84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

Yes, but "Would it have cleaned the corrosion they caused?" is the real question. A friend went through this with his '77 Pontiac Phoenix (Chevy Nova with a Groucho disguise) after the lines were left off when he swapped from a V6 to a 455... and he'd refilled it with R12. You could still do that easily in 1996.
 
Playing with the AC again this after noon...100+*F today, and humid as heck!!

Anyway the AC charge was low...turned out the cap on the retrofit adapter valves was a tad too long and it was hitting the schrader valve just enough to allow it to slowly bleed off....DoooHHH!

So got that figured out, then charged it back up. Still only getting tepid air out of the vents. Was checking the Heater hose shut off valve, and it seemed to be working properly, but I thought I may as well just remove it and double check. Well it wasn't stopping any coolant flow. It would move properly, and appeared to be functioning, but whatever was inside the valve to shut down the flow of coolant was rotted, or missing. I had another valve...but it was the same. So the coolant lines got disconnected and looped together.

So we will see if the AC works a bit better now that I don't have steaming hot coolant entering the cab.[redface]

So those who are having cooling issues with your AC...try checking this valve first. Even if it "appears" to be working, it very well might be non functional inside.
 
Well with the heater hose routed around on itself now, that valve is a bit redundant now. :) I might go look at one at the wreckers and see what I think...before I drop money on a new one.
 
Went for a bit of a drive today...110*F out there today! I was getting cold air, but I think the cab of the truck only got down to around maybe 72-75*F? It was comfortable, but not cool in there.

I was concerned a couple times because I heard this roaring sound. Turns out my fan clutch is working just fine...it's locking up into "Severe Duty" and pulling a ton of air.
 
i hate that severe duty sound..the f350 loves to do that when haulin

i still wonder if the pump needs to have a different pully ratio to help make up for the swap
 
If you got the temperature of the truck 35° or more below ambient on a 110° day, you're just being overly picky. :D I don't think you got it anywhere near that low, to be honest. On a 90° day, walking into my house with the AC set on 76° is like stepping into a refrigerator.
 
A quick way to see if a heater control valve is letting hot coolant through is to pinch the living shit out of one hose or the other, thus positively cutting off coolant flow through the core. If the dumbness with heat ceases, you know what the problem is.
 
Dr.Jass said:
If you got the temperature of the truck 35° or more below ambient on a 110° day, you're just being overly picky. :D I don't think you got it anywhere near that low, to be honest. On a 90° day, walking into my house with the AC set on 76° is like stepping into a refrigerator.
Click to expand...

I was guessing....It could have been warmer then that. Maybe in the low 80's then? Will have to see if I have a thermometer I can use in the cab to check.
 
Went for a drive up to a lake with my daughters today to go swimming. Dirt road in and out from the lake. Lots of noises coming from the truck. Thought for sure the front end was coming apart.....:(.....:)

So after dinner I crawled around checking everything, making sure nothing was coming loose etc. Well my battery hold down had worked it's self loose, and the battery was close to falling down in behind the tray. Also one of the bolts holding the end link in place on the front sway bar was missing....the other one was finger tight. So these got fixed this evening.

Some of the Noises that I could identify are coming from the front outer brake pads...loose and jiggling against the calipers. The skid plate is rattling against the tranny mount. The air cleaner assembly is making noises in it's OEM bracket. These will get fixed this weekend.

But other then that it was a nice day out with the kids.

Here are a couple pics....forgot my good camera, had to use my phone.



 
cow...tell me thats an optical ilusion that your truck looks like its sagging in the middle....take some shim out of the rear of the bed
 
69.5CUDA said:
cow...tell me thats an optical ilusion that your truck looks like its sagging in the middle....
Click to expand...

Looks straight to me. :hmmm:


IMG-20140715-00153_zps355b8317.jpg

Although the different moldings on the tops of the rear doors create a look of drooping. :huh:
 
I remember wedging a big screwdriver between the outer pad and the hub then tapping the upper pad ears over to lock them into place. Boy that brings back memories.
 
The LH rear corner of the frame I think is bent upwards a little. It has always sat high at that corner, and gives the illusion of a sagging/bent frame. The passenger side is fine...looks nice and level. :) Should probably take it down to a frame shop and have it straightened.

74dartsport...that is how I figure I'll tighten up those outer pads....thanks for the confirmation though. ;)
 
OK I decided to try and be lazy....I ordered one of those H4 headlight relay kits off E-bay. Wondered about the quality of these kits so I paid $15 shipped....so not out too much. ;)

Here are a couple pics of the kit I ordered....





Well decided to install it quickly and see what happened. My 93 donor was a Canadian truck, so it came with the daytime running lights...which still work properly. So I hooked up the system with the primary hook up on the passenger side, since that is where the main power for the DRL come from.

The high and low beams seemed to work fine. But when I shut off the lights, and then moved the truck to get the DRL to come on..(Yup it needs to sense movement or they will to come on). The relays in the system were buzzing like crazy, and only the drivers side would light up. The passenger side was very, very dim...just a slight glow in the bulb.
 
So guess it's a no go. But what really got me was that I was feeling the wires, and even though they looked like 10/12ga...they were really soft. So I decided, since I was not going to be using the kit, to open up the main power wire. Wow what a deception they have going on there!

Here is a 10/12 gauge piece of wire on teh left, and the "10/12ga" wire from the kit on the right.



I actually measured the wire strand and if it's 18ga I think you'd be lucky. All coating on the wire to make it look bigger then it really is.
 
I made my decision as soon as I 'read' the 4th, 5th and 6th lines on the box. :doh:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top