b-body-bob
Well-known member
Yeah but my statement is still true. Shiny paint causes stress.
A12 - time to get busy
- Thread starter b-body-bob
- Start date
RUSTY Cuda
In over my head!
I was actually thinking about single stage with all the problems I've been having, not sure that would cure my problems most of which I & my enviroment create?
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Yeah, it might even make it worse because with no clear there's less paint for you to sand through.
I'm also still kicking around what to do with the transmission. I'm OK with the RMVB since it's apparently NBD if you just leave it in 3rd all the time to just drive around, but I'm trying to avoid ugly shifter syndrome and pickings are slim.
It's one thing to use a B&M style shifter in the Duster because it's got bucket seats, but it seems with the A12 bench seat it's going to need raised up quite a bit.
Gina gave me a firm hell no to buying bucket seats and a console for it because that's going to end up costing $2k or more once it's all said and done and I've got a perfectly good bench seat to refoam/recover. I don't know who she thinks she is, telling me how to spend our money.
FWIW by the time I've changed the transmission back to full auto and buy all the linkage to use the column shifter t's going to be up toward $1k. (Presumes I won't find the kickdown used and will have to buy an A&A repop)
b-body-bob
Well-known member
It's finally on the way. They used a 4-point tie down if you know what that is - straps over and around the tires, pulling the front back and the rear forward and I never did see him release the winch so that's still connected to both LCAs.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I recently noticed this on the front edge of the scoop. It's supposed to be a factory hood, based on the underside. This is either a good sign, or not.
In person it's round like a rivet or some sort of support through that center divider.
In person it's round like a rivet or some sort of support through that center divider.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
We went to the body shop yesterday to talk what needs done.
There was a pink 4-speed 'cuda next to my car, a mustang, and an old truck in the shop along with an insurance job. We didn't pay much attention to them or take any photos. The shop owner/lead guy didn't seem like he was interested in standing around and jawing anyway, which is a good thing.
Both him and the team are young and I kept explaining no this isn't going to be a "resto-mod" with modern parts. I found out he has some metal forming tools and skills. For example he's planning to make a patch for the center of the trunk where it's cut out for a cell.
They expect to actually start working on it around December. The idea is to blow it the rest of the way apart, put it on a twirler, blast, and paint inside and out, top and bottom. I plan to have them do all the painting so I don't end up with a can of Krylon and a ton of regrets.
FWIW I've got a policy on it myself along with any coverage he might have so I'm not stressed about sending away so early. I haven't really informed him that it's a 6-pack car yet. It doesn't have the dash in it so no VIN to be curious about. It's as anonymous as any 69 road runner could be.
There was a pink 4-speed 'cuda next to my car, a mustang, and an old truck in the shop along with an insurance job. We didn't pay much attention to them or take any photos. The shop owner/lead guy didn't seem like he was interested in standing around and jawing anyway, which is a good thing.
Both him and the team are young and I kept explaining no this isn't going to be a "resto-mod" with modern parts. I found out he has some metal forming tools and skills. For example he's planning to make a patch for the center of the trunk where it's cut out for a cell.
They expect to actually start working on it around December. The idea is to blow it the rest of the way apart, put it on a twirler, blast, and paint inside and out, top and bottom. I plan to have them do all the painting so I don't end up with a can of Krylon and a ton of regrets.
FWIW I've got a policy on it myself along with any coverage he might have so I'm not stressed about sending away so early. I haven't really informed him that it's a 6-pack car yet. It doesn't have the dash in it so no VIN to be curious about. It's as anonymous as any 69 road runner could be.
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
fixed it for ya
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Actually the only thing marking it are the ghosts of Belvedere badges on the fenders so it's even more anonymous than a Satellite.
Last edited:
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Reviewing this as part of the parts search, did you mis-speak there? I find them listed as different based on the transmission - and think about it, the inside pivot bolts to the trans, and a 904 is not as wide as a 727, But maybe it will work anyway?
I looked at the parts book briefly and it looked like the linkage parts could differ based on the transmission in use.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
Yeah, I did mis-speak there. I think the countershaft is longer on the 904, and I'm not 100% sure about the bell-side pivot bracket. I was thinking in terms of the valve body, which is the same between both transmissions, and of course there's only the one automatic column.
I've also been dealing a bit with the 1970 ignition-key interlock used on 4-speeds, which adds even more confusion to my column-linkage haziness. That shit is silly, hard to find/determine in the parts book, and the photographic knowledge base on it is non-existent.
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
ok so i know the 904 links..atleast on an a body switching to a 727 just means adjusting the adjusters to neer max to get them right but otherwise were the same parts....this is A BODY tho...i dont speak b body....tho i would assume its the same story
but its also been a couple decades since i was in there and did it....
but its also been a couple decades since i was in there and did it....
b-body-bob
Well-known member
I don't know if I'd even mess with the shifter interlock given the way we use these cars. Unless you just like a challenge and have plenty of hair to pull out.
b-body-bob
Well-known member
Part of me wonders about the cross shaft too. Just because the factory made them different doesn't mean you can't get lucky and be close enough to work. Especially given the way the bushings that it rides in are made. If the 904 has enough width to ride on both sides it doesn't necessarily have to be *right*. It just has to not bind up, and not fall out.
I know people seem mighty proud of their shifter and kickdown linkage parts based on the prices I see - when there's any to be found.
I still think changing over to buckets and console would be the way to go though.
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I'm certainly given to taking challenges, and I've a full head of hair with which to work. The biggest issue seems to be finding the right column, since it's a one-year-only piece. Thing is, I'm working on buying yet another car. It's a 1970 model, and its rarity somewhat demands an accurate restoration. It's one of less than 20 of its kind.
From what I've gathered in my research, it seems that guys have used the Slant Six and LA lockout countershafts on larger engines with pretty decent success. It goes something like this: The shifter, regardless of its fore/aft location, is consistent in its transverse position, i.e. regardless of which transmission/shifter you have, it's the same distance from the frame rail on your given model. As such, the A-body Slant Six countershaft is longer beyond the arm that connects to the shifter, but the distance betwixt the two arms on the countershaft itself is the same. The link between the countershaft and shifter is also the same, assuming the same transmission (the 3-speed link doesn't fit the 4-speed, etc.). So, you lop off the end of the countershaft somewhere beyond the bellhousing-side support/bushing bracket, assemble, and smile.
That being (supposedly) true, it would stand to reason that since both the A904 and the A727 use a virtually identical valve body, also at a consistent distance from the frame rail (roughly centered in the transmission), that the difference between any of the three possible transmissions for a given body style (Slant, A, or B/RB) would also be on the far side of the arm that operates the transmission via the lower link. Shortenening it beyond the bell-side bracket should work. The lower link from the countershaft to the transmission may be shorter; I haven't dug into the automatic stuff.
Fun Fact: In 1970, the console automatic cars had the ignition interlock as well. The interlock linkage for floor-shift cars is simply the column-automatic shift linkage. It's connected for the same reason: You can't remove the key unless the transmission is in Park (rather than reverse on a manual).
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
I have to disagree, but it's a preference thing. I consider the '66-'70 B-body auto console shifters hideous, and sloppy in their operation. Add to that the squeaks and rattles inherent in Mopar consoles, and it seals the deal for me.
Strangely enough, I love the console 4-speeds, but in a car like yours I'd prefer no console. Raw Hurst goodness pokin' up from the floor in front of your bench would be the way to go, were you doing a 4-speed (which you're not). I really love the bench seat/4-speed combination in my '69.
69.5CUDA
Blah Blah Blah
de-squeeking the consoles is actualy very easy, the "hard" part is finding out exactly where its doing it..fun fact once you find the spot you can either use a lil RTV to slip in a piece of ultra thin teflon or any otehr type of non squeeking plastic, or you can use a lil bit of rubber...in some cases a dab of RTV will actualy fix the issue..but i always considered that the wrong way to do it
i cant say i even remembr what a B console looks like..the A consoles are actualy fairly elegant units, the ebody ones feel like an extension of a dodge truck dash to me LOL...the 66 charger console tho is a thing of beauty!
as far as the sloppyness...all 3 of the A units ive messed with long term were very tight, the 2 e's 1 was tight 1 was sloppy seconds for sure
doc did any of the E's get the interlock? i half remember something weird about removing the key from the challey we had but i dont remember why
i cant say i even remembr what a B console looks like..the A consoles are actualy fairly elegant units, the ebody ones feel like an extension of a dodge truck dash to me LOL...the 66 charger console tho is a thing of beauty!
as far as the sloppyness...all 3 of the A units ive messed with long term were very tight, the 2 e's 1 was tight 1 was sloppy seconds for sure
doc did any of the E's get the interlock? i half remember something weird about removing the key from the challey we had but i dont remember why
Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
All 1970 cars had the interlock mechanism, from Imperial to Valiant. Of course, it's built into the column so there's no additional linkage/parts on column-shift applications. It's a 1-year-only thing; in 1971 they went to the lever behind the ignition lock cylinder on floor-shift models.