84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

Slight upward elevation rise on the way to work, with a corresponding downhill on the way home? :huh:

It probably has something to do with silly compression-ignition engines, turbocharging, and air density. That's a pretty large RPM gap in the diesel world, though, which is why I wonder about the possibility of a slight grade.
 
Dr.Jass said:
Slight upward elevation rise on the way to work, with a corresponding downhill on the way home? :huh:

It probably has something to do with silly compression-ignition engines, turbocharging, and air density. That's a pretty large RPM gap in the diesel world, though, which is why I wonder about the possibility of a slight grade.
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Actually there is...now that you mention it. I can't figure out why that would effect things? Please school me.
 
thrashingcows said:
But once the tire has reached operating temperature the RPM should correct itself.
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The cooling effect of the wind turbulence created by tire rotation at a lower temperature, plus the additional cooling from contact with cooler pavement would prevent the tires from reaching the same temperatures as later in the day. :toot:
 
I adjusted my valves today, they all were dead on. I think the original owner always had his servicing done at the Chrysler dealership...so I think they must have stayed on top of the valve adjustment.

I had to remove the fan and shroud so I could rotate the motor at the crank pulley so I could use the companion method to check my valves. And since I had that all off I decided to toss on my new serpentine belt.

Also installed new valve cover gaskets and O-rings. But on the way to pick up new O-rings I was driving the wife's 02 Concorde and the friggin drivers side inner door handle broke...Dooh!

So after getting the truck back together I had to make a run to the wreckers and get a new door handle. They sure don't make these as serviceable parts now days do they! Had to rely on my backyard engineering degree to get things fixed. ;)

Then Ol' Patches decided that it did not like it's positive battery cable connection. Had to pull it all apart, slice out a little bit of the cable end so I could tighten it up a bit more. Then re-assemble.

Then it was time for a bath....It was a good day! :)
 
thrashingcows said:
I adjusted my valves today, they all were dead on. I think the original owner always had his servicing done at the Chrysler dealership...so I think they must have stayed on top of the valve adjustment.
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That would make them one in a million. Most dealerships don't even have a "diesel guy". When a truck with a problem comes in, they just follow the diagnostic, replace parts, then diagnose again since the first procedure didn't work.

Roundabout the fourth or fifth diagnostic, they'll give up and send the customer to us. :D
 
Dr.Jass said:
That would make them one in a million. Most dealerships don't even have a "diesel guy". When a truck with a problem comes in, they just follow the diagnostic, replace parts, then diagnose again since the first procedure didn't work.

Roundabout the fourth or fifth diagnostic, they'll give up and send the customer to us. :D
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Yeah not sure why they were all bang on...but I'm not complaining. ;) My 89 motor had them all over the place.
 
Installed my 3200 governor spring today. And reset the idle to about 750 with the A/C running.



 
I also messed around with the idle screw, and nut. Not only did it take me an a long friggin time to get that nut loose and out of the way, but I did not want to have to to try and adjust the idle with it in the stock set-up.

So I started looking at another way I could lock the idle shaft down, but still have it reasonably easy to do.

Here is the idle screw in the stock form...



Here's what I came up with. I was looking for a long nut, or type of nut that I could mount on the front side of the idle shaft. The problem with this is that if it's too short then you won't be able to loosen or tighten the nut down. So what I found was a Nyloc nut that had the same fine thread as the idle shaft. Then heated it up until the nylon melted out.



Then I installed it backwards on the forward part of the shaft. This left it long enough to be able to get a wrench on the nut.







I turned the idle shaft around thinking that it would be easier to adjust from the front, but it was actually a lot more difficult to adjust it this way. So I will be turning the shaft back around to the stock orientation, but leaving the nut on the front side!
 
Yeah, adjusting the idle on the ve pump motors is nonsensically difficult. I hate doing those. Fortunately, I don't have to do it very often.
 
Today was service day. 13 liters of oil , and new fuel and oil filters. Air cleaner I do once a year. Went to grease the drive line and I got one pump out of my grease gun and it ran out of grease, isn't that how it usually goes.:doh:
 
Well I've never been happy with my LineX box liner I had sprayed in a couple years ago. The tailgate started pealing within the year. And I don't know what I was thinking when I had the box sprayed with that stuff....I firmly believe in not putting any type of coating that is "water tight". Simply because water ALWAYS gets beneath it and will cause issues down the road.

So the other day I'm shooting the $hit with my friend, and neighbour, and notice a small nick in the liner and it appeared to be lifting. So I picked at it and this is what happened in about 10 seconds....



Then today I got back from making a run for bathroom reno supplies and notice other areas lifting. So started to work on the liner seriously this time.

Quality product...



This is what about 3 minutes got me....



 
So figured what the heck, lets peal the rest off. I've wanted the coating off for a while now, but assumed it was going to be a big hassle...turned out the crappy adhesion made is very easy to remove.

So took my neighbour an I less then 10 minutes to completely strip the box....







Sure glad I got that out of there. There was major water infiltration under the liner at the head of the box. Rust starting in most areas near the "edge".

Never again will I have any type of coating like this used anywhere on my vehicles.
 
thrashingcows said:
...making a run for bathroom reno supplies...
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Gambling supplies? Showgirls? Exactly what kind of supplies does one get to duplicate "The Biggest Little City in the World"? You do realize "craps" involves dice, not toilet paper, right? :D

POR15 = Harder LineX :doh:
 
Not sure what was installed in my Super Duty, but it was in there from almost day 1 and it was stout, and more than 1/8" thick. I know that because I tend to be rough on my trucks, and there some deep gouges where I tossed stuff in the bed and scored it.
 
I'm going to be paying a visit to the company that did the liner...with the garbage bags of old liner, and all the pics I took. We will see how things go.
 
stretch im guessing it was probbably RIHNO liner....cause i think thats the stuff with the rocks in it for grip and useualy put on silly thick...i know ive seen some linex stuff put on to "close" to that level of hardness....

cow the stuff you pulled off looks WORSE than most of the crap in a can you roll onto the bed...the stuff i did my RC with was thicker and harder
 
Went to go see my diff guy today...doesn't sound good. I think I have to have both front and rear diffs gone through.:(

Not going to be cheap...but I trust this guy, he's passionate about what he does, and has done work for me on other projects. Never a problem with his work.

But now I have to make a decision is I'm going to stay with the 4.10's or go with 3.54's. I already have a set of Dana 70 3.54 gears that I picked up super cheap...they were removed from an original truck back in 1992 when the owner wanted 4.10's instead of the 3.54's for pulling his 5th wheel.

So since I needed to make a decision on what gears I want, I thought I'd toss on my HX35 this evening. I wanted to see how my EGT's and fuel mileage might be effected by the 12cm exhaust housing and my PS intercooler, and the 4.10's.

Everything went well until I fired it up and went for a drive. The turbo sounds like it has a very tinny whine coming from somewhere. And when I got out on the road it will not build any boost. I think once I saw about 1-2lbs...that's it!

I initial just had the waste gate wired shut. But then second guessed myself and thought maybe my problem was that I had wired it in the open position. SO I removed the wire and re-installed the wastegate actuator. Went for another drive and same problem, nothing changed.

I have been reading threads on HX35's and could not come up with anything like my problem. Any idea of what the problem might be?
 
Well in the light of day it was pretty obvious what the problem was....



Tad bit of interference between the impeller and the housing.....:doh: Guess my turbo rebuilding skills still need a little work. :o

Now that there is wear on the intake housing, does that make the housing junk? Or if I got a new cartridge for the HX35 can I install it and be good to go?
 
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