Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress
- Thread starter mopar_man
- Start date
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Not even sure if there's anything wrong with it, I have no recall as to where it came from or if I ever had it on the 73?
I'll see if I can find your address & ship it over, if not I'll shoot you a line.
I'll see if I can find your address & ship it over, if not I'll shoot you a line.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
At least some good news, vac on the A/C system held over night, had the pump on 2 more hours today, I'll probably do that daily till I get it running again to make sure any moisture that might have gotten in the coils is evacuated!
Actually was wet sanding (2000 only)& buffing again, when I got it in the garage with all my nice new LED lighting I saw about a million more defects, something to kill time while I wait on the parts!
Actually was wet sanding (2000 only)& buffing again, when I got it in the garage with all my nice new LED lighting I saw about a million more defects, something to kill time while I wait on the parts!
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Plate got here before the belt & gasket!
It is thick, I hope it doesn't raise it to overcome my switch from 3" h to 2" hi air filter, But I think it was ok when I had that thick gasket from Jerry on there?
It is thick, I hope it doesn't raise it to overcome my switch from 3" h to 2" hi air filter, But I think it was ok when I had that thick gasket from Jerry on there?
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
It's up really close, the wing nut still hit the insulation after I cut down the stud, but I don't think the air cleaner does, it did before with the 3" element.
If I pull it down & shoot some adhesive & glue it in the middle It would probably clear, but not sure I want glue in there?
My studs came up a tad short, got about 3/4 of the nut on before it bottomed out.
Not sure I like that plate being held down with Philips head screws?
If I pull it down & shoot some adhesive & glue it in the middle It would probably clear, but not sure I want glue in there?
My studs came up a tad short, got about 3/4 of the nut on before it bottomed out.
Not sure I like that plate being held down with Philips head screws?
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I expect those have countersunk heads, so you might be able to find something that has a hex or torx head instead of philips.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Oh well it's in now, the other brand Jass noted did have allen key screws.
I used a pretty good size driver & got em in pretty good, well I think?
Ran the vac pump 3 more hours, got the carb all hooked up & then fought with a couple of fender bolts I forgot , would have been easy before I put the front end together!
Had to pull the washer bottle & the charcoal canister, top one not too terrible, bottom one was a royal pain!
Got the top one in on the other side, I think I will skip the bottom, whole battery tray would have to come out!
Since I had a good day I decided NOT to ruin it & did NOT try & start it up.
the belt & the other gasket came about 1 hour later, so now I have a spare set of carb gaskets, both came with the adaptor & I used that set & the top one also came with the carb.
So I will see how much difference 1" make on a belt tomorrow & if I'm feeling really really really good I will try & start it?
Be nice to be able to pull it out for the extra buffing that stuff goes everywhere!
I used a pretty good size driver & got em in pretty good, well I think?
Ran the vac pump 3 more hours, got the carb all hooked up & then fought with a couple of fender bolts I forgot , would have been easy before I put the front end together!
Had to pull the washer bottle & the charcoal canister, top one not too terrible, bottom one was a royal pain!
Got the top one in on the other side, I think I will skip the bottom, whole battery tray would have to come out!
Since I had a good day I decided NOT to ruin it & did NOT try & start it up.
the belt & the other gasket came about 1 hour later, so now I have a spare set of carb gaskets, both came with the adaptor & I used that set & the top one also came with the carb.
So I will see how much difference 1" make on a belt tomorrow & if I'm feeling really really really good I will try & start it?
Be nice to be able to pull it out for the extra buffing that stuff goes everywhere!
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Just ordered all rubber muffler hangers, maybe just maybe I can get it up another 1" or so?
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Engine bay is close to done, looks good I wish it would work good!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
It will. Hopefullly that carb will help, but even if not, you have a good idea that it's not the problem so you can start looking elsewhere. I remember the happiest day I've had with this Duster was when I took the 850 double pumper off and put a new 750 vacuum secondary carb on it. So nice to pump it once to set the choke and fire it off every time. I miss those days
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Well not a terrible day, she fired right up with the new carb, at first glance I was almost giddy the vac was up around 15.
Well as everything with this car it ended quickly when I realized it was on high idle!
When I kicked it down it dropped back off to around 10.
Seems at least I'm getting a little reaction from the adjustment screws, got it up around 12.
Does seem to be running much smoother also.
So fan belt, 1" makes a big difference, I had to pry the 55 over the pulley, there was a little slack once on so I just set that, maybe it will stretch a bit before I have to change it or I will just cut it off.
I guess 55.5 will end up being the correct belt!
Well as everything with this car it ended quickly when I realized it was on high idle!
When I kicked it down it dropped back off to around 10.
Seems at least I'm getting a little reaction from the adjustment screws, got it up around 12.
Does seem to be running much smoother also.
So fan belt, 1" makes a big difference, I had to pry the 55 over the pulley, there was a little slack once on so I just set that, maybe it will stretch a bit before I have to change it or I will just cut it off.
I guess 55.5 will end up being the correct belt!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Good info. I've got the correct PS belt for my car and it's too big so I have to start guessing too.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
First and foremost, I'm glad you figured out the installation of the adapter from the first picture to the second!
I wouldn't worry too much about what drive style the screws are/were. I guess the advantage to Philips in this case is that it's hard to over-torque them? I would've expected socket-head (Allen) like Mr Gasket uses, but as long as they're tight you should be OK.
All the mixture/idle speed adjusting needs to be done with the vacuum advance disconnected and, as I've said several times, the engine fully up to temperature. Using only the mixture screwss, get the vacuum as high as you can with the idle set at the desired RPM. Add in a couple of degrees of timing; if you're at 10° now, try 12 or even 14°. The idle should rise, which you want to back off with the idle speed screw to your original RPM reading. Now mess with the mixture screws again and see if you can get any more vacuum.
I don't know if I've mentioned this in the past, but the mixture screws should be at very-nearly identical adjustments. In other words, if you move the left half a turn and get 0.5", switch to the right screw. Turn it the same amount in the same direction prior to turning the left any further. When turning the first screw has no effect, turn the other the same amount. If there's no change after that, turn both back to the previous setting. It's a bit of a tweaky process, but one that once you're used to it doesn't take long a'tall. When you've got it nailed, you can come over and do the 830 Holley on Agnes... it has four mixture screws.
The fact that you gained 2" is quite encouraging. That means the carb swap was justified. Further justification comes from the fact that apparently it's not dumping fuel anymore, which aligns with my guess that the pump is probably OK. I think you'll be happier with the Thunder Series, too.
You're very close, young man. If you hit a setback now, just go review one of the older pages in this thread, and look how far perseverence has gotten you. Driving this thing is in sight now!
I wouldn't worry too much about what drive style the screws are/were. I guess the advantage to Philips in this case is that it's hard to over-torque them? I would've expected socket-head (Allen) like Mr Gasket uses, but as long as they're tight you should be OK.
All the mixture/idle speed adjusting needs to be done with the vacuum advance disconnected and, as I've said several times, the engine fully up to temperature. Using only the mixture screwss, get the vacuum as high as you can with the idle set at the desired RPM. Add in a couple of degrees of timing; if you're at 10° now, try 12 or even 14°. The idle should rise, which you want to back off with the idle speed screw to your original RPM reading. Now mess with the mixture screws again and see if you can get any more vacuum.
I don't know if I've mentioned this in the past, but the mixture screws should be at very-nearly identical adjustments. In other words, if you move the left half a turn and get 0.5", switch to the right screw. Turn it the same amount in the same direction prior to turning the left any further. When turning the first screw has no effect, turn the other the same amount. If there's no change after that, turn both back to the previous setting. It's a bit of a tweaky process, but one that once you're used to it doesn't take long a'tall. When you've got it nailed, you can come over and do the 830 Holley on Agnes... it has four mixture screws.
The fact that you gained 2" is quite encouraging. That means the carb swap was justified. Further justification comes from the fact that apparently it's not dumping fuel anymore, which aligns with my guess that the pump is probably OK. I think you'll be happier with the Thunder Series, too.
You're very close, young man. If you hit a setback now, just go review one of the older pages in this thread, and look how far perseverence has gotten you. Driving this thing is in sight now!
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
The opposable digit upon mine hand has proclaimed an ordinance upon the land:
When you need a different-length belt, remember that the distance around each pulley does not change. In the case of an alternator belt, the distance between two of the three pulleys (crank and water pump) doesn't change either. Therefore, a 1" shorter belt means the adjuster bolt's position in its slot should change by almost exactly 1/2".
That is The Rule of Thumb. All shallst obey.
There is some fudging involved if you start with a used belt as your baseline, since that belt's effective has grown due to both sidewall wear and stretch. I've never had a used 7455 measure 45.5" on Ye Olde Measvring Styck, for example. More like 46+.
With that being the case, the best start is to have thine old belt measured using said Styck at a parts store. If the parts store you doth frequent havest not their own Measvring Styck, you should find one and smite them with it (after you've measured yon belt). More than one type of Styck doth exist, so thou shalt smite them directly with their own Styck shouldst they produce a serpentine belt Styck for your V-belt. Then thou shouldst find a properly-equipped parts store forthwith.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Mark was over & did a lot of the playing with the screws while I watched the gauge, fully warmed up, back & fort same amount on each screw.
I did not have the tach hooked up, we were playing by ear.
PCV valve disconnected at the start, bout halfway through we hooked it back up, no change there.
We also switched the vacuum gauge from the brake booster tree to the carb vac on idle port & no real change there either.
Next time out I'll get the tach hooked up & the timing light out & go at it from scratch, timing was I think at 10BTDC before I changed the carb, not sure if the change would affect that, but I need to see where it's at.
I did not have the tach hooked up, we were playing by ear.
PCV valve disconnected at the start, bout halfway through we hooked it back up, no change there.
We also switched the vacuum gauge from the brake booster tree to the carb vac on idle port & no real change there either.
Next time out I'll get the tach hooked up & the timing light out & go at it from scratch, timing was I think at 10BTDC before I changed the carb, not sure if the change would affect that, but I need to see where it's at.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Well mine all started with the new A/C compressor, they recommended a 54, well that's what was on the car (actually 2 of them)
Measuring around the pulleys got me a 56" reading, So being a complete novice at this I figured a 56 would never get over the pulleys hence the first order of a 58, when I saw that was WAY big, I went a little further away to go to another parts store, that guy told me on the phone he had a couple, I get there & they were serpentine!!!!, after going back I fourth with him the guy next to him finally jumped in & said you need XYZ, well he came out of the back with one belt the 56, when that took me to the end of the adjuster I figured 55 was the #, wow that was tight to get on, had a little slack when seated in the pulley so I just tightened that, she's good to go, but I have to think a 55.5 will go on a little easier & not take the adjuster bar to the end.
I have a good stock of useless belts now!
Measuring around the pulleys got me a 56" reading, So being a complete novice at this I figured a 56 would never get over the pulleys hence the first order of a 58, when I saw that was WAY big, I went a little further away to go to another parts store, that guy told me on the phone he had a couple, I get there & they were serpentine!!!!, after going back I fourth with him the guy next to him finally jumped in & said you need XYZ, well he came out of the back with one belt the 56, when that took me to the end of the adjuster I figured 55 was the #, wow that was tight to get on, had a little slack when seated in the pulley so I just tightened that, she's good to go, but I have to think a 55.5 will go on a little easier & not take the adjuster bar to the end.
I have a good stock of useless belts now!
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Also worth mentioning:
It's only the "correct belt" for your car if you're 100% sure all the pulleys are 1971 Duster 340 issue (or whatever application you used as a baseline). This is rarely the case with our home brews, and certainly not the case with about 90% of remanufactured alternators. A new, "correct" belt should be a very good baseline for the rule of thumb mentioned above.
Mark's a good man. It sounds like he's well familiar with the process.
This isn't a huge deal, really, but the mixture screws can affect the idle speed which may be tough to detect with the ol' ear-bones.
That's very good in both cases.
The timing should not change a'tall by changing the carb, unless the spark vacuum is connected and the carb is not running on its idle circuit (too much idle speed screw engagement). I'm guessing it's probably right where you left it.
I'd still like to see closer to 14" of vacuum, but with no knowledge of the cam or engine wear (both of which can affect overall vacuum) I can't sit here and tell you it'll definitively make 14".
It's a relatively-low compression engine with what's most likely a hotter-than-stock camshaft, so as far as pushing the timing, don't fret about it unless you're going to pull a 26' Airstream up Pike's Peak with three passengers and all their luggage. For leisurely driving and the occasional stab at the loud pedal, detonation should not be an issue at 12-14°. If it is, you got some bad fuel, you're burning oil, or something's hinky in the chambers.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Only gauge I have was that the pistons were 30 over, so we know something was worked, with that you almost have to assume a cam went in?
It's not as rumpity sounding as my other car, I had some info on that & there was head work on that one too.
Compression test was pretty good all in the low 70's that one 65 was he only question mark? those # may be 170's don't Remember at the moment
I'm pretty sure it was not recent work & probably lived a rough life down in texas, with the party girl dancing on the roof!
So a well broken in engine would be my guess.
Yep cruising with the occasional stab will be about it for this ole man.
It did sound much smoother with almost no shaking today, will see what tomorrow brings!
Oh yea & no smoke out the tails pipes, she did smoke up when I gave it a good throttle goose!
It's not as rumpity sounding as my other car, I had some info on that & there was head work on that one too.
Compression test was pretty good all in the low 70's that one 65 was he only question mark? those # may be 170's don't Remember at the moment
I'm pretty sure it was not recent work & probably lived a rough life down in texas, with the party girl dancing on the roof!
So a well broken in engine would be my guess.
Yep cruising with the occasional stab will be about it for this ole man.
It did sound much smoother with almost no shaking today, will see what tomorrow brings!
Oh yea & no smoke out the tails pipes, she did smoke up when I gave it a good throttle goose!
68R/T
I got drunk and swallowed my teeth, now
Blue, black or white?
b-body-bob
Well-known member
It has to be more than 65-70. I searched a little but had no joy finding a post in this thread with compression numbers. IIRC the rule of thumb is the difference between cylinders should be within 10% for all of them. If cylinder X is 170, cylinder Y *should be* between 153-187.