Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

So today's intent was to lay out the under carpet seat belt wiring & then try & get the rear carpet done, went out looked at it, with the rain had no place to put the front carpet so I ran away & messed around in the boxes again.
Pulled out the old controls so I could paint the mounting bracket, the goop melted a bit & had it stuck on there nice!20231030_131551.jpgI think they stripped the hole for the voltage regulator, I don't remember nuts & bolts on the other car? 20231030_131609.jpgSo it's getting close to fluids time, got the 10w30 oil, pulled my left overs off the shelf, does this stuff go bad it's been up there over 10 years? 20231030_140523.jpgREar end gear oil, I have 1/2 gal left over, but the guy who did my bearings recco'd using something a little thicker what should I buy? 20231030_141314.jpg
A a stupid question does this screw look right? 20231030_143039.jpgAlso need to buy spark plugs, what should I buy, there's a ton of new things out there, any of them worth it, or just go with autolite or motor craft?
I do forget what # they were?
 
If the brake fluid is truly 10 years old and is not sealed (foil missing/broken) I'd probably pitch it. DOT3 absorbs water over time. The power-steering fluid is probably OK, since water won't mix with it.

I'm not sure why you'd need to run anything heavier than 80W-90 in the rear axle. It's already heavier than the straight 80W that was factory fill. Of course, you'll want to add a bottle of friction modifier, a.k.a. "limited slip lube". It's a common parts-store item sold in small (~4oz) bottles. We sell Kendall 505-7478, but it's a horse apiece with this stuff--I don't have a preferred brand. You only need one bottle.

The original ballast-resistor mounting bolt is a flanged hex head unit. It was zinc-plated new, so if you've still got it, it's likely rusty. 😄

Unless you have a very special or exotic combination requiring something else, put in what Chrysler did. Your engine's pretty stock and you're not going racing, so there's not even a reason to vary the heat range. I've never had even decent luck with any plug brand other than Champion in carbureted Mopars.
The hammerhead at the parts counter (or RockAuto's/anyone else's cataloguing) will tell you stock number 405, which is an RN14YC. That's not the right plug number per the Parts or Service manuals. You want Champion RN12YC, stock number 404, as specified by Chrysler in 1974. The lower heat range will help keep detonation/preignition (spark knock) at bay.
I'm not sure why the plug manufacturers decided they knew better than the people that built the car, but the 1968-'70 340 used an N9Y (now RN9YC) but Champion and others have decided it now needs a plug three ranges hotter than what Chrysler installed. This seems universally true of every pre-catalytic-converter car for which I've compared the original factory literature to recent plug catalogs.
 
OK, will order the champions.

I think he was concerned about some light marring on the axle.
I didn't even know about the limited slip lube, I'll get some of that too!
New brake fluid!
That's the screw that was in there, I'll dig through the "spare bolts" bag & see if I can find one!
 
Trying pit stop USA, they had all three items & the search was actually painless!
got the champion plugs the kendall limited slip fluid & champion dot 3 brake fluid.

they even showed one of those white mopar bottles for the limited slip for 3x's the price?

I wonder how many hundreds of little things I will need before it's done?
 
Too bad you didn't notice the nuts on the VR before painting, you could've welded the holes up and started fresh. Now changing the regulator's going to be a 2-man job, with one under the dash holding the nut.

My ECU is mounted similarly but that's on the fender apron so I can reach into the well and hold the nut making it a one-man job.

Actually, thinking about it, the Duster's VR may be the same as yours. I'll find out soon enough when I remove it to work on the firewall paint.
 
Most times, those sheetmetal-screw holes that have pulled loose can be tightened by just hammering them flat again. Obviously one doesn't want to go berserk with the ball-peen, just gentle tapping with a flat hammer will often do the trick. If they're too far gone, or drilled out (which may be the case with @RUSTY Cuda's car) another option is to go up a screw size.
Using nuts and bolts is a complete PITA not only during installation, but servicing as well. The Chrysler VR is pretty bulletproof, but if life has taught us anything, it's that the hardest part to service will be the one that fails.
 
Not positive on this, but if the ole memory has anything left I think the nuts were in the cowl area, still a pain in the butt .
At this point I'd never get to them if there behind the dash!
 
I had to actually go back to my tear down pics , couldn't find 2 holes that lined up with the bracket, now I'm scratching my head, the darn thing came off near here!
Turned out they are not exactly even & one had a captive nut & the other was just a hole in the sheet metal.20231031_130818.jpgThe reason for the bolts on the regulator was captive nut GONE & sheet metal hole stripped, it broke my heart scrapping my nice new paint off around the holes!
The back was in the cowl & not too bad to get to. 20231031_132539.jpg20231031_134454.jpgSo while I was at it I mounted the coil bracket! 20231031_134734.jpgThen I bit the bullet & started on the rear carpet exposed the rear console mount first, it's a pain trying to cut that jute padding. 20231031_143457.jpgGot the center seat belts & laid out the wiring, gonna have to see where the plugs are on the bottom of the seats to cut those wire holes, cleared the rear seat brackets & the front holes for the seat bases, gotta dig those out to do the rear. 20231031_153724.jpgSo 2 seat holes & 2 side seat belts & then I have to figure out how much to cut off the sides, there's a giant flap in the corner of both doorways.
 
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Started looking at options on my A/c.
I want to use my heater box/evap. coil & possibly the condenser coil.
So far classic auto air shows an under the hood upgrade that looks like what I want, upgrade to the new freon, new compressor expansion valve receiver & all new lines.

Any experiences with these guys?

At vintage I could only find complete kits (their heater box & ducts) don't want to mess in there at all!

Any other good sources out there?
 
Several years ago I spoke with someone at Original Air Group, and he was very friendly and helpful. I bought some refrigerant from them at the time, and talked to them about re-using my original V2 compressor and all its associated parts. He told me they could rebuild my OE unit and get me where I needed to be to maintain a 100% stock appearance with newer refrigerant. They seem like they're into making it cool, either using as much OE as possible or a complete aftermarket arrangement. I've been on their mailing list since. 100% coincidentally, I got this link in an e-mail from them this morning.

Vintage Air is the 900lb gorillia, but wants to sell you their complete setup. Their E-body setup, I believe, can use the factory dash vents, but everything else is Vintage-specific. Considering how hard OE parts are to get these days, I'm not sure which is the greater evil.
 
So I've been kicking this box of splash shields around for a while & I thought what the heck, so I replaced the old passenger side one & drilled some holes & stuck in the drivers side which was evidently never there?20231101_121809.jpgThen I stuck in the ballast resister, are both upper & lower the same, I mounted with numbers upside right, another nut & bolt deal, even that humongous screw they had was spinning in the hole.20231101_125123.jpgThen it was back to the carpet, trying to figure out what to cut off, I knew this wasn't gonna fly! 20231101_123439.jpg
Brought out the panel & the kick plate & took a look see20231101_134430.jpgSo I knew the blue showed behind the plate & with the panel in it was evident no carpet was going to fit under that.20231101_134455.jpgSo the cutting began, cleared around the seat belt thingie & the door edge, probably have to do a little more there to clear the panel. There's still quite a lump behind the foward seat belt retractor.20231101_145337.jpg
Took me a while to figure out which side belt I had, till I discovered one was twisted in the top loop20231101_145540.jpg
May have to cut part of the rear where the front overlaps, not sure the plate can cover 2 layers? 20231101_145837.jpg
Geeze a couple of hours on that, I hope the other side goes a little quicker!
 
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Good parts day but it looks like pit stop is as bad as rock auto! 20231102_121203.jpg3 boxes stuffed with a ton of paper20231102_121421.jpgFor this! 20231102_121434.jpgnext one was a tad better20231102_135359.jpgfor this!20231102_135440.jpg20231102_135740.jpgAnother taped up hole covered.
& last I thought my antenna came, I did order one from Vans, but a surprise in the box, the pump to carb lines, also from Vans! 20231102_153851.jpg
 
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Then it was back to the carpet, got the other side of the rear done20231102_141056.jpg
brought out the seat bases for some weight on there, still a lot of ugly lumps20231102_141122.jpgThen I started making some slices in the front around the shifter, trying to leave in as much as possible, I had one spot on the other car where I could see my red metal! 20231102_144122.jpg20231102_144253.jpgPut some weight on there let it sit for a while? 20231102_154147.jpg
Started cleaning up the condenser coil, will need that if I buy the under hood A/C kit!
4 rounds of 2 different cleaners, I think it's clean enough to paint, may work the fins a little if they don't make me nuts! 20231102_154805.jpg
 
Oven cleaner works pretty well on stuff like the condenser, but watch your soak time. It's fairly caustic.

If you're going to paint the condenser, keep the paint as thin as possible. Use just enough to make it black with a very light coat or two. You really don't need to paint the back since it can't be seen anyhow once installed. The more paint you put on a heat exchanger, the less efficient it becomes. I used a direct-to-metal flat-black barbecue paint on the Valiant's radiator core. I did the tanks in semi-gloss, but they're not proving to be as chip-resistant as grill paint.
 
Last shipment for this round came, now I have to order the push pins!
Antenna is not exact, my orig. 'Cuda had a one piece mast, it did not extend. 20231103_144927.jpg
went out with the intention of laying out the pump to carb line, no matter how I positioned it the bends made no sense, gonna look for a how to video later!
I assume the filter goes between the 2 pieces?
then it was lawn work, poop!
So after that all I got done was to glue my patches over the extra holes, simplest solution I could think of?
2 on the floor
20231103_144106.jpg
& one where they had screwed in their muffler hanger!
20231103_144112.jpg
 
Last shipment for this round came, now I have to order the push pins!
Antenna is not exact, my orig. 'Cuda had a one piece mast, it did not extend.
It all depends on the car's original radio. You ordered your original car with an AM/FM radio, so it was built with a solid 31" mast. Cars equipped with AM-only radios got a telescoping mast. It's as simple as that. My first Challenger was an AM/FM car and had a solid mast. My best friend's '74 'Cuda was built with an AM-only radio and had the extensible mast.

Since you've got an FM radio in the car, extend the telescoping antenna to about 31" tall for best FM reception. If you want to listen to talk radio out of, I dunno, Ohio, stretch that baby as high as she'll go... just don't forget to put it back down afterward!

The rest is technical and restoration nonsense.

Why the different antennae for different radios? It's a physics thing involving broadcast modulation. The ideal antenna for FM (Frequency Modulation) channels is 31" because the wave amplitude, or height, is constant, with the distance between waves (frequency) being how the broadcast is modulated. At 100MHz, an FM wave is roughly 10' in amplitude or height. While a 10' antenna would mean optimal reception, it's not feasible for a car. But antennae work well in half-wave and quarter-wave lengths, so a quarter-wave antenna is a perfect compromise. A quarter-wave FM antenna is ~31". Solid masts on other makes are the same length.
AM stands for Amplitude Modulation, which means the amplitude (height) of the waves changes while the frequency remains constant. At 1MHz, an AM wave is nearly 1,000 feet high. As such, with AM signals the longer the antenna, the better--but a quarter-wave AM antenna would still need to be almost 250' tall.
AM signals can travel much, much further than FM ones. I used to listen to WLS out of Chicago--250+ miles distant--regularly in my parents' driveway as a kid. On a good night, it was as clear as any local station (with my 31" solid mast, no less). If you remember "border blaster" radio stations in the late '60s and early '70s, those were usually 100,000-watt AM stations broadcasting from Mexico that could be heard clearly 100+ miles into Canada.

On other websites, there's a long-standing debate about which antenna someone's car had originally. Guys who bought their cars when they were two years old and swear they're 100% stock say they're AM-only radio had the 31" FM mast new, and vise-versa. I certainly think some incorrect masts were installed at the factory, but the car was littered with build sheets and a fender tag so I doubt it was commonplace. One of my co-workers from decades ago was a dealer mechanic throughout the musclecar era, and I think his explanation solves the debate:
Per my old pal Orange, people used to leave the antenna extended driving into the garage, or an automatic car wash, whatever. The extensible antennas are fragile and would break. The techs got tired of replacing masts, and people got tired of paying for 'em. When dealership personnel noticed cars coming with a factory solid antenna mast, they found the part number and put a few in stock. A solid mast fits in any garage and is hard to damage unless you're trying. Nobody ever came back for another mast. He said he "probably did that a couple hundred times over the years." Happy customers were more important than factory correct. Lending credence to his explanation is that he worked at the local Chrysler dealership, so we're talking about new and very-recent, mostly original-owner cars still being regularly serviced by the dealer.

In other words, if you didn't buy the car new, you have no idea what was done to it before you took possession of it.
 
My head hurts, I do remember pulling the antenna off before every car wash!

No luck on the routing of the fuel pump to carb lines, almost every video they put hose on.

One that came close had the short line on the pump, shot hose to the filter mounted under(kinda) the alternator & the tubing running up the front of the engine, my line is not bent for that (I will try again next time out) both the cars were all hose so I have nothing to remember even if I could.
 
No luck on the routing of the fuel pump to carb lines, almost every video they put hose on.

One that came close had the short line on the pump, shot hose to the filter mounted under(kinda) the alternator & the tubing running up the front of the engine, my line is not bent for that (I will try again next time out)
Sounds like a big block layout.
 
The short line threads into the fuel pump.

Reproduction fuel lines only fit the original-equipment carburetor with which the car was built. Your car came new with a ThermoQuad, which has a very unique inlet position: Back of the carb, pointing toward passenger's side, and tilted downward at about a 15° angle.

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I don't know what carb you're using, but if it's not a TQ the line will require bending at the very least.
 

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