Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

I wonder if a pro powder coating shop could help you out with those bumpers?

I've got a set of coated Schumacher headers here and they basically look chromed.
 
I think at this point, with his car it's just not a big issue, 250 for what will be a new bumper, if someone is that concerned about original parts I'll give them the old bent up one with the car!

still haven't figured out why the bumper jack slots are blocked by brackets?
I'll have the floor jack in the car & be honest & warn the next owner (well that's if I'm around to be the seller! )
 
I think it was the right one for the top, when I did the other side I test fitted the shorter one, was just a little loose around the shaft.
So ball joint boots are done AGAIN!!!
brake lines are back in.
Friday is supposed to be warm & my son will be home so I will wait before I put the wheels on & drop it till then, gonna try & get the steering column in.

How long should I let it sit with weight on before I jack it back up & torque the front end down?
 
I think it was the right one for the top, when I did the other side I test fitted the shorter one, was just a little loose around the shaft.
So ball joint boots are done AGAIN!!!
brake lines are back in.
Friday is supposed to be warm & my son will be home so I will wait before I put the wheels on & drop it till then, gonna try & get the steering column in.

How long should I let it sit with weight on before I jack it back up & torque the front end down?
You need to jounce it more than you need to let it sit. Jounce is a technical term I learned at Hunter alignment school, which means to bounce the living crap out of it.

Be sure there's weight on the wheels when you torque it and be sure to jounce it some more after you've got the wheels on ramps (or however you set it up)
 
Gotta be ramps if I need weight on the wheels to do it, not sure I can get to them all if it's on the ground.
I'll try that first after I jump up & down on the bumper brackets!
 
Bumper filler got here, this baby's gonna take some work, at least it will be inside, hope I can get the garage warm enough to paint!
It's supposed to warm up here today through Saturday with temps dropping again Sunday, so get cracking and you might beat it.
 
Well today I'll start cleaning it up, don't know what that will be like. Friday I have a short window & want to get the steering column in, my so is off work to help.
sat & sun look good, at 50ish I can get the garage up to 70ish!
Then the numb fingers come back!
 
The steering column oughta take about an hour or less once you get rolling on it. I put the one back in the Duster the last time by myself. For me the hard part of everything is getting started.
 
I was thinking about trying it myself, wasn't sure I could line it up from in the cab.
then my son mentioned he had fridays off till the end of the year & I figured why fight it, with an extra set of hands it should go easy.
But with this car that never seems to be the case, we will see!
 
I started it through the firewall, put the wheel on the seat, and scooched it up from under the hood until I was able to slip the coupler on the box.

The most important thing is to locate the wide spline. That's where I could use a helper especially one with better eyes than mine.
 
It's not really clear in the FSM (at least the one at which I can look here at work), but the lower control arm pivot nuts get torqued with the weight of the car on the wheels and level. Make sure there's tension on the torsion bar adjusters so the front suspension will support itself. You can approximate that by using jackstands under the rear axle tube out back and ramps or blocks under the tires up front. Obviously you've got to be under the car, so make sure it's stable.

The lower control arm pivot nuts get torqued to 145lb/ft. After that, you can adjust the ride height with the torsion-bar adjusters. I would definitely do the last bit on the actual ground, though it's a pain.

From the time the torsion-bar adjuster bolt first contacts the key on which it acts, count the number of turns you put into the adjuster bolt. Duplicate that count on the opposite side of the car to get it as close to level as possible. After a drive, you can make minor adjustments to fine-tune the ride height.
 
If the column gets in tomorrow, I may be able to start on the front end sat or sunday,
Ball joints are done
I need to do the strut rods, the pivot, shocks & all the link parts & get the cotter pins in those.
maybe upper control arm bolts, have to see if they are crossed off my list.
what did I miss?


in the rear I think all that's left is the front spring bolt, the shackle bolts, the shocks & the sway bar links.
I think I got all the torque specs out of the book!
 
Ground wire doesn't reach where I hooked up all the others, if I peel back some tape it will View attachment 26785Or I could put it on the top bolt of the regulator or right in the middle of the ballast resistor?View attachment 26784
Obviously going into the wayback machine for this post, but with good reason.

That ground wire is for the starter interlock override switch. It is supposed to be under the nut on the lower mounting stud of the wiper motor, meaning the one in about the 7 o'clock position. Y'know what else is supposed to be under that nut on the same stud? The braided ground strap, whose other end should be bolted to that body-color bracket below the voltage regulator. That ground strap existed solely to ensure the override switch and wiper motor had a solid ground. Stare at wiring diagrams long enough, you start to learn things.

You don't learn enough to know how the override (or even seatbelt module) works, but I'm getting there. I had to pin out the override to make sure I didn't wire the wrong parts to each other or short the damned thing (and any related wiring) to ground. That required going back into the diagrams, which weren't very helpful. I know which pins connect to which when the switch is activated, but looking at the wiring diagrams doesn't explain to me how it functions. In fact, it compounds my confusion. Now I'm not sure simply internally connecting those terminals will have a desirable (or even good) result. My brain tells me the way it was wired originally, pushing the button would crank the engine, but I know that's not the case.

Via a process of elimination and determining what gets connected to what inside the relay/override, I at least figured out one thing: Chrysler got tricky making this system hard to defeat. Without going into too much detail, if you just put a jumper wire between the two yellow wires at the override, which seems to be the obvious solution, you'd destroy both the override and possibly the interlock module itself. One of the yellow wires has continuity to ground, while the other powers the starter relay with 12V+. "Hey, do you smell smoke?"

There are too many freakin' yellow wires on these cars! At the override switch, there are two. The wiring diagram doesn't indicate which is which--they're both S2 and both 18-gauge yellow. One goes to both the start terminal on the ignition switch and a terminal on the interlock module, and the other goes to the starter relay. The other two pins are a key-on 12V+ (blue) and the ground wire that goes to the wiper motor stud. The switch is like a manual relay: Pushing it down connects one of the yellow wires to ground through a magnet coil (to hold the switch on) while the other connects the other yellow wire to 12V+. The 12V+ wire is not used to hold the switch, so it's either going directly to the starter relay (which would start cranking the engine immediately with no key input, as near as I can tell) or it goes back to the interlock module and start switch, which would simply back-feed to 12V+ at the switch when the key was turned.

Do you understand why I'm confused? The arrangement makes no sense. I'd go and do some continuity testing on my '74 Challenger, but the wires at the override are very different. First and foremost, there are six wires on my car, and two separate connectors. Worse yet, what's on my car actually seems to make some sense to me... more than the factory service manual, anyhow!

Rusty, I need you to get me good pictures of your override connector(s). They should be hanging at the driver's side inner fender, not terribly far from the starter relay. We may have to do more continuity testing. I hope not, but I'm not sure I trust this manual so much. I know the bulkhead diagram was wrong, which we learned together during the last beep session.

I'm going to go look at mine just for fun, and run this past His Elasticity to see what he thinks. I won't be able to look at my car until Saturday at the soonest, though. It's been dark for an hour by the time I leave work, and I have to hoof it over to the storage area. I might as well have sunlight for that.
 
Darn, I just threw away the old harness, maybe that would have helped to know what they did, but there were a lot of just plain cut wires hanging all over?
It did have the klll switch & a push button under the dash on the yellow wires.
I never touched them, the car worked & probably didn't even know they were there till I tore it apart!

I'll get some pics up, hopefully tomorrow.
 
I definitely need pictures of the new harness. The farm-hand hackjob happening with the old one wouldn't have helped me one bit.
 
Steering column is in, got one little problem, the lever to remove the key is jamed up against the dash? 20231208_125638.jpg
that stud is 9' long can I put a shim or 2 in there.
I don't think I missed anything else?
O ring in at the floor, foam gasket behind the plate.20231208_130540.jpglocking pin in place20231208_125434.jpg
 

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