I would try to even up the u-bolts before torquing them to spec.
I agree 100%, particularly about torque specs. Very important here.
WTF is that axle mounting part? One of those iso- things?
I'm going to assume you recognize the shock plate, so the other part is the E-body swaybar mount. The end link mounts to it.
I just mean putting them in & doing the plates & brakes, that I'd rather not have sitting out all winter & it will add quite a bit more weight.
As it sits now I can rest it on one end of the springs, lift the other end (with a helper) & kick out my stand, but I'm not sure I can flip it over, maybe stand it up straight walk it around & drop it back down right side up!
You're going about this 100%
the hard way. Trying to lift an assembled rear suspension is a fool's errand, and attempting to lower the car onto it is even more exasperating.
Remove the leaf springs from the rear end completely. Install the front spring hangers on the spring eyes first
--nuts toward the rocker panel--and torque them to spec. You won't be taking it apart again. Lay the spring on the ground and bolt the front spring hangers to the frame, torquing again because this is the last time. Install the rear swaybar to the frame, for good. Tie it up so the ends are out of the way if necessary. Leave the springs and swaybar that way until the rear axle is done, including center section, axles, brakes (
not the fluid lines), wheels and tires.
When the axle is done--tires and all--you roll it under the car over the springs to approximately the right place. Lift one spring up to its axle seat, putting the swaybar mount in place between them while doing so. Don't try to lift the axle, just hold the spring up to it. Put a jackstand under the spring to keep everything in place and drop the U-bolts over the axle. Slide the shock plate over the U-bolts and finger-tighten the nuts just enough to hold the whole mess together firmly.
Now do the same thing on the other side.
Now you just lift the axle with your floor jack under the center. Everything goes up as an assembly; nothing can go in any direction but the one you want. When you get the right distance between the shackles and rear spring eyes, install the shackles. Make sure they're pointing away from the axle, then torque to spec. Now torque your U-bolts. U-bolts are tricky because tightening one nut automatically tightens the other. Back and forth between the two, evenly, until you reach spec.
No heavy lifting, no cherry-picker, and no kicking or other flustering about. Axle's in. Install your swaybar end links, brake cables, hard lines (yes, these are done
after the axle's installed) and hose, and driveshaft. Boom-shacka-lacka, you're done.
There's nothing special or
majick about the fuel line. A 1974 360HP is a 1974 360HP in that department: The same carb, same pump, and same fuel line betwixt the two was used across all body styles.
