84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

I wouldn't say it's junk, but I don't think it will quite perform at the level you'd like to see from the HX35 upgrade. It might be worthwhile to install a new CHRA for the time being until you can justify spending the money on a new/reman HX35, but then again... that's money you could be putting towards the new turbo itself.

You might want to check out this guy. We bought a reman turbo for a Sprinter from him. I liked what I heard while talking to the owner so I told Art (my coworker) to call and talk to the guy. Art came away very impressed, and talked at length with the owner about some sneaky-ass stock-appearing Cummins HX-series turbo they assemble that he claims is crushing all comers in the pulls down that way, but drives like a baby on the street. He's not some hack-ass slapping stuff together; he's got balancing rigs, the whole nine, and only sources parts from the US or UK. The turbo we got from him was very reasonably priced (about $400 cheaper than our normal supplier) and we were very impressed with the quality. He jumped through the hoops to get it to us the next day, too. Stand-up operation in my eyes.
 
Dr.Jass said:
I wouldn't say it's junk, but I don't think it will quite perform at the level you'd like to see from the HX35 upgrade. It might be worthwhile to install a new CHRA for the time being until you can justify spending the money on a new/reman HX35, but then again... that's money you could be putting towards the new turbo itself.

You might want to check out this guy. We bought a reman turbo for a Sprinter from him. I liked what I heard while talking to the owner so I told Art (my coworker) to call and talk to the guy. Art came away very impressed, and talked at length with the owner about some sneaky-ass stock-appearing Cummins HX-series turbo they assemble that he claims is crushing all comers in the pulls down that way, but drives like a baby on the street. He's not some hack-ass slapping stuff together; he's got balancing rigs, the whole nine, and only sources parts from the US or UK. The turbo we got from him was very reasonably priced (about $400 cheaper than our normal supplier) and we were very impressed with the quality. He jumped through the hoops to get it to us the next day, too. Stand-up operation in my eyes.
Click to expand...

Thanks Doc...I was hoping you would comment on things. I have been going over the options in my head, and on paper, and think I should go with a "good" reman'd unit, or new. I want something that I'm not going to have any issue with for the next 250K miles...;)

I checked out his site...and those are some darn good prices for the units he's offering. And that was one of the issues I was having, I did not want off shore junk that I am going to have to constantly wonder "when" is it going to grenade on me. I think I will be picking up some extra side job shifts over the next month or two to help pay for the new turbo. ;)
 
One thing I was told at the shop when checking out a turbo vendor was to ask about balancing: If they say, "Nah, the factory does a good job" or "it's not necessary, we've been selling them like this without problem" you should better pass. They probably don't have a lot of repeat business. This guy insists on it, on every turbo that goes out his doors... and as you said, his prices are excellent. Art deals with turbocharger vendors all the time; he really liked what he was hearing. He was really intrigued by the guy's modded stock-replacement unit.

Alas, after eating his second VP44 pump in as many months, he won't be buying a new turbo anytime soon. :doh:
 
Dropped the crewcab off at the diff guy to have them re-geared from 4.10 to 3.54, Power-Loc rebuilt, and both front and rear diff totally redone. They were untouched and original with almost 270K on them.

I usually don't farm out repairs like this to other people. But this guy I go to is amazing, and I trust his work and integrity. And with the diffs being so old, and never any work done to them, I did not have the luxury to have the truck down for a week of more, if I was to run into unforeseen issues.

He will hopefully have everything back up and running tomorrow.
 
Just got back from picking up the truck...very happy with everything! He told me both diffs were in good shape, someone relatively competent had been in there at some point. Power loc only needed new clutches, and the front diff didn't even need new bearings.

Re-geared to 3.54's, I had an OEM ring and pinion I had picked up super cheap. I went to a old fellows house to pick up a compressor and when he saw my crewcab we got to talking. Turned out he had recently sold his 92 reg cab dually and had some leftover pieces. I got a mint, but terribly bent one ton tailgate, Dana 70 3.54 ring and pinion, repair manual and some other stuff for $125!

Anyway he only had to replace the front gear set, with a mint OEM set. And he couldn't say enough about how clean and easy my stuff was to work on...such a change to what he usually has to deal with.

All in all a very fine experience! I would highly recommend him to anyone in the area!

If anyone is interested this is his business....

https://www.facebook.com/DifferentialSolutions

or the Physical addy is...

33149 London Ave #16, Mission, BC V2V 4P9
Phone - (604) 723-8250
 
Just got back from a drive with a GPS unit to confirm my current speedo reading, to my actual speed, now that the gearing has been changed.

I first removed the ratio adapter that was in there. It was a 1.04 unit, which was a 4% increase in signal speed for the 4.10's. I then re-installed the VSS straight off the transfer case.

I had read that after you do this you go for a drive, then drive 50mph (80kph) and check your speed. Mine was 67kph. Then divide your speedo reading into the 80kph and it gives me 1.194. So I need a ratio adapter with approx a 1.2 over drive ratio, or 20% increase in signal speed for my speedo to be accurate.

I'm going to the wreckers in a bit to see if I can find anything. ;)
 
Well yesterday I received my ratio adapter for my speedo. I figured out that I needed a +20% VSS signal to get my speedo to read right.

I went with PATC. Very happy with their service and product.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm

Here's some pics...

Original and new unit....



And the ratio on the OEM unit. The 1.04 equals a +4% VSS signal.



And the new ratio at 1.20. So +20% VSS signal.

 
The ratio adapter from PATC must be a generic piece to service more then one application. SO it came with a small adapter kit as well.

I needed the square head for the transfer case side...





And the VSS side I needed the plastic insert so it would except the VSS square drive shaft. You can see it in the back ground.



And installed and ready to go.

 
Looks like if it was any bigger there wouldn't be room. Nice stuff though. I'll have to keep that in mind. I may need something like that for the Oakland roadster.
 
Stretch said:
Looks like if it was any bigger there wouldn't be room. Nice stuff though. I'll have to keep that in mind. I may need something like that for the Oakland roadster.
Click to expand...

The instructions that came with the ratio adapter said I could have switched the housing to match the OEM offset by removing the 4 housing screws, then flipping the housing and tightening everything back down. But there is actually more clearance there then the pic implies. ;)
 
Today I finally decided to get off my duff and make a spacer for my throttle pedal. When I installed the new carpet I added extra sound deadening and insulation, and the skinny pedal has never had full travel.

So I dug out some hard fiberglass pieces I had laying around. Scraps form my neighbour who's a commercial fiberglass guy. The pieces I used was about 7/16" thick. Used a spare pedal assembly to mark off the piece I needed. Little cutting and drilling got me this.





Needed a little fine tuning to clear the firewall insulation. Then I cut a piece of neoprene foam gasket material and applied it to the firewall side to help seal out the elements.



Once that was done I moved the ball on the IP arm to the inner hole, and then re-adjusted the throttle assemblies. Much better now...have full throttle and barely have to press the pedal to make it go.

I also decided to spin my fuel pin to the deep side while I was right there. Went for a quick drive around the block and it seemed to have a little more grunt. Probably the combo of full throttle travel, and the extra fuel being supplied to the motor.
 
Yesterday I installed the aluminum upper wheel opening mouldings from the 84 side trim. I have been debating if I should run the 91-93 big black wheel opening flares. But after my last junk yard run and seeing the dodge rams and dakota with front and rear wheel rot due to these types of flairs, I couldn't justify putting them back on. Especially since this is my daily drivers.

I also installed my aluminum mud flaps. And today I gave Ol' Patch's a bath and some fixes hear and there, mostly where water was leaking in, and some surface rust had started.



 
cow..i think you need the FULL trim or no trim..i know the full trim is rather hard to find tho...the "half" trim imo only works if you have the belt trim along with it
 
If I could find a source for full wheel opening mouldings I would put them on. But it's either these, or nothing, I don't want to run the big black plastic flares.
 
unless you had meaty tires and more lift....but imo even with those things the flares still never looked good
 
They shut the power off in my neighbourhood today....Hydro upgrades. So I took the opportunity to build my Headlight relay system.

Now my donor 93 for my crewcab was a Canadian truck, so it came with DRL (Daytime Running Lights). So I had to use a different wiring schematic.

I used this one written up y Jim Lane over on the DTR....

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...s-t310460.html

Unfortunately there are a few bugs to work out. DRL don't work, and the High beam indicator on the dash stays on all the time.
 
Dr.Jass said:
Chances are the wiring would've been fine, really. A lot of the wiring on these cars is not what an engineer would specify but can carry far more amps than one would think and do it safely. If the wire on the left is a 10 gauge, then the one on the right appears to be 14, and if it's a 12 then I'd say the one on the right is 16. There's no such thing as 10/12 gauge, it's one or the other and the difference is significant. As an example, though, my power-hog room air conditioner in the garage has 14 gauge wiring (the original cord), and methinks that draws a tad more amperage than a pair of high-beams, at 110V to boot.

As far as the DRLs, the reason you were getting the buzzing was because of how they're run. DRLs don't run at full brightness and the way the engineers did that was to lower the voltage. Since the H4 system is designed to operate at 12V-15V, the relays probably didn't have volts enough to keep the coils engaged, causing them to flutter at high speed, which makes them buzz like that (the headlamp-door relay in the Black Bitch did the exact-same thing when the contact points in the motor were burnt). The headlamps were dimmer than normal because they were being pulse-width modulated by the fluttering relays. Suffice to say, the failure of the DRLs to function correctly was in no way a reflection on the kit itself. Blame idiotic laws and the half-assed engineering used to comply with them. :doh:

I wish you'd have asked about this prior to buying the kit. You may still be able to make the bits work, assuming it has the right parts...

So, how could you make this work? Pretty simple, really. You must use 5-pin relays and sockets, just wired a little differently. Using the standard markings on automotive Bosch-style relays, you'll want your original headlamp low-beam 12V+ run to pin 87a, which should be the center pin. Your output + wire to the headlamp bulbs should be on the pin marked "30". Pin 87 should run to 12V+ BAT (constant) or 12V+ IGN ON, (if you don't want them to work with the key off). Pins 85 and 86 are your pull-in (trigger) coil, so they can be reversed, but one should go to ground (and probably already does) and the other, which would be your H4 trigger, should be routed off the positive wire for your park or side-marker lamps rather than the original low-beam positive. With the headlamps off, your original low-voltage signal now comes through the relay at rest, so your DRLs work as designed. When you switch on the headlamps, the park lamps illuminate and will send a full 12V signal to the relay, which will then engage full battery voltage to the low beams. That's the easy way, and the easy way always has a drawback. In this case you won't have just a park-lamp only setting on your headlamp switch anymore. If that's a problem, simply run your trigger wire(s) to the headlamp output wire on your headlamp switch. I'm pretty sure you didn't jump this massive project without a service manual, so it should be pretty easy to determine where to tap with the factory diagram. In fact, the headlamp-switch pinout should be the same from about 1965 through 1993, if not even later.

Quick recap:
30 = Headlamp low-beam positive wire to bulb (relay output)
87 = 12V+, either battery or ignition on (your preference)
87a = Original low-beam positive wire from truck wiring (relay input)
85/86 = One to ground, the other to one to park-lamp + wire or headlamp + at switch (this is simply an electromagnet, so polarity doesn't matter)

It must be wired exactly as described or it will not work correctly. Follow to the letter, and you've got both wicked beams and legal compliance with no silly buzzing noises or strange illumination. :dance:

Now tell me you love me. :D
Click to expand...

Dr.Jass said:
Very-quick PhotoShop job on an existing diagram:

View attachment 17401

Pin 87a is normally closed, meaning it'll pass the DRL voltage through when the relay is at rest... no different than the old system. When the relay is activated, that circuit goes open (breaks) and the voltage now passes from pin 87 to pin 30. Make sense now?

It's kind of bass-ackward because most people think of 30 as the "power in" terminal, with 87 and 87a being used for the load(s). We're just wiring it the other way, and the relay doesn't give a maple-flavored poop stick one way or the other.
Click to expand...

Doc...I'm going to give your system a try and see what happens. ;)
 
Dr.Jass said:
Very-quick PhotoShop job on an existing diagram:

View attachment 17401

Pin 87a is normally closed, meaning it'll pass the DRL voltage through when the relay is at rest... no different than the old system. When the relay is activated, that circuit goes open (breaks) and the voltage now passes from pin 87 to pin 30. Make sense now?

It's kind of bass-ackward because most people think of 30 as the "power in" terminal, with 87 and 87a being used for the load(s). We're just wiring it the other way, and the relay doesn't give a maple-flavored poop stick one way or the other.
Click to expand...

That makes perfect sense. Instead of switching a single power feed between two different loads, as most think of doing with a relay, you're just switching two different power feeds to a single load. Cool!
 
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