84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

My money says that even if the pinion bearing(s) come up bad, the gears are probably fine with that few miles on them. You'd have shat a brick had you seen the internals from the axle out of the Black Bitch, and that sucker was silent. The wear pattern was "everything is shiny!" and the axle had nearly 200,000 miles on it without so much as a fluid change. There was literally no discernable wear pattern on the gears--all the teeth on both ring and pinion looked like chrome end-to-end... and they were quiet as a church mouse when reinstalled into another housing. :D
 
The Bitch was an 8.75", yes... weaker center casting, smaller gears, far less robust overall and probably far more abuse than Cow's axle. So, if those gears were quiet and functional with that kind of beating on them, chances are there's no problem with the much-larger gears in TC's truck.
 
When I crawled under the truck to check the pinion bearing....I found the rear weld on yoke on the driveshaft is loose AGAIN!! I don't know if I've just gotten a rotten spicer U-joint, or another bad yoke....but I'm pissed!

As for the pinion bearing. Didn't get that far...since the bad U-joint area spun me into a rage![smilie=l:
 
Yeah, I can see that pissing a fella right off. That sucks, man... you really need to find a different driveline shop. At this point it's worth the expense of shipping.
 
I was under the truck last night, and discovered the b@st@rd didn't grease any of the splined slip joints!! My front drive shaft was bone dry! And the rear one had a tiny little dollop of grease.

So I'm going back there to ream him a new one, and tell him I'm going to be filing a complaint with the BBB. Then I'm going to post up his company info on-line and make sure evryone knows what shoddy workmanship, and customer service they have.
 
thrashingcows said:
....... and tell him I'm going to be filing a complaint with the BBB. Then I'm going to post up his company info on-line and make sure evryone knows what shoddy workmanship, and customer service they have.
Click to expand...

"Vengeance is sweet" ...it doesn't pay for the repairs but it sure does give one a lot of satisfaction. [smilie=i:
 
I got the air intake sensor sorted out today. I went up to my local parts house and we cross referenced the SMP AX36 with the brand they carry. They carry BWD, so the cross references is WT3032.

We looked up a picture in the catalog and it appeared to be correct. It also only listed it for 94-98 Dodge rams, no reference to 91-93. Anyway they brought it in for me and it was the right piece.

We looked through teh catalog and found a picture of a sensor that matched the one I received. It appears to be an air temperature sensor for A/C systems on mopars from late 80's to late 90's?

Anyway here is a pic of the 3 sensors.

 
Did you verify the electrical properties, perchance? I hadn't seen anything about the AIT sensor in this thread previously (or I forgot) and wonder what the issue was.
 
The air intake sensors on the motor control the grid heaters, and the other controls the KSB. The KSB is a small electric solenoid that increases fuel pressure, and adds/retards timing as the cooler temperatures begin.

I kind of suspected that they were on their way out when I would be cruising at a steady speed and then all of a sudden the engine sound would change, this would be the timing changing. Also with the WTS (Wait to start) light on the dash....this is part of the grid heater system...should only warm up the grid heaters when it's 60*F or cooler. There were a few mornings when the temperature was around 72*F and the truck acted like it was -32*F.

So I followed the test procedures in the FSM and they both failed.
 
I understand what they do, it just seemed like there was some confusion as to which sensors to use by the text of your post (showing 3 of them). I was curious if you ended up using a non-cross-reference unit, and if so, if you matched the electrical properties in regards to temperature. If you just used a direct cross it should have been an identical piece, though, with no further checking necessary.
 
The one on the right, was supposed to be a direct cross over item. But turned out to be an incorrect piece sent to me from an on-line vendor. The one on the left, is the correct cross over piece sourced locally. Hope this explains things.
 
Have you pulled any codes. You should be able to do it by cycling the key 3 times and counting the ABS MIL flashes.
 
Ok. Ill get you the wiring diagrams and pin outs with voltage values. Did you test the rear speed sensor?

Some of the stuff I looked up today was talking about the crank sensor causing cruise control problems because the crank sensor provides the only engine speed signal for the ECM. It sounds like the cruise is based off of engine speed rather than wheel speed.

It's also possible the ABS module is bad. I'll get you the info when I get a chance. I'll be out of town until Tuesday so it will be after that.
 
The cruise runs off the engine, which is a transfer from the big-truck world. Turn the cruise on at idle, tap the resume button, and bang! Engine runs at ideal PTO speed. Dodge manual-transmission diesels have PTO provisions on the transmissions from the factory all the way back to '89.
 
Dr.Jass said:
The cruise runs off the engine, which is a transfer from the big-truck world. Turn the cruise on at idle, tap the resume button, and bang! Engine runs at ideal PTO speed. Dodge manual-transmission diesels have PTO provisions on the transmissions from the factory all the way back to '89.
Click to expand...

I have never heard of that on 1st Gen's. I know of a few guys who have wired in a switch to do this.

I have done every pin-out test, voltage check, and resistance and continuity check there is in the FSM to check the cruise system. Everything checks out fine, it should be working flawlessly.
 
I don't know if the first gens do it by themselves, but I guess later trucks do. I know a couple of guys with early trucks. I'll have to ask them.
 
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