Then it was on to the gas gauge, took off the kick panel & grounded the wire there, gauge went up, moved to the rear, a royal pain to get that heat shield that I don't even need out, but finally did & grounded the wire going into the tank, gauge moved up. So then I grounded the jumper right where it's connected to the tank, nothing, so it's either the sender is not in right or is just bad.
Next job, pull that & test, but 1st I'm gonna put in 7 or 8 gallons of gas, I think the most I put in at once was 6 or 7, tank ain't that big should read that?
The sender only installs one way. It's keyed.
If you've got a long enough jumper wire, strip one end of it and clamp it directly on the fuel feed line. Unwind a small hose clamp, use a large alligator clip, or even Vise Grips with just enough pressure to hold the wire and stay in place. Connect the other end directly to the negative side of the battery. Check the gauge. Nothin'? Then it's the sender itself. If it works, you've got a grounding issue at the sender.
The tank is only 16 gallons. If you already put in 6-7 and put in another 7 or 8, you'll have a gusher when you pull the sender. Big, flammable mess. Don't do it. You will have a huge fuel spill and a bigger fire.
Make sure the terminal in the wire is making good contact with the output stud. Squeeze it gently with pliers until you can feel the threads grating against the terminal as you install it.
Take your multimeter and check what the resistance is between the fuel sender body (the part touching the lock ring) and the output stud. It should be between 10 and 73 ohms. An empty tank is ~10, a full tank is ~73. If it's open-circuit (infinite ohms or millions thereof) then you'll have little choice but to pull and bench-test the sender. If you have to remove the sender,
use a brass drift or punch to remove/reinstall the lock ring. If you don't have one, go find one locally. One spark while working around gasoline will be a lot more expensive than a $15 punch!
Then the seat belt buzzer, no luck there, plugged the seats back in & first put my belt on, buzzing away, then I latched the pass belt (with mine still on) still annoying the crap out of me!
I have to try again to get to that buzzer, I think it's all the way to the right on the frame of the dash, if I can pull a wire & it does not screw up anything else, that's fine with me!
The key-in and seatbelt buzzer are the same part (3780458). There are only two terminals on the buzzer itself, but there are three wires, all 20-gauge. One terminal should have single red wire (constant 12V+) while the other one has both dark blue and black/yellow tracer wires. The dark-blue wire connects to the interlock system at the module.
Were it my car, I'd unpin that blue wire from the interlock module connector and put a piece of heat-shrink over it. That would eliminate the module from activating the buzzer, but the key-in buzzer would still work. That probably requires the cluster coming out yet again, since I think the module is behind it. You could also simply disconnect the buzzer, which would also disable the key-in buzzer but affect nothing else. The third option is cutting the blue wire at the buzzer itself, which would still allow the key-in buzzer to work but disable the seat-belt buzzer. I hate cutting wires in harnesses, though. It always seems to create problems later.
Thank you sir.
