car!Tonight was gonna be it's debut at a local cruise in right in my area (like 5 mins from the house) ain't happenen now!:shifty: Rich
damages............
[IMG]http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx223/RustyCuda/heatrebox002.jpg[/IMG]
[/I]
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
I don't think any of us would ever consider you an idiot. Many of us preferred to make our mistakes earlier in life. You're just a late bloomer. :bwuhaha:
As for the window....it's like I keep reminding Jr., "If you don't take time to do it right, will you have time to do it again?"
For the heater repair, I've done a couple and, if my alzhiemer's hasn't kicked in high gear, I think I used JB Weld for that job. :hmmm:
You're no idiot.
I can see how things like that can be frustrating though.
Look at it this way: you'll never make that mistake again.
You learned something. That makes the day a success.
I can see how things like that can be frustrating though.
Look at it this way: you'll never make that mistake again.
You learned something. That makes the day a success.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
K might even have some jb around, did a smaller repain(same spot) in epoxy & it held up well till I overtightened it to fix a squeek that wasn't even there!
OK, door panels off already, found a couple more bolts that had come a little loose, just when you change one thing back there your screw up 8 others, gonna take a pill before I work on that window AGAIN! Thanks Rich.
OK, door panels off already, found a couple more bolts that had come a little loose, just when you change one thing back there your screw up 8 others, gonna take a pill before I work on that window AGAIN! Thanks Rich.