Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Hey, I won't blame you for pouring in stop leak. I understand your thinking. It's worth a shot, but in my experience it's not very effective for oil leaks in pressurized areas.

Looking at your eBay linkage, though, and its relationship to the carburetor, I'm positive that's 318-2V linkage... and again, with a full-throttle upshift that high, I think the lower upshift speeds under normal driving are of very little concern--more an annoyance than a problem.
 
Checked out the kickdown linkage on the 74 more closely today, from a manifold bolt to the carb rod it's bout 5 1/2", the ebay one is only 3 1/2"
cant just change the bracket though the rod is different too, don't really wanna rape the 74 anymore but if I can't locate one I will for now, probably have another 10 yrs or so before it will be an issue!:shifty:
Gonna order the rebuilt steering box too, tried to adjust mine with no help to the play in the wheel, with the leaks,bout 100 bucks for the rebuilt it's worth it to just change it out, alignment job will probably be out the window though! just hoping I dont have to pull the headers, that would SUCK!:(
Once I get the motor mounts in I should be able to hear what noises are left, if the early upshifts won't hurt the tranny, then I won't chase that anymore, the clunk has to be found though, as with most noises like that it will only get worse till something breaks I hafta think:doh: there I go thinkin again!:dgt: Rich.
 
This is what was recomended to me by a lot of guys around here:

http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEtkdc.asp

It's expensive, but according to a lot of guys I know it's the answer to reducing the headaches presented by aftermarket induction setups combined with factory throttle pressure (kickdown) linkages, particularily when converting from 2 bbl to 4 bbl. I haven't got the engine trans even in the car, much less this installed to give a personal review of it but I figger if that many guys in small city Saskatchewan endorse it, it's gotta be OK. By looking at the instructions that came with the kit, it's a lot less hassle than screwing with the factory setup.

I also bought their throttle cable bracket http://www.bouchillonperformance.com/BPEaccBracket.asp because it's supposed to make the installation of the kit much easier.

I'm a 4 speed baby - this is the first time I've ever done any screwing around with an auto in one of my hot-rods, so I'm open to trying things that are supposed to make it easier.
 
Thanks Nodda, It was suggested by someone over at cc.com also, looks cool but I'm on a tight budget, blew my allowence on the interior:rolleyes:;
I'd swear i have the one thats on it working, I have the one on the 74 as backup. for now Im gonna move on to the motor mounts & the steering box so I can get off the local roads & see what other issues are lurking. I need to know what if anthing else is more pressing , then I can figure what needs to be done first, at this rate I'll never get to the 74, she's rotting away right in front of me.
I actually worked on that a bit today, got the rust out of the wheel bearing & greased it up , slid the axels back in & buttoned em up, don't wanna destroy that rear with moisture too. got the carb hooked up & fired her up for 20 mins or so, battery may be ruined(only 2 years old) but I let it sit way too long this year, gonna get a full charge on it tomorrow & see if it holds (There may be a warrantee gotta check that) [smilie=:: Rich.
 
Before you spend the money on a steering box, check the steering-column coupler. That's more likely the source of your excess play. A rebuild kit is around $9 from Motormite; if the housing's shot then it's a dealer item, but it's still quite a bit less than a rebuilt gear.

If you have batteries that sit, get a Battery Tender. For less than $35, you can make your batteries last several years longer.
 
I did put in a new coupler kit, although I've already ruined 2 of the top seals:mad:
I have a really old trickle charger I got for my father, do those things shut down automaticly?
Got the motor mounts, now I have to make sure they will mate up with whats on there, are the base (lower) brackets the same for the solid ones?
ordered a speedo cable while I was at it, when the old is out I'll pull the cable & grease it up & inspect for damage.
Steering box & cable should be in tomorrow am, if so I have my work cut out for me this weekend![smilie=f:Rich.
 
The lower brackets that bolt to the K are the rubber motor mounts you ordered. The factory uppers that bolt to the block are solid, just a formed metal plate... and yes, the block brackets should be the same. I say "should" because the only solid mounts with which I'm familiar are the Morosos, and they use the stock block brackets.

If the trickle charger does not say "Automatic" on it, I wouldn't use it to keep a stored battery fresh. We sell a unit that is a fully-automatic 750mA battery maintainer. It's got a status LED on it that lets you know when the battery's charged or being charged. It's not much larger than your typical "wall-wart" plug for battery-operated devices and goes right into a standard outlet. Another handy feature: the battery leads end in a quick-disconnect plug (it looks just like a Chrysler electronic distributor plug) and it comes with two sets of leads for the battery end. One set of leads has eyerings that can be permanently left on a vehicle's cables, and the other leads end in normal battery clamps. It's made by Deltran and called "Battery Tender Jr.". The part number is 021-0123, $30-$35 USD most places. I think ours is $33.99. That's a bargain for the huge increase in battery life. Stretch has one; he no longer has to buy a new battery for his Charger every year. I have one as well. For the record, if you try to use it as a primary battery charger, expect it to take days to charge a completely-dead battery.
 
I also got a little bigger regular charger from dad for the full charging deal, i'll check the trickle tomorrow for the automatic listing, he hasn't had a car for 7 or 8 years, we just made up a set of tools for my oldest son whos got his first house(well condo type thingie) but I pulled all the car tools out, wasn't a whole lot left but he's got some basics.
Messed with charger mans car a bit tonight chasing down a vibration/noise at around 2400 rpms, we pulled the plugs & found one that was way bent away from the elecrode on an up angle, he had those done by a suppossed pro, another was in hand tight, now right bank had 3 nice tan color, rear one looked bran new, left bank all plugs looked bran new, no real color at all , car definatly runs better now but still has the vibration, I can't even hear it so he's on his own there. Looked at all his pulleys at some pretty high rmps(brought it up slow) & they "look" rock solid, a couple a weeks ago he had the flywheel & clutch disc balanced as a unit, driving him nuts! Rich.
 
whew, what a long day,leave it to us backyard mechanics to take a small project & turn it into an all day affair! :D
Called the parts house around nine am & the steering box was in, picked up charger man & headed out, got back before ten, he had some errands to run so I started setting up the tools, dragged out the engine hoist, floor jack, jack stands & about all the car related tool I own! :wtf:
Started buy pulling the drivers side front tire & the 2 plastic splash shields,battery & tray, got the box loose & need about 2" more between the headers & the inner fender, so we loosened up the motor mounts & started lifting the motor, crap, bout 3/4 of an inch short with it straight up in the front.Pulled the high press hose from the pump & cleaned up that mess.:dgt: Put on the pass side mount, lowered her down & started all bolts over there. put a block under the drivers side & lowered the hoist so we could remove the pass side chain. set it up on the drivers side only, hoisted her up again & after it hit the limit we were a cats hair from clearing, one guy shoving the motor the other pulling the box out she came.
by now it's already like 3 pm . Set the new box in, got the bolts in & proceded to wonder how we would ever get the crap lined up again, motor might be sitting a tad higher on the new mounts cause the tie rod is now resting on the headers & wont clear the bolt on the idler, after some more head scratching & a little BBQ prepared by the gracious wife we loosened the boxes mounting bolts & lifted it up & slid the bar under & dropped the bolt in, C-man retightened all the stuff under there & I put the hoses back ,started to tighte up the motor mounts, finished those off & removed the hoist, filled the pump, cranked her over some, refilled, never really blead it, but she's full (rechecked after a test drive, but more on the later) what, there's more you ask, we this is Rusty, soooo........
C-man took off around 6, I cleaned up back there, bout an hour just for that, took a quick shower to reawaken my spirits & took her out for a test drive.
Had the perfect place too, they just repaved my street, smooth as a babys ass.
Slow ride straight down, around a block to turn around & stopped back by my house to check the fluid, good to go. Took her out on that longer 45mph road & she tracks straight, but my steering wheel is a 1/16th to 1/8th off, not a lot of play either, so that was the box.
tranny still clunks out the auto upshifts real early, 5mph 1 to 2 & 8 to 12mph 2 to 3 , no noise on a manuel shift with a little throttle.
With a little more throttle it was maybe 12 & 20 mph on the 2 shifts.(still clunking):(
Had a tad of fun, got my first thumbs up, from a guy in a cedes no less, just as I was turning onto that bigger road, well I was in low, took off with a little more throttle & left him a nice CHIRP going into second :toot:
Speedo cable was not bad today, now I'm wondering if I need to change it, maybe I'll give it another shot of oil & see.:hmmm:
Oh yea had to grind the nut off the new motor mount, we went through hell not to pull those headers for the steering box, I wasn't about to pull em for a bolt. so I used 2 bolts like the solid mounts had.:shifty:
Shes a tad quieter under neath, much less vibration , still waiting for the rear seal goop, that should be in mon or tues, another (though frustrating at times) day of foward progress, this could be a record, 2 in a row, I'm on a roll!:D Rich.
 
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That got a tad long, so now for my F-up, what do they put in the gearboxes before shipping, looked like tranny fluid to me, I FORGOT to drain it, now it's mixed in with the reg fluid. Do I have to flush it all out & start over?:o Rich.
 
K another little bugger popped up last night, my son came through the yard & noticed my brake lights were on, now this happened on the 74 too, had to lift the pedal after each braking use, 74 is power & the 73's are manuel. Is there a return spring on the pedals I'm missing(none on either) or did I get 2 bad master cylinders,I'm assuming thats where the spring is? Rich.
 
If the brake-lamp switch setup is similar to what's on my LeBaron (and they use the same switch, so I assume it's very similar), the switch's bracket has a oval bolt hole where it's mounted to the pedal's pivot bracket. Just slide it toward the pedal until the brake lights go off and tighten 'er up.

Lots of people use transmission fluid for power steering. That's what was in most of my old Mopars. If you put power-steering fluid in it, you're fine. It won't hurt anything. However, I would suggest fully bleeding the pump... all you have to do it turn the wheel lock-to-lock and back 3-4 times, and that will work out any air pockets. As with any recirculating hydraulic system, air pockets can wreak a lot of havoc not only on function but longevity as well.
 
Probably makin this more complicated than it is buuuuuuuuuuut why would it change, been moving the car around the yard for a couple of years now & this is the first time it happened on the 73, just ran out there & made that adjustment, set it to where the pedal rests on upswing "Now" there's about another 3/8 or 1/2 of free(upswing) play in the pedal to where my switch used to be set, was I just on the edge of breaking the circuit or did something else change in the master.
Now I have to check out the 74 too, now that car I never touched the pedal or switch & it started doing it about 2 weeks into driving it with the new master cylinder???
Thanks for setting my mind at ease bout the tranny fluid, thought I really messed that up, someday I will learn to read the destructions!:doh:
We did do that as we were filling the pump, but I will do it again before the next test drive, just to be safe.
still waiting on the engine oil sealing goop, just washed all the other fluids off the front end, startin clean again to see what else leaks:shifty: Rich.
 
If it's a rebuilt M/C or even just an old one with lots of miles the pedal may actually be setting a little lower than before, as the tolerances are not that precise. Every time I've swapped out a master cylinder I've had to adjust the switch. Give it a try, - I'm almost sure it'll correct the problem.
 
I made the adjustment on the 73, did not hook up the battery to test but it moved down quite a bit & I'm pretty sure thats gonna do it, tomorrow I'll check the 74 & see if it's the same problem, thanks,Rich.
 
More tweekin today, pulled the fuel sending unit, bent the crap outta the float & put 20 bucks worth in, moved up to little over half, sloshed her around the hood, no leaks & went back & filled it up, almost makes it to the full line , sloshed it around town some more & looks like no leaks. Now I gotta find out where empty is! :toot:
After my road tests I checked the brake lights, yep there on again, crawl under there & the bar is now bent!:( Rebent the bar & adjusted again, we will see what tomorrow brings! :hmmm:
Put on the pinion snubber , checked the front end area for leaks, gave the valve cover bolts a turn & all is dry cept the rear seal area, did not get to napa today, hoping the goop will be there tomorrow.
Still waiting on those results to see if I get the trans checked out next.
Gonna pull the kick down outta the 74 tomorrow & get that cleaned up & ready for the switch.
Might get lucky on the steering wheel being off I think I have to go opposet the all the way in & out tie rods? could I be that lucky!:doubt: Rich.
 
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I have quite a few bits of small block kick down linkage. If you post a picture of what you need and the measurements I can take a dig through and see if I have something that might work. All my cars have been three pedals but I picked up a few sets to do an auto swap that never made it the whole way.

It's amazing for something as simple as it is, getting a full, matching set of stuff that works together ain't all that easy, and buying a new reproduction set requires a second mortgage.
 
On page 134 2nd to last pic is the 74 kickdown setup, the bracket measures about 5 1/2" from a manifold bolt to the center of the carb rod, gonna pull it today I'll that some pics & measurements. thanks Rich.
 
My replies per page most not be set the same as you, I ONLY, lol, ONLY have 92 pages.
I'd offer to send you a whole set but they've been mixed together for so long I have no idea which bits go together.
 
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