Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

K, got 20 for the grille parts, 10 for the dwyer guage.
lets see after ebay milks me I should end up with about 75, guess we can almost afford McDonalds now!
 
I have a headache!
Trying to find if I can pick up the coil neg. for the tach somewhere under the dash.
Looks like it goes directly to the ignition control, from there I can't follow because I have no internals on that control.
On one diagram that has the tach it shows a single wire out to the coil, trying not to make another hole in the firewall.
I think I can get the hot, ground & light under there with plugs no cutting & splicing, I hope! 20240711_154544.jpg
Chrysler wiring befuddles me!
 
Negative coil is underhood only. Squeeze your wire through the rubber grommet next to the speedo cable.
 
K not liking this, if I put it straight it completely blocks the fuel gauge, cocked a bit I think I can see the speedo enough & peek around for fuel.
Got the wire out, ended up using the hood release cable grommet for that, speedo was even tighter.
On the other car it was over by the blank clock bezel hanging from the top of the dash, but this has a rounded bracket with only 1 screw hole in the middle &then to hide the wires I think I would pull the seat belt warning light & snake through there?
20240714_144612.jpg3 wires left under dash, ground no problem, use same on as radio.
Hot with key on I'm not finding.
Have 3-3 prong connectors, red is hot all the time, the orange I can't get to, it's wire tied way up top.
That should be at least for the light.
There's a yellow near the column, has a green off it that I think goes to the heater switch, but I only read 10. something volts there with key in on position?

So I come to this, do I really need a tach, it's automatic, I would be much more likely to use the kickdown if I need a surge then to downshift & go slapstick.
No intention to line up & race anyone sooo, I may just say adi os to the tach completely!
 
If I can even get someone here to assist me on the last "FINE" tuning I can jump it in under the hood like I did before.
At the moment I'm leaning towards shit canning it
 
Thought process ended, tach is out & will not go back, So I wanted to pull it out to get to my train tables up in the rafters.

So I set the choke & she fired right up, it actually stayed running. While I'm giving it a minuet to warm up I noticed little by little it started to speed up, of course without a TACH I don't know how high it was, but sounded too fast to me, at that point I just kicked it down to reg. idle.

Is that normal?

So I got my stuff, blew out the dust bowl in the garage & hosed off the 'Cuda, so it will be dust free for an hour or two!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
So I set the choke & she fired right up, it actually stayed running. While I'm giving it a minuet to warm up I noticed little by little it started to speed up, of course without a TACH I don't know how high it was, but sounded too fast to me, at that point I just kicked it down to reg. idle.

Is that normal?
Click to expand...
That's exactly how it's supposed to work. You've been driving EFI cars too long! 😁
 
Dr.Jass said:
That's exactly how it's supposed to work. You've been driving EFI cars too long! 😁
Click to expand...
Years back I had a Dodge Aries with a Mitsu 2.6. Three valve cylinders with a dual mixture 3 bbl carb. That carb used what they called a "wax melt down" choke system. It lowered the idle as the choke opened. Ingenious system, when it worked right.
 
68R/T said:
That carb used what they called a "wax melt down" choke system. It lowered the idle as the choke opened. Ingenious system, when it worked right.
Click to expand...
Mistubishi simply adapted the concept from virtually every engine thermostat made since the dawn of pressurized cooling systems. It's been used on cars for 70 years.

The (usually) copper or brass slug on the engine side of a thermostat is filled with wax, the expansion and contraction of which regulates the thermostat's valve opening. The original application was high-performance military aircraft engines, which were the first to use pressurized cooling systems in the 1930s. Older "bellows" thermostats were similar in theory, but worked around the boiling point of a liquid inside a bellows. Leakage was always an issue with that design. Worse yet, in a pressurized system, higher differential pressure across bellows-style thermostats could and would force the thermostat closed. That's inconvenient on a vacation, but mid-dogfight it could prove fatal. When pressurized automotive cooling systems became the norm in the 1950s, the wax design took over and bellows thermostats disappeared, even for older non-pressurized systems.

The wax-regulated design found its way into building/home heating in the early 1970s to automatically control individual radiators, and therefore individual room temperatures, based on a room's ambient temp rather than commands from the system's central thermostat. If you've seen a doodad similar to this on a radiator inlet pipe, now you know what it does and how it works.
thermostatic-radiator-valve.jpg
 
Got sidetracked a little, Mark is finally getting most of His tool collection out of here, He asked if I could use any of it, there was 1 piece I needed, he had almost the same craftsman base as mine, mine had a bad wheel. His wheels are bigger, so I'll make the swap & junk mine.
Another 2 one of my sons will take, nice one that's been inside & a nasty one that was out back for about a year, started cleaning those up.................
Mines done, all I had to clean & paint was the top & the bottom drawer.
Jass your gray paint almost matched! 20240724_161103.jpgTop tray & bottom were nasty, paint peeling & a lot of my fave RUST20240724_150303.jpg

Just have to drag out the wire wheels to get the tight spots "Almost" ready for paint! 20240724_150309.jpg
20240724_161049.jpg
He has the top section of his giant box that's gonna be junked, too bad you guys weren't closer
It's like 5' wide & 2' high, that's been inside. 20240724_172149.jpg
 
Glad to hear... I was literally just posting wondering why he'd junk a perfectly-good top box like that.
 
He has less room at the new place & is using the bottom box as a work area, I will still have some big stuff here, but that can stay outside.
 
I'm pooped!
still prepping for the toolbox removal, cleaned up out back so the 'Cuda can get under the tent for a couple of days.
Then moving stuff around in the garage while cleaning & painting the cart for my son.
Got my toolbox set, too bad, it had 2 more drawers, but I can't use the big bottom one because it's below my flood level!

Look around this mess, if there's a tool your missing or could use let me know & I'll get it or them to you.
About every kind of ring clip plyer you could imagine & other odd balls I guess for special uses? 20240725_133700.jpg
Found this I never noticed before. 20240725_133817.jpgActually had a compression tester too, along with some more odd pullers & an oil pressure guage. 20240725_135100.jpgMy vise grip collection grew from all the welding work. 20240725_134405.jpgThe air tools I got when my bro in law passed, most never came out of the drawer, even had a scraper & a chisel & small & medium ratchets, I stayed away from air as much as possible to keep the neighbors happy! 20240725_135112.jpg2 little adapters to lock on the sockets, 14 & 15 bucks way back then, most be made of gold? 20240725_143458.jpg& finally the finished cart for my son, ran out of red so I did the bottom in eastwoods cast iron gray, helped me get rid of 3 or 4 spray bombs I don't need any more! 20240725_164859.jpg
 
I see a ton of stuff I can use in some of those pictures. We'll see if anyone else chimes in first, though.
 
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