84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

Well it was brought to my attention from a member over on the DTR that the 89 oil pump in a 93 motor is a no-no!

Here is the post why....

Alec said:
TC, about that oil pump . . .

From the '91.5 and later service manuals:

"The 1991 1/2 oil pump can be used on earlier model engines. However, earlier oil pumps can not be used on 1991 1/2 [all intercooled] engines."

My understanding is that the earlier pump is a lower volume pump, and the IC engines have larger piston cooling nozzles, thus requiring a higher volume pump.

I had noticed the difference in the main oil pump gear size on the 89 pump (larger) compared to the smaller one on the 93 pump. Smaller would mean it turns faster, and would therefore generate more oil pressure....this makes sense now after Alec's information.

So today was tear things apart again and put the 93 oil pump back in. Pretty straight forward, but did have to put a new crank seal in since I somehow fish mouthed the other one....dang those things are not cheap, at least up here in Canada. ;)

Only other issue is I seem to have now after pulling the IP is an air leak up top somewhere, the fuel is bleeding back over night and the truck during first fire up is missing and blowing lots of white smoke out the back. Clears up after a few minutes, and is fine the rest of the day. I removed the lines from teh injectors, cleaned the seats and bores as best I could and re-assembled.....see what happens tomorrow.
 
Y'know, I thought those gears looked like they were different sizes, but I ascribed that to optical delusion since I figured "Well, Cow knows what he's doing so I'm sure it's right." With the larger squirters, oil volume is definitely a concern.

Spinning an oil pump faster generates more flow. It doesn't necessarily increase its pressure, since pressure is largely determined by relief-spring tension and pressure is nothing more than a measure of resistance to flow. That's where a lot of forced-induction guys, regardless of fuel type, make mistakes. Using the exact same induction setup, a well-ported engine will make the same, if not more, power at lower boost pressure number. Why? Less resistance to flow means more air getting into the cylinder on each cycle, which means more oxygen is available to burn. The boost gauge does not measure cylinder pressure, it measures the amount the air in the intake tract is resisting entering the cylinders. That's why increasing boost has diminishing returns. You will not gain the same amount of power going from 40PSI to 50 that you got going from 30PSI to 40, because any flow restrictions become amplified at greater pressure. Bernoulli tells us that an increase in pressure is accompanied by a reduction in speed. Not only that, but the ideal gas law dictates that any increase in pressure is accompanied by an increase in heat as well. Very simply put, more flow means more power at less boost.

That's why I agonize over whether I should use W2 heads on my turbo engine. Yes, I would certainly make more power at a lower boost pressure, but conversely my low-speed torque would be negatively affected by the reduction in port speed below the boost threshold... and the goal of the Imperial from the outset was "ultimate daily driver" rather than "9-second strip terror"--which should be obvious by the choice of car for which all this was planned. :D
 
Nice lesson there Doc...Makes sense!


Well I still have the/a noise, though the tone has changed, and the RPM at which it seems to start up is very erratic now. Also the noise is not so over powering either, more in the back ground, but still noticeable.

I can be driving up the long hill to the area I live in, 3rd gear the whole way up, doing about 55km/h and spinning about 1900rpm and the noise will come in like a series of waves, get loud then quiet and then fade off to then come back super loud for a few seconds etc.

I plan on swapping in a known decent set of used injectors and see what happens. if that does not change things then I will re-seal my spare IP and toss that in. After that I have exhausted most of the potential culprits, only other thing I have come across in my reading is the pivots on the rocker stands....might try swapping them off my spare head. If still noisy I may have to admit that it could be a wrist pin....:(
 
Once back home from kayaking with my daughter, I decided to quiet up my rattly muffler. It's a 4" straight through unit and I have 4-3 adapters on either end so I could use it on my OEM 3" exhaust. The adapters have been held in with screws, then rivets and now larger self tapping screws.....each time I do this they eventually work loose.

While I had the muffler and tailpipe off I cleaned them up, knocked off the scaly rust, sanded and SOS padded them, then gave the muffler a new coat of paint, and the tailpipe was starting to get a little too rusty so I ended up painting it as well to maybe get another year or two out of it.....Hey it's an old replacement unit and I have been using it for over 7 years now, and it was old when I got it. ;)

 
Then I decided I would tear apart, clean and inspect the spare set of injectors Dan (dan123dbl) sent me to try in my motor to see if the noise changes, or goes away with a known set of decent OEM injectors.

Only problem was one of the injectors had stripped threads on the return line port. But I had my old 9mm injectors so I took one and pulled it apart. After looking at everything carefully, and checking and measuring things it appears that the main bodies are the same....Sweet! Only thing I could find different was right at the inlet on the injector, the 9mm has an open port, the 7mm has what is called a edge filter.



Tore them all down, cleaned everything, made sure the tips were not blocked and then re-assembled using 2 cycle oil for lubrication.


 
Your next upgrade should really, really be exhaust, Cow. A step up to 4" would make a huge difference, with the only potential drawback being more noise--and that might not even happen, since smaller pipe exacerbates the obnoxious high-frequency sounds--much like a glasspack does.

Every single maxim about exhaust you've learned over the years in the N/A world gets thrown out once you've got a turbocharger. The turbine is your exhaust restriction, period, and anything restrictive beyond it only hurts performance. There is no such thing as scavenging downstream of the turbine, so the "smaller pipe makes more torque" maxim is 100% wrong with turbocharging. Necking down the exhaust at any point is a detriment. Amazingly, there are still people who parrot the "you need a little backpressure to spool the turbo" wives' tale, which is so wrong it's actually laughable. If you know anyone that tells people that, slap them. Hard. Then stop listening to them. :D

More theory: The turbine side of a turbocharger is not a smooth progression of exhaust flow. It's a traffic jam followed by an open freeway. The turbine wheel is driven by a differential in exhaust pressure rather than exhaust flow itself. I'm going to shorthand "pressure differential" with the term "delta-P" to save myself some keystrokes. Remember the old adage, "Nature hates a vacuum" or "Nature hates a void"? That's because when two areas of different pressures are opened to each other, the pressure must equalize between the two. The higher the delta-P, the faster this will happen. As an example, fill a balloon with air then release the stem. It'll fart its way around the room. Knock the valve off a full CO2 tank, though, and it will become a deadly projectile. The delta-P between the CO2 tank and normal atmospheric is dramatically higher, which generates a far more violent reaction. Now stick a fan blade after both the balloon stem and the open end of the CO2 bottle. Which blade accelerates more quickly? That's your spool time.

The greater the delta-P across the turbine wheel, the quicker it will accelerate. There are only two ways to increase your delta-P: Either increase your exhaust drive pressure (between the combustion chamber and turbine) or reduce the pressure in the exhaust system downstream of the turbine. Increasing drive pressure is a case of seriously-diminishing returns, since when the exhaust valve is open, the spent gases will have a harder time leaving the area. That means less room for fresh, more-combustible air in the chamber. The more-effective way of increasing delta-P is to reduce pressure in the exhaust system. Larger, smoother (mandrel-bent) pipes and less-restrictive muffler(s) will make a noticeable difference in spool time, meaning you'll start to generate boost at a lower RPM. There is literally no detrimental effect anywhere else in the RPM range, since a higher delta-P always means greater turbine speed. The turbine has no idea how fast the engine is spinning.

It's been said that the best turbo exhaust system is no exhaust at all. That's not quite true, since due to turbulent airflow the best exhaust system is actually a short megaphone, 6-8" long, with the sides of the megaphone angled 10-15° off the centerline of the exhaust path (20-30° included angle between the megaphone sides). However, testing has shown that the megaphone still makes a measurable difference when used as a transition to a full exhaust system. Obviously, space considerations are going to limit what one can do as far as following the guideline, but the most-important takeaway from the megaphone concept is that you need a smooth, gentle transition to the larger pipe coming off your turbine's exhaust outlet. I've seen a lot of guys, some who should know better, just install a huge step transition right at the turbo. That sharp step generates turbulence, and turbulence impedes flow. That's also why you'll never see integral wastegates on max-effort turbocharged anything; an integral wastegate's sharp flow angle back into the exhaust stream creates turbulence right at the turbine outlet, which hurts flow and hence delta-P. A somewhat-common practice is to divide (or "divorce") the wastegate exit area on the turbine housing, and create a flow path for its exhaust separate from the turbine outlet, with the extra pipe re-entering the main exhaust pipe at as shallow an angle as possible, as far away from the turbine housing as space will allow:

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Again Doc...Great lesson! :2thumbs: Always enjoy reading you technical responses....makes me realize how much i DON'T know....:shifty:

I will put 4" exhaust on it eventually....but that is still a ways off. Many other immediate requirements for my funds first. ;)
 
I'm not sure if you're aware of this, but Dodge/Cummins was able to avoid using an EGR valve on 49-state trucks for several years when everyone else had one. They did this by simply retardng the exhaust lobes on the cam to increase overlap, without changing duration and lift. Doing so allowed more exhaust reversion into the chamber. It was a brilliant move; they were able to meet emissions standards for several years without the expense of an additional valve, the required plumbing to transfer the spent gases, and the eventual problems either would present.

Commie-fornia, of course, required an EGR valve well back into the second generation.
 
^^^^^.....very interesting info Doc!

Swapped out my stock injectors for the OEM set I cleaned up last week, took me about 4 hours to do the swap last night. Took it for a quick burn and it does seem smoother and quieter.

But my past experiences has shown that after I do a change or repair it seems to take a few days for things to "settle" and I can get a good reference if things have gotten better or worse.
 
One thing I have noticed since removing the M/H timing spacer, and getting my new IP timing gear on, with woodruff key installed properly, is that my engine temps have dropped.

I was seeing the temp range near the high side of the normal operating temperature marks on the factory gauge, now they sit closer to the cool side of that range. Which is where things used to run when i had my 89 motor in the crewcab.
 
Well seems as though photobucket has finally changed things so you have to pay an outrages amount to use their site....to be able to use their site and be able to post pics on "3rd party" sites I would have to pay $400 (USD) a year for that privilege!! This is the "only" option that allows 3rd party hosting.

Guess I will have to find a new site to host my pics....guess all my old pics will be gone now in my threads.....much sadness.
 
69.5CUDA mentioned to gomopar440 that Imgur may be the answer. I don't know about any of that, but it was in response to gomo saying the same thing about BotoPhucket.
 
Yep. I tried looking at Imgur, but apparently my computer said I had blocked it previously for some reason. So, I've got to figure that little issue out before I can sign up there and see how it works.
 
Good options, but I weep thinking about all the time to replace those lost pics.....and there there are threads that have been closed, or locked, so I can't update those. :(
 
OK figure I should update things on Ol' Patches.

But here we go....Nov/2017...

Had to remove the HD bush front bumper to squeeze patches into the garage....and still not much room...but I'm tearing out all the drip rail sealant and redoing it all again. I redid it about 4-5 years ago? and it was worse then ever.

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Still not going to be able to do it properly due to time constraints and room, but will get it good enough for now. Once I have a shop built I will pull patches for a month or so over the winter and redo it AGAIN. This time media blast the drip rails, weld up the existing holes from rust and try some of that good 2 part self leveling drip rail seam sealer etc.
 
Yesterday got the drip rails cleaned out....man that sucks getting the seam sealer out...heat gun is a must! Then a couple screw drivers and a pick or two.

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Once cleaned out then some wire wheeling to clean things up as best I could. Then I put on a couple coats of a rust inhibitor primer with a small brush so as to get into all the nooks and crannies.

Once all that was dry I masked the truck up and then sprayed on 3 coats of primer....one full quart.
 
Today I put the seam sealer on.....man I forgot how much that job sucks! Now I see why the have self leveling sealers...worth the extra money IMO.
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Now I am just waiting for the seam sealer to dry a bit more and will toss on some white lacquer paint. It says you can paint after 30 min....but I want to give it a few hours to set up and dry.

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Will let it sit and dry tomorrow and then get it back on the road.

And painted...

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Dec/2017....

Drove 1100km's last weekend, pulling my trailer to go pick up a quad. Been looking for another quad for a few months now but most local stuff is BEAT and over priced. Guy was selling a 96 Big bear 350, original owner and in amazing shape....only issue something internally in the motor/tranny went "ting" and there is metal in the oil. But motor's are easy to fix, and I got it for a great price.
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Wrapped up for traveling....

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Gift unwrapped....gift unwrapped!
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So that will be my winter project...tear down quad, rebuild/fix motor and re-assemble. Should be fun since I have never worked on a quad motor before....love learning new stuff!
 
March 24/2018...

Yesterday I fired up the truck to head to work and there was an awful grinding noise and the belt was making a hideous noise. Quickly shut it down and popped the hood.....water pump died and took out the belt!

Luckily I try and keep at least one spare water pump in my inventory, quickly tossed in a spare WP and an hour later I was back heading to work...left the belt on until I could get at it today.
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Couple pics....

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So today I swapped on my old spare belt as well as a new fuel filter since I have been having some rough running issues the last few weeks. Filter had 10K km's on it and had been in there since Sept/2017, and when I dumped it out there was a fair amount of water and some brown gooey stuff that came out. Fuel pressure is better now as well. Before it was only getting to around 5-6lbs, now I have 8-9lbs.
 

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