My 71 Duster work in progress

I had an old ring compressor last used about 1990 that was just too rusty to even start with, so I bought a new one at Harbor Freight. I didn't think of a set of ring pliers or I might've grabbed a set if they were cheap enough.
 
More delays

Have this style
CB481A-KIT-10-20-17.jpg

Need this style

BSE_2130CP_P04_ANG.jpg


For all I know, cam failures can be caused by blocking off the squirt holes.

There's also a question of the gun-drilled bolt for the cam retainer. Mine is not drilled. They can be drilled (1/8") so maybe. AFAICT you can't buy the drilled bolts.

Some say the hole doesn't help, or it can't help because it's too high on the block and you'd need a river of oil to get any appreciable flow through the bolt. I haven't looked yet.
 
b-body-bob said:
More delays

Have this style
CB481A-KIT-10-20-17.jpg

Need this style

BSE_2130CP_P04_ANG.jpg


For all I know, cam failures can be caused by blocking off the squirt holes.
Click to expand...

I'm confused. The pictures are of rod bearings and you're talking about cam failures. Either way, CB481 is the standard rod bearing for an LA, same as OE design with millions of non-failure installations. Unless something changed with the Magnum engines and you have Magnum rods, use what you've got.


b-body-bob said:
There's also a question of the gun-drilled bolt for the cam retainer. Mine is not drilled. They can be drilled (1/8") so maybe. AFAICT you can't buy the drilled bolts.

Some say the hole doesn't help, or it can't help because it's too high on the block and you'd need a river of oil to get any appreciable flow through the bolt. I haven't looked yet.
Click to expand...

I don't consider it a question, really. If you have it use it. If you don't, it's not worth the worry. I've pulled apart dozens of small blocks over the years; some had it and some didn't. None were blown engines except my '73 340, which had the drilled bolt. That ~140K-mile engine failed due to a valve breaking, so the bolt saved nothing.
 
Dr.Jass said:
I'm confused. The pictures are of rod bearings and you're talking about cam failures. Either way, CB481 is the standard rod bearing for an LA, same as OE design with millions of non-failure installations. Unless something changed with the Magnum engines and you have Magnum rods, use what you've got.
Click to expand...

The rods are drilled to squirt so I'm sticking with that plan. As for mentioning the cam, I was just thinking the more spray that's going on the better, within reason. It's not a big deal, and it might help so it doesn't hurt.

I could've filed a notch in the ones I've got but I would screw that up and have to replace a bearing or more anyway.
 
Checking ring gaps is tedious. I've checked 16 compression rings, and I've got 16 oil rings to go.

I want to think any mistake would've been on the part of the machinist, so if the compression rings check out, they all will. But as soon as I assume that, there will be a defective ring.
 
I finally received the notched rod bearings but haven't done much with them because I've had a killer cold for the past several days. But, I found that for some reason the two halves don't want to line up in the rod. I can get them straight on the bench but I'm unsure how I'm going to make sure they're straight with the rod in the engine. It kind of seems like they have no choice but to line up if they're not cocked in the cap though.

Also having a time imagining how much fun it's going to be to get the caps off because the one I've been messing with seems mighty tight to me.

Regardless, I'm hoping to get back to assembly after work today.
 
Hope you're back to feeling well soon, Bob. Maybe the fog of illness is making things non-evident? I've no input on the bearings not wanting to align. It's sort of a "it only works one way" thing so I'm having a hard time picturing it. Were the bearings all packed together, or each pair in a box? Some come in two sleeves, one is all upper and the other all lower.

I popped apart one of the Eagle 440 rods I bought a couple of weeks ago. The caps have dowel sleeves in 'em around the capscrew holes. They're a very tight fit. Also, I hate spirolox. I hate double spirolox even more. What a pain to disassemble!

Regardless: Tight is good. You want that. I usually tap on either side of the cap, adjacent to the bolt and with my direction of swing inline with the two bolts to work the caps loose, a wee angle at a time. A dead-blow or hard-plastic-faced hammer is good for such work.
 
These bearings came in two trays, in one box. None of them are marked for upper or lower. Last night I had tried fitting two from the same tray, then found out there might be an upper and lower. Went out again today and checked they aren't marked and was able to get those same two halves in straight. I'll just have to pay attention.

I've got a tiny little tack hammer that works pretty good for whacking things in tight spaces, so long as it doesn't take much force - so it should work for this.

Also, that permatex assembly lube might be melting on the main journals. I've got it coming out of the other end of the oil holes. Not a huge deal there because I'm going to prime it all before starting and that is likely to flush some if not all of it out.

It can get near 100 F out there. I don't leave the A/C running, nobody can afford that.
 
It's only going to be about medium hot - stock stroke, E-heads, RPM AG intake. 108 LSA on the cam should make it sound rowdy, short duration should make plenty of vacuum and low end torque.

That in front of a 4-speed and 3.91s in a Duster should make it plenty fun. We'll see I guess.

If I can make it through the cam break-in, I'll be satisfied.

PS all 8 are in now.
 
I was just trying to find head specs on the "Total Power Package" and found this gem on Edelbrock's website:

EdelCrop.jpg


That setup makes good power on an engine it doesn't even fit. Imagine what it can do on a 360! 😂
 
Yeah I saw that when I was shopping. Made me question the HP & TQ numbers they're quoting. Honestly I wrote it off at that point. Doing the math didn't help either - the kit costs more than the individual parts.
 
This sucks or blows, one or the other. I can't find the oil slinger. I can't find a photo showing that it ever had one. Seems like something I would want to install or maybe not.
 
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It's not a requirement, but it's supposedly beneficial to the timing chain. I like them because they're an initial dam for oil headed toward the timing-cover seal. "Nay, errant oil!" before a vigorous tangential toss.
 
I've really gotta start making things happen or I'm never going to finish this

Do I need a new solid lifter to degree the cam, or can I use a used hydro lifter with the guts replaced with washers? (or do a balancing act on the edge of a hydro lifter)

I guess my question really is, there's no harm in using a used lifter for that, is there?
 
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