Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

It should only be back a couple a pages then, here's the pics I took today,maybe they will help. thanks Rich.
Rod is 25 1/2" bracket bout 6" from bolt mount to center of rod & the carb rod is about 6" ................
the long rod adjusts at the bottom near the tranny rather than on top of the bracket.

measurementskickdown003.jpg

measurementskickdown002.jpg
 
Crap. When I was piecing the giorunner together I must have mixed mine in with his stuff and sent it with the car. Sorry, I'll see if we can't get him to dig through the stuff in the trunk.

What is it you need that's different then what the picture shows?

Me, myself, I'm not a big fan of the cable set-ups, I'd rather try and get the factory stuff to work.

I'll take another look around the garage. :doh:
 
I need a complete setup just as in the pic, all pieces are different than the ebay one I bought for the 73.
the bracket ,the long rod & adjuster "clamp" at the bottom. I probably could use the "slide" rod I have, just drill out my little weld, but I'd buy it as a whole setup if possible! Thanks anyway ,Rich.
 
We will try to stay positive on the first post & save the crapola for the next!:D
1st I started on the speedo cable, what a bitch gettin the firewall grommet off the old & on the new, new one did not come with it!:mad: Lotta grease & cussin & thats in.
Moved on to the kick down, cept for the extra washer she's in & I think adjusted correctly.Took her out for her first highway run, on decent throttle she shifted at much higher speeds & didn't seem to clunk so bad(still does it on easy takeoffs)
eased her up to 60 -65 & she's hummin along at about 28-2900 rpms(thats gonna be fun on long drives.
All seemed good so on the return trip I tried a full throttle entry from about 20mph or so,she dropped to low & shifted into 2nd at about 6200 rpms, gonna say bout 60 65 mph, again watching tach more than speedo. did a couple of easy ups to 75 -80 & no major noises or vibrations. Was :giggedy: for about 5 lousy mineuts when things started falling apart but thats for the next post!:dgt:
So here's the new kickdown setup!
measurementskickdown004.jpg
 
Gettin off the hiway headin for home(still pretty happy with the ride) & thats when it came unglued, commin of the ramp kinda coasting around a turn the motor just quit, luckily there was a park & ride lot just ahead pulled in.
Could not keep it running , ended up raising the idle to 1500 & got her home riding the brakes & in low & 2nd gear
Almost home & the left front started smoking, thought it was the wiring but left side (front fender area) no wires hot maybe a wheel bearing, got her home pulled the wheel bearing look fine but rotor is hotter that hell, now where trying to determine if the caliper locked or I just fried the paint on the rotor????
We havin fun yet! :shifty: Rich.
 
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Played around a little more today, tried to get new spacer & gasket but none in stock, one guy had a carb heat isolation kit, bassically alum.plates & gaskets was bout 1/2" all told so I left out one plate & one gasket, about 3/8" thick now.
She's running on more normal idle now(but also did that yesterday after it cooled down some) still vaccumn is wondering a bit, got around 12" on the enginne side carb port(drivers side) played with the idles & mixture screws, not much changing, took it around the block & seems fine like before.
Changed the vac line to the distrib too, no change there either.
Gotta get the 340 bros out here to do the final tuning, she's close but not quite right!:confused:
Brakes seem fine so I guess I just fried off all my por 15!:shifty:
 
Attempted a minor tune up today, changed out the plugs first, then reset the timing, it had gone way out, bout 2 after tdc, reset to 5 before & reset the idle to 850. got out the vaccumn guage & messed with the mixture screws , left em at about 14" of vac. took her out for a drive & everything seemed pretty good.
Messed around in the yard cleaning off all my paw prints & took her out again, all was running smooth till I stopped at a light & she stalled, same symptoms, had to keep the idle real high or she'd die out, same as the other day.
Sprayed some carb cleaner around, it was wondering a lot now but seemed to have the most effect down on the intake manifold gasket, what do you guys think?
(carb gaskets I replaced the other day)
Here's the old plugs, tanish color & no major carbon, looks like shes runing ok as far as they go??? Rich.
plugs003.jpg
 
as much as ill get chewed out for it....i do tend to use a bit of ultra black rtv on intake manifolds just for that reason....i had a few leak that i just could never get to go away...i just thin film it all

if your still having linkage issues i "think" part of that issue may be the carb..that looks like the "universal" carb not the mopar specific one..due to that big hoop on it....i could be wrong but ive only ever seen that hoop on there universal series and it puts the mopar mount in slightly the wrong spot

as for the eradicness of the carb..pop the top and blow out the jet pots with 90+psi of air..actualy blow out every port with all the needles and floats removed..then hose with carb clean and repeat...you might have a little chunk of something stuck in there...every time ive done this the problem takes many years to return if ever......
 
Ordered the manifold gaskets today, should have time to play with it tomorrow , just got a couple of job permits I've been waiting on so from thursday on I'll be busy for a month or so, sat is already out, so hopefully tomorrow will solve one more problem!
 
69.5CUDA said:
..due to that big hoop on it....i could be wrong but ive only ever seen that hoop on there universal series and it puts the mopar mount in slightly the wrong spot

......
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That is the universal carb.
That "hoop" is for GM linkage. They use a rubber bushings on their linkage for some reason. Eddy hasn't made the Mopar specific carbs for a number of years. Plus, I have run across a few of the eddy carbs that didn't come with a vacuum advance port. The connections were all manifold vacuum. To test the port check for vacuum with engine at idle. There should be NO vacuum until the throttle is opened. Likewise the idle should not be affected if the vacuum advance is connected or not.

Another obscure cause of erratic idle could be the mechanical advance sticking.:hmmm:
 
Pass side port is advance port, no effect or vac at idle, drivers side is manifold, got it up to 14" tinkering around the other day,since everyting seems to settle back down after she cools of I'm leaning towards the manifold gasket as my main problem(with tips from friends,well you guys on what to go after) once thats in we'll see if any other issues pop up, so far goop is not working on the rear main seal, but I really haven't been able to get much run time on it, still hoping on that one:helpme: can says usually after about 100 miles, might have 20 on it.
After seeing what charger man is going through with his vibration issues, mine have been fairly minor, hope it stays that way! Rich.
 
Replaced the gaskets & still had a problem, blobbed silicone on the back gasket & that one is sealed, found another under the carb, stud hole stripped, was gonna drill it & tap it next size when I noticed everything had a second hole in it, so I put a stud in there, that should be ok?
now it's just a matter of gettin a little help fine tuning it, she idles ok, got it up to 230 sittin there running & sprayed around everything again, I think I got the vaccumn leaks ok for now, worst case if the silicone fails another gasket set.
Only prob now is I can't nail the peddle she tries to stall, she'll go up easy nice & smooth, pretty rough idle too. thanks for the help, I'm sure I'll need more! :pullinghair: Rich.
intakegasket.jpg
 
Looking at this picture and I may have misunderstood what you were saying about 'everything having a second hole' (so many jokes, so little time).
Do you not have the studs/bolts 'square'? Not that I think that would be a problem, all things equal it shouldn't make any difference.
If it were me, I would round up some allen set screws and run them down into the unused holes perhaps with a bit of sillycone on them just to eliminate there being a crack between the holes. You did say you found a stripped hole and everything you've said just screams vacuum leak.
I'd love to see you catch a break on this, even the OE guys haven't tried as hard as you have. Whew.

RUSTY Cuda said:
intakegasket.jpg
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a12 the carters have 8 holes drilled to mount in place of a holley or carter or stock ford and a few others..making it a true universal carb..some intakes make use of the same set of 8 holes...tho the inner "square" hole pattern can be a lil bit of a pain to get at with a socket


heres the thing ...it doesnt matter what holes you use on the carb even if there all missmatched from eachother it wont make a lick of differance......however..if you found a vac leak on the outside..10-1 odds are youve got one on the inside as well......and with those good blue felpro's..ive gotten away with re-useing them many many many times...7 different manifolds on the same engine over a months time(alot of combo testing)...the problem i have found tho is that often times theres minor imperfections in the heads or the intakes..and unless you deck EVERYTHING and match it all..the best gaskets in the world wont always fix it..so...i brake clean the surfaces then put a thin coat of ultra black on BOTH sides of those gaskets around EVERY port and the water ports..and ive thus never had a vac leak since i started doing that..alot of guys cringe over even the thought of it..but it works ...this way the only potential leaks are at the base of the carb or lines not the engine itself

i will add this tho..i HATE those stack spacer sets..ive never had anything but leaks from them..gimmy a aluminum plate and 2 gaskets instead less prone to leak and shrinkage

as for the accel shot..try up and try down..you may find it could be either of them...the 273 wanted less shot to fix that.....also if its a used carb your mettering rods may have the wrong springs in them causeing some HUGE headaches as well..hell even new the springs may need to be changed

did you buy the carb new or used?.....if used id seriously pop the top and high air pressure out the whole thing
 
Right, I understand that, what I'm saying is, I've seen where the manifold that has provisions (8 holes for use with either OE or aftermarket carb) develops a crack between the holes for the studs/bolts in the manifold itself. I'm just saying for about a dollar you can eliminate that as a possible source of a leak.
I've seen where guys will just shove a bolt in it a hack it off. With a set screw you can still get it back out
 
Hmmmm where to start, I think I just need to reset everything & start from scratch, the carb was fine before the vac leak in the manifold gaskets, I nailed it at least a dozen times in the last two weeks of test drives & she took off.
Got started on the first of the jobs my permits came through on today, next few weeks are gonna be hectic to say the least, I usually leave a day or two between big jobs to do some service, estimates & get ready for the next, now I gotta run right through 4 in a row, doing any service at night or weekends(lucky it's a mild season & there shouldn't be much) anyway, kinda just in time, I need a break from the car & money to continue after I chill a bit!
69, when I reused these spacers (they were new last week) I put a thin coat of silicone on every layer just to be safe, on the manifold gaskets I used a light coat of the silicone they provided with the set, I'm thinkin now that that was meant for the corners of the front & rear cork gaskets, there were no instructions in the damn box!
greg might be able to get over here in the next few weeks, if not in november when we work together, better ear & mucho more car knowledge than me, I'm sure eventually we will get it debugged! Thanks,Rich.
 
She survived a short test drive this am, gonna take her on a longer drive later to get good & hot & make sure at least the vac leak problem is solved! later,Rich.
 
Drove around the area for about 1/2 hour without incident ,never really got over 200ish , but did not try to stall at stop lights & such, I'm hoping the vac leak problem is solved!
when I get it out on the highway again I'll take notes on how the tranny is shifting under different conditions & then post up for advice. Thanks for the help,Rich.
oh yea filled the tank & calculate gas milage at 5.3 mpg,last time it was around 7 with a little hiway drivin(very little) anyway this has to improve with tuning otherwise my range will be from one gas station to the next! [smilie=2: Rich.
 
Had a little car time yesterday, cleaned her up after the storm,put in the glove box & tightened up my tach. When i first started her up didn't catch hi idle & she ran a bit rough, put it on by hand for 5 mins & then kicked it down & she ran nice, drove around for about 1/2 hour locally without incident, got a NICE 'Cuda from a guy in my gas station driving a NICE fire bird 400 vert(68 or 9) . Think one of my squeeks might be my hood latch, but didn't dig in too far on that. threw in my repop owners manuel & wrapped her up for the night!
I drove around in 2nd on all the small streets to avoid the clunking shifts, just poped her into third on the 40mph roads, much less annoyiny that way!
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