Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
CRC 06026 and Fluid Film are much less messy alternatives for bare metal.
Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress
- Thread starter mopar_man
- Start date
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
All I had laying around, wasn't sure how the white lithium would hold up?
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Not much went on today, found myself painting more hardware, I've been going into the "Extra" hardware so much I decided to just paint a bunch of it up.
Found some foam laying around so I made the gaskets for the license plate light housing & got that in.
Also painted up the gas cap, along with the hardware for the rubber bumper & muffler hangers next to go on & those extra bolts.
Found some foam laying around so I made the gaskets for the license plate light housing & got that in.
Also painted up the gas cap, along with the hardware for the rubber bumper & muffler hangers next to go on & those extra bolts.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
So I'm trying to get the wiskers on the interior pnels before I paint so I don't kill the paint trying, got the short ones on, managed to start one end & then pound them down along the way, I can't even get the long one started.
Any tips or tricks to get these babies on???
doesn't seem to be a left or right the bends (which don't even match the door panel) are pretty much the same?
Any tips or tricks to get these babies on???
doesn't seem to be a left or right the bends (which don't even match the door panel) are pretty much the same?
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Huston we have a problem!
thought I was gonna prep for paint tomorrow, well I picked up one of the thinner panels & when it flexed the paint (prime) just popped right off, so I grabbed the other, same thing, then I went to the bigger panels, doors & one rear seem ok, the other rear cracked in the thin area.
It seems like it stuck to that nasty green stuff, but that didn't stick to the panel? the back of the prime is nice & evenly coated in it.
the bigger panels...........top area of the panel on the ground is where it cracked.
Started sanding off what was left of the prime & decided to shoot a door panel with the rustolium, the orig. plan was base black out of the spray gun, don't want to waste that sooooo I shot one door, a few tiny cracks showed up, see what I get after I sand out those & my drips.
At this point I figured I'd do some testing, shot a little black on a nasty spot on rthe small panel, rusto says it's good for plastic, soooo what the hey give it a try..............
I'll flex that tomorrow & see what happens, also figured I'd better test my repaired split seems so I put one panel in to see what happens, so far they are holding, for how long I have no idea?
guess this is gonna take 5 times longer than I thought, 1 step forward & 27 back!
thought I was gonna prep for paint tomorrow, well I picked up one of the thinner panels & when it flexed the paint (prime) just popped right off, so I grabbed the other, same thing, then I went to the bigger panels, doors & one rear seem ok, the other rear cracked in the thin area.
It seems like it stuck to that nasty green stuff, but that didn't stick to the panel? the back of the prime is nice & evenly coated in it.
the bigger panels...........top area of the panel on the ground is where it cracked.
Started sanding off what was left of the prime & decided to shoot a door panel with the rustolium, the orig. plan was base black out of the spray gun, don't want to waste that sooooo I shot one door, a few tiny cracks showed up, see what I get after I sand out those & my drips.
At this point I figured I'd do some testing, shot a little black on a nasty spot on rthe small panel, rusto says it's good for plastic, soooo what the hey give it a try..............
I'll flex that tomorrow & see what happens, also figured I'd better test my repaired split seems so I put one panel in to see what happens, so far they are holding, for how long I have no idea?
guess this is gonna take 5 times longer than I thought, 1 step forward & 27 back!
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
It's only a failure if you don't learn from it. Don't ignore lessons coming at you hard and fast. I understand that the process may be more than half the fun for you, but don't ignore what's happening right in front of your eyes.
I've never seen a successful color change on the E-body door-panel type of plastic (most kick panels, '71-'74 B-body lower door/sail panels, etc). Black panels hold paint a bit better (they don't turn into chalk like white and colored ones) but they still don't hold paint well. You might well be the first, but forgive me for doubting so.
My Challenger came with four sets of door panels: Three sets were painted (white to black, green to white, and green to black), and the "native black" panels were both rough and cut for speakers. All eight left in a garbage truck. I was wasting neither a minute nor a penny on what I knew would be a temporary fix to a permanent problem. In my experience a watch, wedding-ring, sleeve button, or even car-show wrist band will peel paint right off that stuff. Unless you're a "gently push until click" door closer, the average shut will start the finish to separating in fairly short order. You're already seeing this. @restoman suggested using adhesion promoter and flex agent, which might've prolonged the failure process a bit. He's much better versed than I, but I remain unconvinced there's a viable solution simply based on the nasty nature of that particular plastic.
I admire your determination, but how much money are you going to spend attempting to not spend money? How much time are you going to waste on this that could be used successfully elsewhere? There's still a lot left to accomplish, including spending some quality wheel time in your hot rod.
Either find a good set of used panels (they do exist if you look for 'em) or pop for the repros. Move on.
_____________________
If (when?) you decide to suck it up and buy the reproductions, make sure you get the injection-molded ones, not the vacuum-formed panels. The originals were injection moldings; vacuum-forming is a less-expensive way to make them. I've held both in my hand; injection molds are much better (my car came with a set of new vacuum kick panels--they left in the same truck as the door panels). The vacuum-formed parts look like a high-school sophomore's failed art project. Yeah, it's that dramatic. The injected parts have a sharp grain similar to original. Vacuum parts have a texture like slightly lumpy Cream of Wheat, but with less detail.
Vacuum sucks, pun intended. It'll help you remember should order time arrive.
Strangely enough, looking at Year One just now, the injection-molded ones are considerably less expensive. In fact, the prices on the better panels haven't changed since I bought mine ('15 or '16). At that time, the suck-shaped parts were hundreds less than injection molds--and still not worth it.
I've never seen a successful color change on the E-body door-panel type of plastic (most kick panels, '71-'74 B-body lower door/sail panels, etc). Black panels hold paint a bit better (they don't turn into chalk like white and colored ones) but they still don't hold paint well. You might well be the first, but forgive me for doubting so.
My Challenger came with four sets of door panels: Three sets were painted (white to black, green to white, and green to black), and the "native black" panels were both rough and cut for speakers. All eight left in a garbage truck. I was wasting neither a minute nor a penny on what I knew would be a temporary fix to a permanent problem. In my experience a watch, wedding-ring, sleeve button, or even car-show wrist band will peel paint right off that stuff. Unless you're a "gently push until click" door closer, the average shut will start the finish to separating in fairly short order. You're already seeing this. @restoman suggested using adhesion promoter and flex agent, which might've prolonged the failure process a bit. He's much better versed than I, but I remain unconvinced there's a viable solution simply based on the nasty nature of that particular plastic.
I admire your determination, but how much money are you going to spend attempting to not spend money? How much time are you going to waste on this that could be used successfully elsewhere? There's still a lot left to accomplish, including spending some quality wheel time in your hot rod.
Either find a good set of used panels (they do exist if you look for 'em) or pop for the repros. Move on.
_____________________
If (when?) you decide to suck it up and buy the reproductions, make sure you get the injection-molded ones, not the vacuum-formed panels. The originals were injection moldings; vacuum-forming is a less-expensive way to make them. I've held both in my hand; injection molds are much better (my car came with a set of new vacuum kick panels--they left in the same truck as the door panels). The vacuum-formed parts look like a high-school sophomore's failed art project. Yeah, it's that dramatic. The injected parts have a sharp grain similar to original. Vacuum parts have a texture like slightly lumpy Cream of Wheat, but with less detail.
Vacuum sucks, pun intended. It'll help you remember should order time arrive.
Strangely enough, looking at Year One just now, the injection-molded ones are considerably less expensive. In fact, the prices on the better panels haven't changed since I bought mine ('15 or '16). At that time, the suck-shaped parts were hundreds less than injection molds--and still not worth it.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
It's weird, the other car the panels were much worse,I could dig into the plastic with my finger nail, I shot a ton of primer on those to sand them flat & then used PPG's organasol black I bought for the tail panel to paint them, (no special prep & no clear coat) they lasted 10 years, when I sold the car there was one 1"x 2" spot on the drivers door where it bubbled a bit & the plastic "flakes" were falling out the bottom.
With all the bad stories I heard about the repops not fitting, that's why I'm doing this, time I have in abundance now, wasting materials does bug me (hence the rusto instead of the shop paint for the test) I'll play a bit more but I may eventually cave in & fight the repops?
With all the bad stories I heard about the repops not fitting, that's why I'm doing this, time I have in abundance now, wasting materials does bug me (hence the rusto instead of the shop paint for the test) I'll play a bit more but I may eventually cave in & fight the repops?
b-body-bob
Well-known member
One way to look at it is that prices aren't going to go down unless it all crashes and they're free.
I never liked hard plastic panels where they're in plain sight and are handled all the time. Kick panels get, well, kicked, but they're down there out of sight.
I never liked hard plastic panels where they're in plain sight and are handled all the time. Kick panels get, well, kicked, but they're down there out of sight.
restoman
The paint fumes have cleared so I'm
I believe I said something like "good luck" in my numerous replies regarding plastic panels. It's a crap shoot, for sure.
I've had decent luck fixing years-old plastic, but it's an involved process where no steps can be deleted, it's time consuming and fairly expensive, and yup: sometimes it's wasted effort.
Dirty, UV depleted, cracked and scratched plastic... along with years of Armor-All silicone-based cleaners and more body oils than the local Shiatsu parlour.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Funny I was thinking on the kick panels just paint the nastiness black & put them in, concentrate my efforts on that rear panel that peeled & see how that door panel sands out. giving that a day or 2 more to set.
I'll flex the black I put on the kick today, sand on the rear one & make a decision from there.
More of my craziness to follow I'm sure!
I'll flex the black I put on the kick today, sand on the rear one & make a decision from there.
More of my craziness to follow I'm sure!
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Been scraping on this for 2 days now, still a ways to go
Shot on 2 more coats of black, I just can't put them in like this....................
So the new plan with the nasty kick panels is to reverse the process, if the black sticks good I'm going to try the high build over that to try & smooth em out a bit?
If I didn't mess with a couple of drips on the other door & rear panel I could have completed the test & got the clear on, will wait till monday to start wet sanding those & the first door panel.
Shot on 2 more coats of black, I just can't put them in like this....................
So the new plan with the nasty kick panels is to reverse the process, if the black sticks good I'm going to try the high build over that to try & smooth em out a bit?
If I didn't mess with a couple of drips on the other door & rear panel I could have completed the test & got the clear on, will wait till monday to start wet sanding those & the first door panel.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
So I've been putting this off as long as possible, but sooner of later I have to tackle it, so I dragged out the dash parts & started the look over.
Extra parts I accumulated doing the other car................
Parts I have from this car....................
Got lucky the worst gauge was the speedo & I actually had a nice clean one, some metal parts to paint & plastic to clean up then compare & use the better parts.
Extra parts I accumulated doing the other car................
Parts I have from this car....................
Got lucky the worst gauge was the speedo & I actually had a nice clean one, some metal parts to paint & plastic to clean up then compare & use the better parts.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
So I putzed with the panels a little more, got 2 done, they are far from perfect so the only way I can look at it as a positive is to remember just how terrible they were when I took them out!
next test is will the bad ones I hit with the black take prime, next warm day I'll give them a few coats & see what happens?
next test is will the bad ones I hit with the black take prime, next warm day I'll give them a few coats & see what happens?
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Washed up all the parts & did the side by side, looks like the scarfed parts will go on, bezel is a tad cleaner & has most of the indicator inserts.
2 red ones are a bit chewed up but better than nothing?
Chrome's not too bad on the switch pod, the letters are going to be fun, I'm terrible at that tiny stuff.
got the "brown tint" a little lighter but it would not come off, so I used the old lens I had.
A/C corner not too bad, I think the smudges I'm trying to clean off are the remnants of the old paint, but the plastic looks good.
Did a little better on the white touch up?
Even had some clean lens fasteners, finding these in the tumbler would have been hard!
Other speedo in & "new" lens on.
With bezel, not too shabby for 50 ish years old!
& finally I got the blue lenses taped off so I can get to painting the metal parts!
even got lucky & got the on off plunger to work! 
2 red ones are a bit chewed up but better than nothing?
Chrome's not too bad on the switch pod, the letters are going to be fun, I'm terrible at that tiny stuff.
got the "brown tint" a little lighter but it would not come off, so I used the old lens I had.
A/C corner not too bad, I think the smudges I'm trying to clean off are the remnants of the old paint, but the plastic looks good.
Did a little better on the white touch up?
Even had some clean lens fasteners, finding these in the tumbler would have been hard!
Other speedo in & "new" lens on.
With bezel, not too shabby for 50 ish years old!
& finally I got the blue lenses taped off so I can get to painting the metal parts!
even got lucky & got the on off plunger to work!
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
So some hopeful news, when I first asked my son when he'd be around to help put some big items on the car He said a week from Tuesday!!!
The other day He said He'd be home all weekend, gotta get some, maybe the trunk lid & one door Sat. Sunday is the grandson's communion so the mourning is taken.
Today I was jumping around a bit doing little things, started painting the other door panel, got that finished paint is still wet in the pic!
In between coats I worked on that control panel, tried to clean up a little around the letters & put the trim line on, at least that came out decent?
Also painted the visors & the metal dash parts, one side done, 2 black & 2 clear.
To make me feel better I put on the tail panel emblems, at least one piece looks pretty good!
Door one looks good too but I have to file out one of the holes the top peg is off a little.
The other day He said He'd be home all weekend, gotta get some, maybe the trunk lid & one door Sat. Sunday is the grandson's communion so the mourning is taken.
Today I was jumping around a bit doing little things, started painting the other door panel, got that finished paint is still wet in the pic!
In between coats I worked on that control panel, tried to clean up a little around the letters & put the trim line on, at least that came out decent?
Also painted the visors & the metal dash parts, one side done, 2 black & 2 clear.
To make me feel better I put on the tail panel emblems, at least one piece looks pretty good!
Door one looks good too but I have to file out one of the holes the top peg is off a little.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Visors came out nice, buuuuuutt that sticker is nasty, maybe I should have blacked it out, wonder if they are available?
Got the bumper brackets on, now how many times I will curse them when they beat up my legs ?
Stuck in the steering box, might need a new pitman arm, the shaft was spinning when I tried to tighten the castle nut!
Is that supposed to spin, if so how do you tighten the nut?
Got the bumper brackets on, now how many times I will curse them when they beat up my legs ?
Stuck in the steering box, might need a new pitman arm, the shaft was spinning when I tried to tighten the castle nut!
Is that supposed to spin, if so how do you tighten the nut?
b-body-bob
Well-known member
You put paint & clear on the visors? I would've used SEM spray dye only so they stays flexible. Time will tell I guess.
Do you mean the steering shaft, or the stud in the pitman arm? If it's the stud in the pitman arm, wedge something in there to put pressure on it and try again. Also did you clean the threads up before starting? It could be boogered up enough to catch the nut.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
68 It's the bottom fitting where the crown nut & cotter pin go.
Crap I didn't even think of the sem dye, I used their bumper paint on the filers.
My mind was on matching all the interior colors.
I have to look at a new one, there's no grease fitting on the lower joint, I guess than you don't need a boot there either, I assume that it has to move in there for the steering to work, I'll clean up all the threads & see what I get?
Crap I didn't even think of the sem dye, I used their bumper paint on the filers.
My mind was on matching all the interior colors.
I have to look at a new one, there's no grease fitting on the lower joint, I guess than you don't need a boot there either, I assume that it has to move in there for the steering to work, I'll clean up all the threads & see what I get?
Last edited:
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
With the nasty weather coming I got everything up off the floor in the garage & decided I should tarp up the car, see how bad this flood will be, just once it made it up over all the bases I built & hit a few boxes, then I also have to check the basement, my float stuck on the sump pump last little storm & it put out the water heater, been flex sealing all the seeping walls & they seemed to be holding, if I get a real flood (a 14ish inch river runs thru my property in the bad ones) I'm hoping the pump can keep up & that I have at least slowed down the penetration into the basement! 
Just got a nice big box, perfect size to store all my interior panels, keep em clean & safe until install. they can stand up that's how I will store with some padding in between.
Just got a nice big box, perfect size to store all my interior panels, keep em clean & safe until install. they can stand up that's how I will store with some padding in between.