Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

been flex sealing all the seeping walls & they seemed to be holding
We went through that hell and considered digging up the foundation drain to fix it, 8+ feet down, but settled on an interior french drain into a sump (B-dry type) that finally fixed it. It wasn't cheap, but the basement has been dry for years.
 
My house was originally a bungalow on a crawl space, they kinda dug out the middle, so I don't have a perimeter per say for that, I need a new sump pump pit, there's a hole in the side & the water table is high here so it's always entering, I may find out this weekend if the flex seal ( I'm in 10 gallons at 100 per already) did any good, at least the walls don't seep, that part seems to have worked.
 
Getting ready to put the trunk lid on, wanted to get the rubber bumpers on so i don't crash metal to metal, but not sure which ones go, they sent 4 short & 3 long in the kit, pretty sure I just need 2 of each hood & trunk?
Anybody know off hand which are which?
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My house was originally a bungalow on a crawl space, they kinda dug out the middle, so I don't have a perimeter per say for that, I need a new sump pump pit, there's a hole in the side & the water table is high here so it's always entering, I may find out this weekend if the flex seal ( I'm in 10 gallons at 100 per already) did any good, at least the walls don't seep, that part seems to have worked.
I wish you luck with the flex seal but the thing with water is it will always find a way in if you don't make it go away.
 
I understand that but my problem is only during flash floods when a 14" river is flowing through my property!
Floyd bashed is the old wooden windows (which were half below grade) that was the first time the basement flooded. the old stand up pump (or probably any pump) couldn't keep up with 2 open windows.
I had little ones put in slightly above grade, I went down earlier to check on it, so far the walls are dry,
I have 3 or 4 little Guisers up front coming up out of the floor, I had opened up a crack & filled it with hydraulic cement but even that sprouted a couple of holes.
next flood was the stupid float on the pump stuck I had to slosh through 8 or 10" of water to shake the pipe.
Right now it's just the high table I'm waiting to see if we get a flash flood to see if the pump keeps up.
Been living like that for 40 years & the house is somehow still standing.
Thinking about checking on a new pit to seal off that ground water, but the work area is always under water, wondering how they would cement the hole ?
Been procrastinating about that for a few years now, someday I'll make the calls.
I have 1/2 horse pump ready to go, I went down to a 1/3 because it would empty the reduced pit in about 5 seconds, so it was annoying on & off every 5 mins in the wet season, but to save my new boiler I may have to live with that!
 
Couple pics from the 2021 flood!
Out my front door.............20210901_220808.jpgPump was still running trying to keep up,,,,,,,,,20210901_221803.jpgAlmost got the charger.........side door...............20210901_220948.jpgWater line on the garage, this one got my boxes which I thought I had high enough.20210902_100818.jpg20210902_101535.jpg
 
Man I hate that stuff. Note the rust line on the bike wheel.

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The house was like that (actually worse in other places) when we bought it. Couldn't figure out how that much water was coming in between the floor and wall. Was down there one day when a huge storm rolled in and found out the floor drain was plumbed into an exterior pipe that was plugged up. When it backed up, the first place out was the drain. There was water shooting up out of it knee high. The pipe had the gutter in front of the garage door and the downspout running into it.

When we bought the place there was clothes in the washer and dryer and the house had been vacant for a couple of years. I imagined her going downstairs to do the laundry, and just noping out of it and never going back.

Pipe:
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Talk about water pressure, these are in a crawl towards the front of the house, there was a seeping crack which I chiseled open & fille with hydraulic cement, then flex sealed over, can't be more than 2 or 3 feet below grade! 20230430_174328.jpg20230430_174403.jpg
 
enough water(for 2lifetimes) Back to the car!

So after taking a zillion pics of the removal & dismantle of the dash I've spent 2 afternoons & am nowhere near done.
First I couldn't tell which way the clip nuts faced from the pics so I had to dig out each part to see the direction of the screws. 20230502_140215.jpg
Then when I finally got the order correct on the gauge & switch panels I could not figure out the light bar, finally had to dig out the dash pad & a pic I took during dismantle to finally get it right.20230502_154015.jpg20230503_140712.jpg
Now I had test fitted the glove box mech. Still spent most of this day putting it on the door, first I couldn't get that pesky locking clip in deep enough to pop up & lock it in, then when I finally did it got stuck closed & wouldn't open, after 20 or 30 in & out tries I finally figured that the pin had bent a little, straightened that & finally got the clove bove door on.

Still have a bunch of clip nuts to locate, give ne a week maybe I'll have the harness in?? 20230503_160903.jpg
 
I've had them before, on the other side of the basement, luckily before I gutted the first floor, at that point I was able to repair all the damage, also had carpenter aunts between first & second floor, again lucky, when I put on the add a level the contractors replaced all that damaged wood.
Haven't had any since the exterminator did his thing.

What is their relation to water under the floor?
 
Wet wood is like a buffet to them they will run right up it and then start in on the dry wood.

I can't find a photo of the mess they made out of a doubled 2x12 header here. Started at ground level, up to the first floor, then up to above the door. Things look solid until you start poking around and find the board is hollow, or you start getting mystery holes through the sheetrock.

They're bad here in WV, worse in other places. At least the type we commonly have here are slow eaters. I understand there's a type down south that can kill a house in a year.
 
On the old one they came in through the window well ( which are gone now, windows raised above grade) there was a 3/4" board nailed to my beams, tracks all thru in between them, they even came up under my rug & ate the hardwood floor a bit, I got lucky the beam was good, the 3/4 was eaten to shreds. I have a pic of me standing in the crawl, about waist high on Halloween when the kids were ringing the bell for goodies, I got quite a few double takes.
The only wood that now gets wet is the shelving frames, I took one down for the flex seal job, a little rotted at the bottoms but no sign of the little buggers!
 
So after a dissapointing weekend when nothing got done I finally nailed my son down tues night & we finally put on the trunk lid.

Still needs some adjusting but will wait till I get the new trunk seal in before I attempt that! 20230504_142741.jpg
Also fixed that dangling wire cover, did not want to start welding in there so I got some old hanging strap & screwed a piece over the 2 broken spots. 20230504_145855.jpg
This is under the carpet so it will never be seen, ground down the screws as far as I could get with vice grips holding the screws, I'm sure there's enough padding with the underlay & the carpet. 20230504_145928.jpg
All the pics I took I had to guess at where the wire clips went, at least the metal floor covers had a screw hole next to the big one. 20230504_153448.jpg
Still have these & can't find a pic, thinking maybe the roof for the dome light wire? 20230504_153456.jpg
 
Questions here, I want to buy a new dash pad for this car, it came with a 1 speaker cover instead of 3 but I did that on the other car & it was passible but I wasn't that happy with it sooooooooooo.

I laid it on there but it's been laying aroun so long it's warped a bit & doesn't even go on right.
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Is there a specific brand I should look at?

Is it better to get the metal frame & send in mine ?

Or is the fabricated one also good?

Co to deal with, been doing a lot at year one, some at classic & a little at PG classics, for the Pad is anyone better (other co's welcome too! ) than the other?
 
Checked a few, year one MY CORE sent to them, 1119.93 free shipping back to me.
year one ABS core 739.93 free ship no discount

Classic industries ABS core 549.00

Do the ABS cores go over my frame or do they replace it?
 

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