I may be trying to make this simpler, but it looks like if you just remove the pin & leave the contacts closed you have a permanent bypass.
That would be great if I had the first-design switch, but I don't. None of the later switches used that arrangement. There is no heater/bimetallic element in the switch I have; it's definitely
electromagnetic. If the terminals on mine were wired the way they're shown in the service manual, pushing the button would connect the starter relay to 12V+ key-on (run) position, which would immediately start cranking the engine without twisting the key to start. It would only crank while the button was pushed. The other yellow wire that comes from the interlock module, would then be grounded through the elecromagnet's coil, which makes zero sense since the entire rest of the circuit is positive.
On my switch, it is not possible for the two yellow wires, connected as shown in the service manual (and on your car), to connect to each other. The terminals have no provision to connect. Hence the reason I said this:
...there were two changes to that switch (three separate part numbers in the catalog). Eventually Chrysler supserseded all of 'em to the C-body part, which also has the offset pin. There's a hand-scribbled note in my '74 parts book with a bracket around the earlier-design switches, with the part number "4106798" written. Searching that number shows it's some kind of wiring. My guess is that when they superseded the relay, the connector had to be changed.
That guess is based on what I've found about superseded parts since
none of them will plug into your harness (nor any other harness with the connector shown in the manual). Because the interlock switch was still in place on my car, I would expect that car has the updated harness/connector(s). The switch from said car is the only one either of us has, so that's the one we need to make work. The only override switches I could find for sale online were the superseded numbers. Those will not plug into your wiring due to having the offset pin. I assume that means its internal circuits are the same as mine, which as stated above, don't make sense with the factory wiring diagram.
It's entirely possible that just shorting the yellow wires together will work. I said that seemed the obvious solution from the get-go several posts ago, but the switch had me chasing wiring diagrams. The video somewhat appears to reinforce that. However, since the module is in place and presumably connected on your car, I'd rather not say "Go for it!" and burn something out, up, or to the ground. That's why I want to go look at my '74, because I'm
sure it's wired differently. I was busy on Saturday, and we got some winter weather (snow and freezing rain) Saturday evening. I was not walking 3-4 blocks on icy roads yesterday to go look at it.
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When making adjustments to the steering column, the toe-plate bolts (that bolt the column to the firewall) don't really allow much adjustment. Usually loosening the two clamp bolts that hold the column to the toe plate is enough to jockey the column around a bit, including fore/aft to some extent.
Don't
remove all five bolts at the same time. That just creates a major pain in the ass.
Not sure about these, I think the skinny onesare off seats, not sure what the thicker ones are? 
found 2 more wire clips, how do you use these, tape the wires to them?
& pulled out the heater valve cable, not in great shape, & the firewall plug is nowhere near that gigantic hole I have left???
bout 20 more 1/4 turns, off the jack but still low
15 more
& 20 more I'm close & will stop here for now, if I remember from when mine was brandy new back in the dark ages they sat pretty level, now how level my yard is, is another question but & measured to the front & rear of all 4 rockers & there all about 8 3/4" up.
Drivers side I need to do the corner again, but there's only 1 small lump now.
Passenger side still has that nasty one on the floor, but the corners are much better, I may try & glue a couple of spots at the end if all else fails? 
A set of wiskers, I think for the top of door panels, have no idea why I have extras? 
& when I was putting it back in the box I hit these, now I just bought another set, more money tossed out the window!