OK 2 things I can verify now, the smoke was black but not like diesel black, pretty light.
& standing behind the car not overwhelming, no teary eyes.
Not sure my tach is accurate, at 800ish she bumps a little when put in gear, can't get lower is gets pretty rough & starts to stall.
I have to adjust the high idle a bit, I put it back on the highest one after warm & it was about 2000.
The fast-idle recommendation is 1,800RPM, so you're pretty close. Recheck that reading when it's
cold--that's the only time that particular adjustment matters. It exists solely to get the engine warm quickly and the engine should be at that RPM for less than a minute. Goosing the throttle drops it.
At least I pump to set the choke & it starts right up. after warm just turn the key no gas pedal needed, granted it's warm out see next winter where all that goes out the window?
It probably won't, but what difference does it make? Are you going to drive it in the snow?
Timing was right around 10, we tried it at 5...
Why?! You're going in the wrong direction.
One more time for the people in the cheap seats:
The factory initial timing number on the emissions decal and in the service manual is not Gospel, it's worthless. The factory timing number is a C.Y.A. (Cover Your Ass) setting that only benefitted Chrysler by keeping stupid people out of their service departments when the car was new. The original number should be ignored outright.
People do stupid things with cars. They tow race cars, large boats, campers, and enclosed trailers. They often do do with a full load of passengers and enough luggage for a week's vacation (not possible in an E-body, but I digress). They might do this in Rockies or the Appalachians, either because it's where they live or that's their destination. The initial timing was the same across all body styles for any given engine; a 360-4V in a Duster has the same timing (and emissions decal) as it would in a C-body wagon. In fact, the timing was set well before the engine ever made it into the car.
Example #1: Aunt Eunice buys a 1974 Satellite wagon, and since she's got a 28' cuddy-cabin boat, she needs some extra power. She specifies the 360HP engine to cover the need. She owns a cabin on Lake Tahoe, enjoys bringing half the extended family with her--she has no kids of her own, which explains the new car, boat, and lake house--and is usually in a hurry to get there. She always tanks up at "the cheapest gas in Galena!" If her shiny new Satellite starts spark knocking whilst passing a 427 Corvette uphill on Nevada 431 with seven passengers and the boat behind her, she will be the loudest person in the service department Monday morning. She'll be screaming blue murder about how she bought this wagon to pull a boat in the mountains, and why would it be a wagon if she wasn't gonna haul people too?
The Chrysler Corporation knew Aunt Eunice existed, not because they'd met but because Chrysler had been at this awhile. They planned ahead for her cheap gas, severe overload, high-altitude shenanigans. Hell, they had multiple Proving Grounds for no other reason than testing "worst-case scenario" conditions. Chrysler's testing determined that on crap fuel, pulling the 8,000lb boat, her fat sister & brother-in-law and their fat kids, with the cargo area and roof rack packed to capacity, the AC running and her foot in the water pump, Eunice would have a quiet, pleasurable driving experience despite all her efforts to the contrary. They set the timing at 5°BTDC
literally for that reason.
Extreme case? Not hardly. We had a customer last week who wants a Class IV hitch for their Saturn Vue. I can't speak for others, but pulling a 28' camper with a tippy little AWD wagon with a 106" wheelbase sounds terrifying to me. We won't even get into the failure-prone 3.6L V6 (not "if", but "when") or the weak-sister transmission to which it's bolted. Damn it, they want to go
camping and that's the vehicle they've got.
Not timing for your use case is leaving both power and efficiency on the table. Power may not be a huge deal to you, but I'll bet fuel economy is. With $3+/gallon fuel, I'll take every mile per gallon I can get, thanks.
I'd consider 12° to be
minimum, with 14° more like it. I don't actually set initial ("static") timing a'tall. I run the engine at a speed where I know all of the mechanical advance is in play (usually 3,000RPM) and set the timing for 34-35°. Obviously, this is still done with the vacuum advance disconnected and the hose blocked. Usually this results in static timing between 14-18°. Spark knock has never been a concern, and unlike you, I consistently beat the crap out of my cars.
Example #2: When Lumpy started driving my old Fifth Avenue, Stretch had changed the rear axle. The original was 2.27:1 ratio and the replacement was 2.94:1. The car was completly gutless and 14MPG on the highway was an achievement. The factory ESA ignition was problematic, so I installed a 340 electronic distributor and parts-store ignition box, along with a ThermoQuad and Edelbrock Performer intake. I set the total timing at 35°BTDC. That was a heavy car and she has an even heavier foot. It ran like a scalded cat and pulled down 17-18MPG highway. It never once preignited or detonated (spark knocked) in two years of driving on the cheapest gas available. It was no rocket, but it was way quicker than it should've been for stone-stock internals and factory single exhaust through original manifolds. Leadfoot Lump certainly enjoyed driving it. I never knew what the initial timing was, but I would guess it was 14-18° based on experience with similar distributors. In fact, I think Stretch's Charger is around 15° after he set the total timing to 35°. He's owned that car for 25 years and never heard a spark knock.
I think you'll also find tuning to be easier with the idle advanced beyond 10°BTDC. More advance = more idle speed, which you then remove with the idle speed screw back to the factory number. You'll also have a steadier curb idle, especially in gear.
We did notice the car did not stall when we went all the way in on the mixture screws, vacuum did drop off some & returned to around 10 at about 1 1/2 turns out on each, never hit that 12 mark today?
Is the needle steady on the vacuum gauge?
It shouldn't necessarily stall, but it should run poorly. If it didn't, you may still have too much idle-speed adjustment. Once again, we're back to timing. Try it at 12-15°. Your idle speed will increase, allowing you to back off the idle-speed screw. Your mixture screws will have more effect with a lower primary throttle opening at idle.
Yes, I realize the scale on the timing cover only goes to 10°. That's why I only use a dial-back timing light, but if you haven't got one available there's an easy workaround. Manually turn the engine over until the line on the damper is at 10°BTDC. Take an indelible marker (a fine-line Sharpie is ideal, get a silver one if your damper is black) and make a mark on the damper equal to 5° on the scale. Now when you time it, that's your "plus 5" mark. If that line is at 10° then you've got 15° of timing.
If it's not evident by now, I'm gonna scream from the mountaintops about timing forever. Timing is
everything.
At the header flange I got maybe over a tad over an inch, a smidge under 5, but the new clamp is the new low point at 4 3/4" 
Pass side pretty close to the same #'s 
This operation did not move the motor, I don't think I can get to the next hole on the passenger side, it was a stretch on that side, exhaust as high (started lifting the car) as I could get the pipes?