Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Oh, and as far as the creamy nougat center melting out of your ECM, it may well be a bad ground if it's a 5-pin unit. If that's the case, the ground strap is doing nothing as the circuitry grounds through the "other" side of the 4-terminal "dual" ballast (I think it's 5Ω). The 4-pin ECMs do ground through the case, though, and only require the standard 2-terminal ballast such as that from a points-equipped car.

A 4-pin ballast will work on a car set up for the 5-pin; the opposite is not true.
 
Dr.Jass said:
Oh, and as far as the creamy nougat center melting out of your ECM, it may well be a bad ground if it's a 5-pin unit.
Click to expand...

Seeing as Rusty's Cuda has spent more time sitting than driving. It probably melted during the hot summer while sitting in the back yard. :hmmm:
 
Yip, every time I saw another spot the depression got a little worse & my desire to do anything about it (well if there was any) took a nosedive. Now it's a job the fun is done. I'm thinkin that it will take a full repaint by the time I'm done, no sense leaving any por15 on the skin for something else to pop up, I'm going to look it over real good(someday) took a quick scan underneath while I was doing the rocker, that on a quick look seemed fine, now I'm curious about that front frame rail I did all that welding on, will inspect that next startup. As for the control I'm pretty sure that just happened , pretty sure I would have seen that on any of my charge the battery startups I do at least every couple of weeks. fenders I may just buy repros, or buy em for the 74 & use those on this. hopefully if I get a few bucks from this if it's ever done I can go back to hobby mode for the 74, with a boatload of what not to doos & a little more experience!
 
I've never seen an ECM melt like that, strangely. Stretch's voltage regulator did it, but it happened when a wire shorted. I drove The Black Bitch every day in sweltering Atlanta heat with a flat-black paint job, and the ECM never did that... neither the parts-store replacement on the car when I bought it or the orange box I put on it. I've always found that potting compound to be nearly indestructible. I've tried everything to hollow out one of those modules, including a torch and muriatic acid. The acid had a lot more effect, but it still couldn't get rid of more than about a third of the stuff. It's strange for me to hear it's apparently so common.

You're in a rough spot, Rusty. Too far in to give up, too much done to want to do any more, and not enough there to recover a reasonable amount via a quick sale. I hate it for you, big time.
 
ouch, I hate rust. You did such a good job with this car, it's a shame to see rust bubbling through. Take your time and re-do it. Don't sell the car :)
 
Yea jester, I thought I did, I can blame the por 15 for some of it, the rust I really thought I got it all , the fenders were from the dipping & not E coating, no way to get between the metal layers.(found that out quick with the first hood) I did pull the headlight mounts, guess in hindsight I should have pulled all the framing. good thing I have a bunch of 24 grit grinding discs left, now all I need is a good kick in the butt & get me moving on it!
 
POR 15.... *shudders*

If I had a nickel for every time I've removed that trash from a car, or saw firsthand how the shit had failed to do what it was supposed to, I'd be a well-off man.

Snake Oil. Plain and simple.
 
restoman said:
POR 15.... *shudders*

If I had a nickel for every time I've removed that trash from a car, or saw firsthand how the shit had failed to do what it was supposed to, I'd be a well-off man.

Snake Oil. Plain and simple.
Click to expand...

Exactly how I feel about these "rust sealers"...Only good if you can assure that no moisture...EVER...gets through. If it does then your going to rust out from beneath the POR15...or what ever brand your using...and by the time you realize that there is rust out the metal beneath it is all gone!!

I would rather use a good Epoxy primer, and paint. And in hard to get to places, like seams and lips, I will squirt in a little used motor oil. Once that gets down inside you can be assured the rust demon will be held at bay for a while. I have been doing used motor oil in all the nooks and crannies in my cars for years....works very well in my opinion.

May not be the most "environmentally friendly" method...but you do make lots of pretty rainbows when it rains....;) :D
 
I totally forgot about this stuff, as I often did even when I was working on the LeBaron..

For hard-to-reach places, a company in WI called WK Products makes a product called Seal Out Back Coat. It's not a paint, it's more like an undercoating but it doesn't turn rock hard like the factory garbage did. It's kind of waxy but doesn't need re-application, and it creeps into seams and other impossible-to-apply areas. It's not cheap, but it's well worth it. The body shops around here swear it's the best stuff ever. It uses a special applicator wand, though, and that is pretty damned expensive (it's not a regular "schutz" or undercoating gun). One of my neighbors used some on a rust hole above the wheelwell on an older Chevy C1500 something like 10 years ago, and it hasn't gotten noticeably larger. Mind you, this is a daily driver in road-salt country. He just brushed it on from the back side of the rust hole... no applicator needed. Hell, he didn't even knock the rust off the panel.

This is a small operation; they don't have a website and the jugs don't even have UPC codes on them. Both the Back Coat and their regular undercoating are available in gallon jugs and 5-gallon pails. Last I knew, both products were less expensive per gallon than POR-15 or any of its competition. Their regular undercoating is good, but body shops didn't insist on it like they did the Back Coat.

WK Products
14870 W Signet Ln
New Berlin, WI 53151
(262) 784-2568


If I remember correctly, the guy's name is Warren. He's the owner of the company and will likely answer your call. Tell him Pierre that used to manage the Iron Mountain Auto Value sent you (no, I don't get kickbacks or anything :D ). I haven't talked to him in a long time. He always seemed like a good guy on the phone; I never met him in person.
 
There ya go Doc...that is the perfect stuff!! Can get into the hard to reach areas, and then it will "weep" oily residue for years keeping the rust a bay. Same idea as my used motor oil...but a lot longer between recoats....;)

I was starting to get some wheel well rust on my old 70 Sport fury. This was my daily driver at the time too. So I started hitting the wheel well areas with the used motor oil about every 6 months. The rust never got any worse. Same deal with my old 87 dodge ram D250...box wheel well rust never got any worse either.
 
Hey, I have the same issue with the ECM melting. I kept seeing this stuff like sap on the inner fender below the ECM. Cleaned it up, then few weks later it was there again. This time it left a line down the cowl where it dripped from the back of the ECM. I pulled it off and sure enough the stuff in the back is melting. I haven't replaced it yet but I guess now I'll be checking the ground. I was stumped as to what could cause this.
I think this was also an issue in the past since there is a wad of something under the last coat of paint in that same spot
 
Still works, starts up every 2 weeks or so, the poor car has sat ignored for another summer, maybe this year I'll get the heart I need to strip it down AGAIN !
So, how the heck are you guys, been a while? Rich.
 
Rusty!!! How are ya, old man!! We need to get together one of these days....

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 
Yea, some day, isn't that what I said last year, well anyway I saved the hood for our work on the car day, now the whole car has to be done! :(
 
DEEP Depression

:( So I finally got up the heart to see what's going on under some of the bubbles, C pillar was no rust, just didn't stick, not so lucky with the hood, the little one up in the middle is where the to long air cleaner screw made a slight dent. middle front was a crack in the paint(the problem that showed up first) & then where the paint was lifting in front of the scoop & even worse yet was the fact that I could just peel it all off a lot of the "clean" Metal :rolleyes:





I guess I could glue the puzzle back together & sell the f'in thing! [smilie=i:
about 1/3 of the hood off, the one bright light peeling it off beats the hell out of grinding!:D


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Black organasol on the hood and you are good to go. Something I was considering for the Demon on purpose...

Heck - Black Primer for that matter...
 
Might yet do that I have almost a quart of the organasol black, & 1 quart of the red metallic left, think the red still wont be enough, if I go at this rate it will take all summer to take it apart & strip it! But at least I started after putting it off for years!
 
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