84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

So I've been working on getting my 91.5-93 rad support ready for my install into the crewcab. And I didn't want to spend the extra money on chasing down all the parts to swap over to an IC rad and hardware.

So I decided to use what I have and do what "They" say shouldn't work. I took my Non-IC rad and put it into my IC rad support.

Here's how....

First I removed the lower rad support brackets...I cut the two welds on either side of each bracket, then used a punch to dimple the center of each spot weld and used my spot weld cutter to free them up.

PICT5375.jpg


PICT5376.jpg


Then tried to fit the rad into the support, it was tight on the lower corners and sides.

PICT5377.jpg


So I figured I needed to trim the lower dish shaped bracket and the little triangular protrusions on the upper supports.

PICT5379.jpg


PICT5380.jpg


Did this and trial fitted again.....it fell into place....well it's tight but fits not too bad.

PICT5383.jpg


PICT5384.jpg


Will have to fab up some custom brackets for holding it into place...but won't do that until it's in the truck and hooked up to the rad hoses.
 
69.5CUDA said:
so..wait..your goin IC or not?....looks to me like even a 70s core would have worked with a lil tweaking
Click to expand...

Well I'll be going from this grill....

PICT5051-1.jpg


To this grill....and it's easier if you swap in the cummins rad support as well.

Crew1.jpg


I have an all aluminum IC from a 7.3 Power stroke that will be going in a little later date. Same time I upgrade my turbo. ;)
 
ahh gotcha...as far as grills go i always hated all of the 80s grills gimmy the 70s tin or that chrome one..everything inbetween looked like crap....so that will be a welcome change

what makes the core so different?...i mean i know the 70s and 80s ones are just about the same short of where a few screw holes are drilled i would have thought the same for the 80s-90s stuff
 
The differnces is in the location of the holes in the rad support for the IC piping and mounts, and a lot more bracing. Also the headlights themselves are mounted higher, and out a bit farther to work with the big chromed plastic grill. Yes I could have modified the one I have in there now to work, but it's easier this way.... alot less cutting and fab work. ;)
 
Well yesterday I pulled the rad out of my crew...Non-IC motor and used it to modify the IC erad support I'm going to install....see my earlier post on this for info and pics. ;)

Anyway the first part of my day went well with the rad removal and rad support modification. It was the second part of my day that things started to go bad...I think the graveyard shift the night before caused some of this...[redface]

I re-installed the rad and hooked up the hoses and filled up the rad with coolant. But I got less then half what I drained out back in...Hmmmm? So I fire up the truck and let it idle for a while...still not moving any fluids in. So I figure I must have an air lock in the cooling system, since the lower rad hose feels like it has no coolant in it. I then decide to bang on the thermostat housing to cause the jiggle pins to move and bleed off the air...well this did work a little bit but no where near what I needed. So I figured the new 3rd Gen thermostat I installed recently must have the jiggle pins stuck shut.

OK I now drain the fluid again and pull the thermostat housing and T-stat. I then decide that if those darn jiggle pins aren't working then they don't need to be there...so I snip them off. I re-install everything and all the coolant goes in this time...Yeah I think....short lived happiness. I go for a drive and the truck is heating up..so back home and I'm staring at things with anger and contempt when I wonder if I installed the T-stat in the proper direction. Off course I did I thought...I'm no novice to working on this stuff. But better be sure. Well sure enough I had the darn T-stat in backwards....Doooh!!

So off for another drive with the T-stat installed properly and the truck just is not warming up now. I go for a 30 minute HWY drive...still very little to no heat. Now I'm getting really angry!! SO back home and I assume that cutting those two jiggle pins off the T-stat has now created enough flow through those holes to not allow the motor to heat up. So drain the fluid once more and remove the T-stat housing. Now I have no 190* T-stat, and I begin to wonder if that 195* T-stat I have from a small block dodge would work...well it's a perfect fit! I decide to give it a try.

I remember to install it properly and then actually remember that there is a blind plug on the top of the head, right at the T-stat housing assembly, for bleeding off the sir in the system when you re-fill...[redface]...so I remove that plug, fill it with coolant, and fire it up. I go for a drive and it heats up properly and seems to cool fine as well. Still cycles like the 3rd Gen T-stat I had in there...but no other problems.

If you made it to the end I apologize for the long post...just need to vent a little on my brain fart antics, and other things I learned along the way.
 
Hell, I haven't actually learned how to do anything automotive until I've had to re do my initial work at least twice.:shifty: Ask me about my non starting 93 Cummins, and you'll feel better.:doh:
 
Well today was the day. I finally decided to swap in my NOS 9mm Bosch injectors into my motor. The truck has been progressively smoking more and more since I started driving it 18 months ago. And with the help of the DTR I was hoping it was leaking injectors.

I have never done an injector swap..diesel or any other type of motor. So I was researching, and trying to make sure I had everything I needed before I started. I made the injector removal tool from the sticky last week...turned out great and worked even better!!

Here's my removal tool...into it for about $7....;)

PICT5428.jpg


I had to remove all the lines...right from the injector pump to the injectors. I tried doing it with them just pushed aside but it just wasn't working.

PICT5425.jpg


The 24mm nuts all came out with little to no problems. I had been soaking them in PB Blaster every night when I came home for the last week or so.

Lines and nuts removed ready for pulling....

PICT5427.jpg


So on went the removal tool and they popped out with no problems.

PICT5429.jpg


The only problem I had was with clearance. #1 injector I couldn't get the washers past the lifting hook so I had to figure out a way around that. I finally decided on using a 7/8 box end wrench on the base, then putting the removal tool on top of that. That gave me just enough clearance to get the injector out.

PICT5433.jpg


#4 injector was tight to get out too, but that was due to the top nut on the removal tool hitting the air horn.
 
Once I got all the injectors out I could see that they were in rough shape. Every one had crud caked onto the tips, with some of the orifices plugged right up. They were all never seized so I guess someone must have had them out, or swapped at some time.

PICT5432.jpg


I think #4 and #5 injectors were not sealed tight. There was a lot of crud and oil in the bores. The rest were all fairly clean. So here are my new old stock injectors.

PICT5436.jpg


One didn't come in the original box and was missing the nut, so I had to re-use one of the originals....no biggie. The only other thing I had to go get was the O-rings to seal the nut to the injector body. I walked up to my parts store with one of the injectors and found that an o-ring, 5/8" ID x 3/4" OD x 1/8 dia were a darn near perfect fit.

PICT5435.jpg


Here they all are installed and ready to button it up. I never seized all the bodies, and nuts when I re-installed them. Torqued them up to 44ftlbs and called it done.

PICT5438.jpg


Here it is all buttoned up and ready to fire.

PICT5441.jpg


Took a lot of hand pumping on my piston lift pump to prime the lines, but #6 line just would not prime. SO I hooked up all the other lines and started cranking. Eventually it bleed out. I then had to crank for probably 15-20 seconds before it finally started to catch and fired.
 
First thing I noticed after it fired up was the lack of smoke. I had it plugged in the whole time I was working so it was warm. I took it for a run around the block and I noticed no smoke. Let it idle for a while and it still did not start smoking, before I would have had a big blue/white cloud forming.

I re-used the little copper washers on the return lines. I forgot to mark and orient them before I removed them so I had to just throw them in any which way. So I had a few leaks from those that required a little tightening here and there.

I also had a few bubble coming up from around the nut on #1 injector. I re-torqued that one to 55ftlbs and it seems to have sealed up.

So all in all I think it was a very good day. Will drive it for a few days and post an update then.
 
ive never needed a special tool...but ive done quite a few injectors audi volvo porsche mitsu/dodge alfa ford toyota oliver...some go easy but it never fails that something somewhere will get in your way of removing the whole set...and napa 99% of the time has had the seals in stock or a store away
 
Diesel injectors and gasoline injectors are completely different animals, until you get into the newer direct-injection gas engines 69.5. Non-DI gas engines have fuel pressure below 60PSI. The pressure from the injection pump to the injector on a Cummins is several thousand PSI which means yes, you're going to need a tool to remove them. They just don't pop out like they do on an MPFI gas engine. The newer common-rail Cummins run pressures around 25,000PSI at the injectors, which is common on newer diesels and direct-injection gas engines.

If you put even 500PSI to the injectors on typical MPFI gasoline engine, you'd blow the fuel rails off the engine, most-likely in spectacular fashion.

Cow, what are you using for a lift pump?
 
Doc...I'm running an upgrade over the lowly diaphragm lift pump the motor originally would have had. I upgraded to a low pressure...10-15lbs...piston lift pump. It's the same design as the lift pump used on the 94-99 12V cummins motors that use the P7100/P-pump injection system, but they run 30-40 lbs pressure. If I was to try and run 30lbs fuel pressure I'd blow out the front shaft seal in my injection pump and then fill my crankcase with diesel...:D

The original application for this low pressure piston lift pump was the industrial 4bt cummins motors I believe. But with an adapter plate, a new fuel line, and a couple fittings it's a direct bolt on. Way more reliable then the old diaphragm set-up.

Here's a pic of the pump....in the lower right corner.

PICT1973.jpg
 
Another benefit to the piston lift pump is that it won't leak fuel through a ruptured diaphragm into the crankcase as well. I got mine from a Oregon Fuel Injection...$84 for the Delphi pump, spacer/adapter and two gaskets. I have not been able to find the proper fuel line yet...not looking too hard either. So I modified my original to work for now. There is a guy selling the same set-up...with fuel line for close to $300 on E-bay.
 
Every time I looked up a lift pump for a '98 or '99, it was electric and frame-mounted. My buddy's '99 was absolutely electric; the original failed and cost him an engine. He now has a ridiculous electric pump, I think it's made by FAST but I could be wrong. It's an impressive unit to see, though, I gotta say that. Of course, it cost him around $800.

Aren't the old Oliver engines a pre-chamber design? Those were pretty-low pressure as well, much like the Olds 350 diesel.
 
I could be wrong on the years that the 2nd Gen cummins motors used the piston lift pumps. We'll just say 94 and later then...;)
 
Well I did my grill upgrade over the weekend...to the 91.5-93 style grill. But I'll start from the beginning.

I bought the grill pieces off e-bay many months ago for fairly cheap. But a couple of them were busted up and cracked, and one grill insert was missing a chunk as well.

PICT4862.jpg


PICT4867.jpg


I decided that I would fix them myself. So I happened to find a busted up grill at the wreckers that I was able to scavenge the missing piece from. I then carefully trimmed the broken area and cut a piece to fit. Then cut, filed and sanded it until it was an almost perfect fit.

PICT4934.jpg


Then I cut small pieces of sheet metal as backing supports and glued them in place. I like to use the "Marine Goop". This stuff is almost impossible to break free once set-up...great stuff.

PICT4938.jpg


PICT4947.jpg


After all was in place a cured I putty filled and sanded everything, then used a sandable primer and sanded some more. Then a few coats of flat black and all was good.

PICT5085.jpg


I got the chrome grill through E-bay as well. Just a couple bucks over a hundred shipped.

PICT5087.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top