Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

The steering column appears to be shoved way far through the firewall. The front of the key-release lever should be almost even with the face of the gauge bezel, maybe just a bit (1/4"?) behind it. It should clear the bottom of the cluster bezel by about an inch. Click on the image for a closeup of that area.

100_5436-jpg.26244
 
Yea, closer than I thought I'd be, but with the carpet hangup, the interiors on hold at least till next week.
I guess the A/c could wait, with the old compressor in place at least I could run it.
With the dead of winter closing in I have to get the tarp off my tent, don't want to loose another one at this stage of the game.
I'd like to get the hood on before that, but need some help with that baby.
See how sat goes on getting things torqued down, sun we have a family gathering, gotta see who comes back to the house & what time it is, if I have 2 outta 3 sons here at the same time I may interrupt the party for a half hour!
 
Posting at the same time again!!!

Is there that much play in the coupler box, we had to push on it pretty hard to get the pin lined up at the steering box.?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
tried to get a few angles so you could get an idea which color was in which slot'
I didn't see the black tracer over here? View attachment 26862
Click to expand...
The wiring diagram doesn't actually specify a black tracer, just a tracer. There's a white tracer visible on one of the wires to your starter relay, which matches the diagram. There shouldn't be a tracer on either of the ones at the override. Your override connector matches the factory diagram exactly.

That means it's Roadrunner time... "Beep beep!" Break out the multimeter! Don't worry, it'll take less time to get the tool out and ready than it will to run the test.

All I need you to test this time is the two yellow wires' continuity to the double-yellow connector at the starter relay, mere inches away. One should beep, one should not. I just need to know which one beeps. Wire/cavity #1 or wire/cavity #2, as shown in the labeled photo below:

Override.jpg
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Posting at the same time again!!!

Is there that much play in the coupler box, we had to push on it pretty hard to get the pin lined up at the steering box.?
Click to expand...
I was wondering about that. It looks like the coupler is really far forward on the steering input shaft. Is the roll pin in its intended groove in the splines?
 
Well I think so, didn't think there would be that much clearence for it on the other side of the groves.
I guess I'll pop the pin out tomorrow & see. I think there's about a half inch of groves after the pin slot/hole?
Maybe that last big push my so gave it was too much, at that point I just looked through the hole with a flashlight to make sure it was clear for the pin?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Well I think so, didn't think there would be that much clearence for it on the other side of the groves.
I guess I'll pop the pin out tomorrow & see. I think there's about a half inch of groves after the pin slot/hole?
Maybe that last big push my so gave it was too much, at that point I just looked through the hole with a flashlight to make sure it was clear for the pin?
Click to expand...
I didn't think there was that much room either, but there's a lot of room after the splines. I don't have a car here with power steering to verify what I think it should look like, but on the manual boxes I have the coupler's maybe half an inch from the box. It's entirely possible it's supposed to go on that far, it's just not what I'm accustomed to seeing.

Did you see my previous post about the override switch and testing the wires? I still want you to do that, but we have a problem. My switch won't plug into your harness. You have a perfect "T" shape, which is what's shown in the factory wiring diagram. What's on my car, and indeed everything I'm finding on the internet, has the furthest wire--the bottom of the "T"--offset from center.

100_5732.JPG

I won't bore you with the details, but it appears there were two changes to that switch (three separate part numbers in the catalog). Eventually Chrysler supserseded all of 'em to the C-body part, which also has the offset pin. There's a hand-scribbled note in my '74 parts book with a bracket around the earlier-design switches, with the part number "4106798" written. Searching that number shows it's some kind of wiring. My guess is that when they superseded the relay, the connector had to be changed. That's just a guess, though... don't run out and buy anything just yet. I'm trying to find pictures of that wiring to verify my theory.

On my '74 parts car, there are two separate connectors for the switch: One for the upper part of the "T" (red on my car) and a separate black one for the lower offset pin. The wiring configuration is completely different, too... it's nothing like what's in the factory service manual.
 
Worst case if we just figure out what wires need to be jumped I can make something up here, if I cant come up with a plug in I can just do the wires & hide them in the box, or somewhere else.

I will do the test tomorrow!
 
A crazy thought here, I'm full of those, but if we are not using what's in there maybe just move or if it not used remove the offset pin?
Heading out to do the test in a bit!
 
I looked at moving the terminal, and though it might be possible it's certainly not simple. My concern is that when they changed the plug, they changed the orientation of the wires. Stretch and I rattled our brains yesterday trying to figure out how this switch, wired according to the FSM diagram, wouldn't immediately start cranking the car upon pushing the button. That's why I think the wires changed position on the later switches, hence the replacement wiring package.

I'm also going to look at my '74 when I get the chance, because I know that car ran at one point and this switch was still in it and connected. That leads me to believe that car had the wiring changed/updated, because it's an earlier-production unit than yours, so it would've most-likely had the first-generation switch originally. Maybe eyeballing that car will provide me some insight on how to make this work. My guess is you might have to un-pin your terminals from the plastic housing and install them in the connector(s) from my car. Not a big deal, once we know what's happening.
 
Test showed continuity to the #1 wire you highlighted.

Messed with that steering column, the pin was in the right place, the play was in the coupler box, but damn if I don't have that all the way out & it still looked awful tight.
I put some shims under the bracket to lower it a tad, it might have already been just clear, now there's about 1/2 inch or so.

One thing I noticed when I took the clamp off the steering column went hard right I had to lean on it (sideways) to get the clamp back on?
 
I made a small adjustment on the steering links, the pass side was pointed out a bit, I at least got it to eyeball straight before I put the wheels on.
I stopped there, wanted badly to drop it, but we are getting weather warnings about flash floods tomorrow, I go under out there by about 14" of raging river so I left her on the jackstands till that passes last thing I need is to soak my crappy new carpet, although that might help it! 20231209_145738.jpg20231209_145805.jpg
 
Moved inside & got the bumper filler painted, think it's as good as it will ever be, after 4 coats it still has a few dark & light spots.20231209_150547.jpgLooking for something else to accomplish I figured I'd put on the cowl covers, well they had blue overspray on them, so I cleaned em up a bit & shot some black over it.
Another day for those too. 20231209_151514.jpg
 
I may be trying to make this simpler, but it looks like if you just remove the pin & leave the contacts closed you have a permanent bypass.
 
I never messed with wiring in cars, but I did have some experience with my HVAC work.

What I see is all we should need to do is jump the yellows at the switch, the blue & ground are only there to heat the coil. again I may be over simplifying.
I don't think anything should happen as far as starting the engine without the key being turned to start ?
 
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