b-body-bob
Well-known member
You can see spot facing on the one with a locknut. Notice the two on the right are rough cast and it could be problematic getting a lock nut to hold.
My 71 Duster work in progress
- Thread starter b-body-bob
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RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Your thinking that whole rocker was replaced?
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
It's quite possible. Spot-facing isn't something most people do at home. A prior owner may have lost a rocker or damaged it somehow and just got whatever was available, meaning a Crane or MP part, which were available well into the late '00s. The regular Mopar ones have been gone for 40 years.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
It's ready for pickup. ~ $4800 all in. I think I've got everything I need except for adjusters and plugs to fix up the rockers, pushrods, fuel pump, and water pump.
The machinist told me my idea to break it in with the factory rockers is an idea but necessarily a good one.
The machinist told me my idea to break it in with the factory rockers is an idea but necessarily a good one.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I've heard that too but the Edelbrocks just have an outer spring and a damper, at least in the HFT version I have.
I did a little googling and found replacement adjusters aren't really available for the factory 273 rockers, only the Cranes with the lock nut. I'm unsure what I need to do with that. It seems like it would be pretty hard to tell if they're going to loosen up on their own or not.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
If the adjusters are the same as mine, your welcome to them when I pull them off!
You'd be short one (the odd one with the lock nut)
You'd be short one (the odd one with the lock nut)
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
That's why I mentioned the bit at the end of my post.
There's a Harbor Freight version?!
If you don't use the OE adjusters, and you don't use locknuts, the rockers won't stay adjusted.
I think I have a spare set of adjusters. Hell, I probably have some NOS ones. I've got several sets of those rockers, and adjusters/locknuts to swap the OE adjusters out. I use the Crane locknut adjuster screw, but flanged 12-point ARP nuts rather than the monstrous hex nuts. The latter get thrown in the hardware bin for that glorious day when I find a use for them. I must have 96 of 'em already that I removed from other rockers.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Understood. From what I read today, the threads in the rocker are intentionally boogered up to "lock" the adjustment. Apparently if you run a thread chaser or tap through the rocker threads the adjuster won't jam. The advice tighten it up to jam better is to to put one side of the threaded area on the anvil of your vise at an angle, and apply a hammer to the other side to pinch the threads together on the downward facing end, thereby giving them a good boogering and getting the adjuster to jam up. Maybe.
Mr Machinist said if it's just lacking a flat spot for the lock nut, a belt sander is a good way to make one. Or he can spot face them but that's not free and likely not timely.
Oh, FWIW, it's all here now. Time to get to chasing threads. The block is painted black. I kind of don't want to paint over it.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
They are the same.
I don't know if there's anything wrong with mine or not. I just don't like the whole concept of this magic jam nut deal. With the Crane system, I know the adjustment is locked because I'm the guy that locked it.
Before I get too far into spending more money on them I need to look closer at the adjusters, and also make sure they will clear the valve springs on the Edelbrock heads. Apparently some combinations require application of a grinder.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Went through the rockers/shafts today. They cleaned up pretty nice other than the flash rust. I used the same scotchbrite pad on all surfaces.
Most rockers had the full part number on them. I think there are 4 that only have the last 3 digits 380 on them.
I got all the bolt holes in the block tapped. Waiting on a trip to NAPA for engine honey and plastigage, and for my mower parts to arrive so I can get that filthy thing put back together and outside again. Gina wrecked a blade and then that bolt broke off in the spindle when I was removing the blade.
Most rockers had the full part number on them. I think there are 4 that only have the last 3 digits 380 on them.
I got all the bolt holes in the block tapped. Waiting on a trip to NAPA for engine honey and plastigage, and for my mower parts to arrive so I can get that filthy thing put back together and outside again. Gina wrecked a blade and then that bolt broke off in the spindle when I was removing the blade.
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
Rockers look good, the mower sounds like a NO FUN job!
b-body-bob
Well-known member
It's kind of old and used up TBH, so I'm always happy when I can fix it instead of replacing it. This isn't my first go-round with the deck spindles.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
FWIW Manley also made adjustables for the LA
For sale here - banana groove shafts not included
For Sale - Small Block Engine - 2nd Quarter
For sale here - banana groove shafts not included
For Sale - Small Block Engine - 2nd Quarter
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Also I think the crank is good to go for a 4-speed, it's over 2-1/2" deep. (2-35/64" per my poor measurement).
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I'm still trying to clean up enough space to get started on the rebuild, but in the meantime I ordered rocker shaft plugs (NAPA Sealed Power part number SEP 3813052) and knocked out the old ones. It's ug-lee inside there but it's probably the first time they've been apart for cleaning too. They're in the soak until tonight; I bought brushes just for this.
I need to settle on a degree wheel kit, suggestions are appreciated, or I need to decide to trust the dot-to-dot setting.
I need to settle on a degree wheel kit, suggestions are appreciated, or I need to decide to trust the dot-to-dot setting.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I bought the Jeg's kit, but can't recall which one at the moment. If I bought the "heads off" kit it was because I can make a piston stop in 15 minutes with an old spark plug and a bolt, and checking springs are cheap hardware-store fare. Then again, the last time I degreed it the heads were installed but I did it off a lifter.
Going dot-to-dot won't crash the engine or anything; you just may not get all the performance for which you paid. When I removed the God-forsaken timing gears from the Valiant engine, I was very careful when installing the new timing set to see if I'd have to re-degree the cam. It went on dot-to-dot perfectly without moving either the cam or crank. That was a pricy Cloyes arrangement, though, not the stretch-prone $30 double-roller garbage they also sell.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
If it's 100% manual-transmission ready, the green section above will be reamed to ~.940" and should accept a stock pilot bushing (National or Timken PB286HD; most vendors use some variation of the "286" base number). The oilite bushing is more durable than the "conversion" bearing that centers on the converter pilot (National/Timken FC69907, just a Dakota part), but any port in a storm I suppose.
I would double- and triple-check all of the above on your own setup, since information you find on the internet is often worth less than you didn't pay for it. It would really suck to find out it's not going to work when you're lying under the car.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I went ahead and ordered a Dakota pilot bushing. Miles will be low so I'm not too worried about it.
I'll put it on the engine before sticking it in. I might not put it in as a unit, but will definitely check it before installing anything in the car.