Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Haven't had much car time, today I got home a little early & headed out, besides the rust I had to clean off, somehow water got under 2 tarps, it went pretty well, I worked on a bunch of small low ares & then on the big one for a while, getting close in the rear, the big one is fighting me!
Hard to see in the pic but just over the passenger seat area is still a bit low..........20220404_170751.jpg
Got all the major ridges out of the rear, still a few bumpy spots but getting close, every time I clean the rust area up front grows a bit. 20220404_170833.jpg20220404_170843.jpg
 
so what i did on the rolled 69 fastback once i was sure it was as clean as it was going to get....wa sto set it on the lawn and POUR rustmort into it and slosh it around till EVERYTHING was covered , after that it got set aside for a while once it looked cured it sat for another week, at that point i then poured in eastwoods version of por15, and just rolled and rocked the roof around untill again it was 110% coated

in your cause youve got the car on a spit so you can do the same thing...dont bother trying to spray it in as you wont get the coverage, you may have to do it on multiple passes as mutliple roll angles to get a full coverage

after the roof was welded to the car the same i went back and got the wand up into the pillars to hose the welds
 
I might try a quart of eastwoods rust converter, (the spray was shit) & put the car on angles that I can run it down the sides of the roof frame edges, I'm pretty sure I got the roof good in there!
I'll have the var upside down for this & maybe some angles, see how it runs?
 
it may be a shot of pour it in and quickly roll it over ..or hell..lift the back of the spit to change the forward angle of the roof so it can sit in the seams
 
So with all that the car was on hold, I did manage to get out there a few days back to clean off the rust AGAIN coat it with some metal wash & added another tarp.
I also removed the extra brace they added it was right under the last big low spot, now it gives me another mess of some kind of goo they put on it?
But then I can work the area from both sides. 20220408_182518.jpg
Brace out, the white tint is the metal wash supposed to hold it for 2 weeks?
You can see the rust stains on the bottom of the tarp20220408_182551.jpg
Added yet another tarp till I get the tent up 20220408_182729.jpg
When I get back to it I think I'll work on the rust area , just incase I warp anything I can do the last of the straightening after that!20220408_182612.jpg
 
So yesterday I went out & finally got the tarp on the tent, so I'm back to working in the dark but also shields the car from most of the rain! 20220412_130022.jpg
 
Got in a few good hours, first I cut out the holes trying to find some solid metal?20220413_110629.jpg20220413_110647.jpg
Then I tried to get some copper behind it, probably to loose to help much but it can't hurt! 20220413_135156.jpg
Took a while & a lot of feather grinding to make the patches20220413_135040.jpg20220413_135047.jpg
then started spotting & grinding away. was doing pretty good on this one.......20220413_145842.jpg
But then I think I hit the lead seam on the pillar? 20220413_152331.jpg
The front sunk in a little on the left , I'll look at it close tomorrow, I may just switch to lead at this point? 20220413_145852.jpg
 
usc allmetal, initialy it was touted as being the end all be all replacement for leaded seams..and to be honest..it seems to do that job like a champ, last i heard that rolled 69 cuda i did with that stuff is still being used lightly almost daily without issue....and that was uhh early 2000-2005?

its also the end all be all of things to use on "deep" stuff that just cant be further worked
 
Maybe what I need for that last low over the passenger seat area, see how far I get now that the xtra brace is out of the way?
 
Checked my lead kit & I had a stick & 1/2 left so I went ahead with that.
1st coat of lead got it pretty close, worked on a few more low spots & tried the hammer & dolly a little on the now lumpy previous big dent! 20220414_151029.jpg20220414_151051.jpg
Got most of the oil canning out , there's still 2 spots that will give a little if I press fairly hard but they do not POP!
Gonna have my friend tale a look to see if I can work more to get it better or am I at the limit of what the metal can take? 20220415_132249.jpg20220415_132300.jpg
Better than the 1/2" deep dent that was there!
 
Sanded down the JB weld seal up coat on that front corner, I think I maintained all the shapes over there?
20220416_154317.jpg
then I cleaned the roof AGAIN & started a skim coat of putty, I think I'm the worst putty spreader of all time, make twice as much work as it should be, worst part is I have not improved over time, so I'll be at this roof for weeks I think.
Ran myself out of putty, next week I have to hit the paint shop, need tons of stuff, the price will hurt! 20220416_161602.jpg
So I started with 40 grit on a long board to see how it would go, got nowhere, so I set up the air sander with some 36 grit, this is after about an hour, got most of my big wads down a bit but a long long way to go! 20220416_175515.jpg
 
Got in some quality rime with yes the car!
after sanding off that first nasty coat of putty I spent a good while dinging down the high spots, nost of which I created with the pins & slide hammer!
today I tried really hard to put a thin coat on the whole roof, did a little better but still had a bunch of pretty thick lines.
Was going to do 80 grit, but ended up hitting it with 40.
Now I'm going to guide coat it again & run my big block with 80 grit & see where I'm at, not sure if I'm close enough for blocking primer, I hope so.
Spraying on the guide coat...............20220420_145258.jpg
The dark tan is the last coat of putty so I did manage to fill some low spots! 20220420_164757.jpg
 
Resto, the gunk that goes between the roof skin & the brace, what's that called, I went to the paint shop the other day & he just said seam sealer, I bought it in a tube for the caulking gun figuring that would be easier to get in there, but don't want to use the wrong stuff?
 
Resto, the gunk that goes between the roof skin & the brace, what's that called, I went to the paint shop the other day & he just said seam sealer, I bought it in a tube for the caulking gun figuring that would be easier to get in there, but don't want to use the wrong stuff?
Back when the car was built, the material between the skin and the brace was just an asphalt-based rubber pad.
The skin was never bonded to the braces.
If it was my car, I'd be using a soft spray foam specifically designed for roofs and hoods, side crash beams, etc.
I've seen guys use seam sealer, glues and whatever else they can get their hands on, thinking that by doing so, it will add some rigidity to the outer skin. The folks that do that usually cause more problems in the long run.
Don't do it.
Stick with a rubber pad, allowing the skin to float free from the brace, or use a soft foam that will allow some contraction and expansion without distorting the skin.
 
I have some soft rubber insulation about 3/8" thick I used on copper pipes, I'm sure I could cut some up & slide it in there, you think that would do the trick?
 
i want to say the original pads were 1/8th inch? maybe thinner...mind you they wouldnt compress much if any

a few things you need to be sure of...that it wont hold moister, and that it wont make noise, and wont decompose due to the heat/cooling going on

the ones on my lloyd were nothing but oil soaked felt, similarly the same thing was found in my 58 ford tho what was in the ford was much more "ridged" and or compressed

im curious tho, why is it "ok" to have the hoods and trunks glued but not the roof, only thing i can think of is that the trunks and hoods have esscentialy a full double layer with small holes where a roof is just a halo with some slapper bars
 

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