Any hints, I'm planning to shoot again on Tuesday?
Honestly it's easier to just spray a coat of bse over the whole panel.
But, if you're willing to experiment, you'll need to either use a blending solvent for the base, or do it over a wet-bed.
A halo-effect is metallic stand-up, and gives the same look as if you've sprayed base over too-deep sanding marks, though the causes are different.
Blending solvent is really nothing more than a thinner designed to keep smaller particles in suspension better, allowing them to orientate themselves flatter so that halo effect isn't noticeable. It's only used on smaller spots like you've got here. It takes a bit of practice to get the hang of using it. Truthfully, I've used regular speed thinner (reducer, depending on what your paint brand calls it) with good results, but blending solvent takes some of the guess work out of it.
A wet-bed does essentially the same thing - keeps the particles in suspension until they settle it to their proper orietation, eliminating the look of fringe metallics standing up. It involves shooting a coat of heavily reduced mixed clear over the entire panel, and then laying down the spot repair with the base coat.
Clear thinning is roughly 100% after activation, and it's a one-coat only spray. Base is thinned as normal.
Regular clear is then used as per a normal topcoat, after proper flash times. There is no tacking after a wet-bed, though, unless you're extremely gentle with the tack rag.
Both methods require a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, nib repair is never a challenge.
B5 should work really well with either method, or you can just shoot another coat of base over the entire panel, and hope it's clean.
Golds and silvers are nightmares for spot-blending...
