84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

So the first issue I had was with the fan lightly hitting my Fluidampr. I had shimmed out the clutch fan away from the hub by a good 1/4"...but one blade was still touching every so often.

The light "Ting ting ting" sound would come at higher RPM's...1800+. I eventually had to pull the fan and remove a bit of material from the one fan blade. Since then i have not had an issue.
 
Next issue was the total lack of power the motor seemed to have. It would barely climb up a hill at 35 KM/H in 3rd gear. It was bad!! I thought I had some major issues.

I initially thought I had a 21cm2 exhaust housing, but I confirmed that it had a 18cm2 unit. OK so that was not my problem.

Next I thought maybe the OEM diaphragm lift pump was not supplying the motor with enough fuel. So I pulled the LP piston lift pump off my 89 motor and installed it on the 93. This did help a little....I was now up to 40-45 KM/h going up the same hill.

Then I noticed while cruising at a steady speed that once in a while the motor sound would change. I got thinking about it and thought that maybe the KSB was coming on while driving. I came to the DTR and did a ton of reading on KSB's.

I finally found a test procedure and tried that. Turned out the KSB was on all the time. My intake temp sensor is toast. And once I disconnected the wiring to the KSB the truck was like night and day.

I also need to mention that I had installed a M&H dynamic timing spacer when I resealed the IP. So with the KSB on all the time I was running probably 15-20* more timing.....Doooh!!
 
Then a week or so ago I started to get a really bad growl, shake when i got on the highway. Thought maybe the pinion bear was starting to go since it was worse under load/acceleration.

Did a quick check and found that the rear most weld on yoke had opened up and I had a fair amount of side to side play in the U-joint. I used a C-clamp to tighten things up, then installed a washer to take up the extra space. Also turned out that the slip yoke off the back side of the carrier bearing had one U-joint cup that was loose and spinning in the casting.

I had to get back and forth to work for a couple more days before I could get the drive shafts out and back to the shop that did them. So the washer was a temp fix, and I kept off the highway and stayed below 65 KM/H.

The driveline shop that RE/RE'd my original 2 pieces set-up had said everything was good. And they only replaced two of the wled on yokes the first time around. Well now the parts that they said were OK turned out to be shot.

I have had issue with this shop before. The owner will not stand behind his work. But the other shop I had been using got out of car/truck drivelines, and this shop was the only one relatively close by. So once again he weaseled out of proper customer service and I got stuck with another full bill to fix what they didn't do right the first time.[verymad]

I have since found another shop. They don't advertise, so you have to know someone one who knows. So I will be going there next time.
 
The last issue I have right now is with the factory electronic cruise control system What my truck is doing is that when you set the cruise, it will sit at the set speed for a second or so...then start speeding up.

I have read every thread I could find here on the DTR, and other sites, that pertain to the factory cruise set up. I have also done every test that the FSM (factory service manual) says to do to test the system. Everything checks out. It should, in theory, be working perfectly.

I have come to the conclusion though that perhaps the "Vent" function is the culprit. Since the ECM is supposed to control the "venting" function on the servo to help maintain the speed, as well as increase, and slow down as need by road conditions.

So the other day I thought maybe if I limited the amount of vacuum to the servo it might help. I reduced the ID of the vacuum line down to about 1/16th of an inch and it still persisted in doing the same thing.

So now I need to figure out how the vent system works on the servo. And/or find a servo from a working truck/car and try it on the crewcab.
 
Does that truck have a speed sensor for anti-lock brakes in the rear diff? I'm not sure what year they started using the rear diff speed sensor for the cruise but if the ABS MIL is on the cruise will do what you are talking about.

I had the same problem on a 92 diesel ram in the shop a few weeks ago. The wire harness for the rear ABS sensor had been pinched near the fuel tank and one of the wires was broken. Fixing that wire fixed the ABS and the cruise.
 
Stretch said:
Does that truck have a speed sensor for anti-lock brakes in the rear diff? I'm not sure what year they started using the rear diff speed sensor for the cruise but if the ABS MIL is on the cruise will do what you are talking about.

I had the same problem on a 92 diesel ram in the shop a few weeks ago. The wire harness for the rear ABS sensor had been pinched near the fuel tank and one of the wires was broken. Fixing that wire fixed the ABS and the cruise.
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Interesting. I have the rear ABS unhooked and bypassed. Since it was causing the ABS warning light to come on, and the brake pedal to be soft to pathetic. ;) I will try plugging things back in and see if it changes things.
 
Had a good run on the Hwy this evening. I think my drive shaft angles are off. A lot of vibration, and growling going on. It growls a bit under power/acceleration on the Hwy....80Km/h to 100km/h. Also when you let off the throttle it almost sounds like an engine brake engaging.

I did a quick angle check...on uneven ground...and it appears my front shaft coming off the TC is going up hill to the carrier bearing. Then it's running down hill to the diff.

My rough angle calculation gives me 3* up, working angle at the TC. Then 9* down, at the carrier bear joint. Then 4.5* down at the rear diff. Those don't equate to a smooth ride IMO.
redface.gif
 
thrashingcows said:
I really like the Silicone intakes website. They have every measurement you could possibly need on their items. Makes it very easy to get the right part the first time.
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It was not always that way. I sent them an e-mail quite awhile back about the dearth of information on many of their products. The e-mail was pretty funny; I should see if I kept it since I suggested making "that guy in the office nobody likes" go out with a tape measure, hiring a hooker under false pretenses, and several other options ot make the site more informative. I expected a humorous response but it was very flat... at least they put the information on the site, though. They also added tons of turbo gaskets and flanges they didn't previously carry in response to an earlier mention that I'd had to buy all that stuff elsewhere at vastly-inflated prices. Mad props to them for listening to the customers... I have much left to order from them.
 
Well then Thank you Doc for you customer suggestions.

I went through a lot of different sites looking for specific information, but the specs they usually had were few, and vague. When I came upon the silicone intakes site, I thought I had stumbled into the promised land. :D If you can find the E-mail please post it up in the Jass hole? ;)
 
thrashingcows said:
Interesting. I have the rear ABS unhooked and bypassed. Since it was causing the ABS warning light to come on, and the brake pedal to be soft to pathetic. ;) I will try plugging things back in and see if it changes things.
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If the ABS light was on chances are very good its the speed sensor in the diff causing the problem. It's a very common failure. In fact finding the broken wire on the '92 surprised me. I was fully expecting to change the speed sensor.
 
Well I plugged things back in and the ABS light came back on. As well as the "Brake" warning light. Cruise still accelerated when I tried it. :(
 
Well I removed the factory 2"-ish carrier bearing raised plate. I made a flat plate out of 1/4 steel plate and installed that instead. Now everything runs downhill.

I drove to the mall with my 4' level, and hunted around for a mostly level spot to calculate my drive shaft angles. It appears I have 2* working angles at the transfer case, carrier bearing, and diff. So I would assume that all is good now?

I did still have a slight growl though. It turned out to be the drive shaft carrier bearing was not in perfect line from the transfer case to the diff. I got it darn close and seems much better now.

But now I think I have a bad pinion bearing in the rear diff...or something? Now it's a low hum from around 90-100Km/h. Makes a bot more of a growling noise when I get off the throttle. Will growl while slowing from around 100+ km/h down to 80km/h. Any thoughts?
 
thrashingcows said:
Wouldn't a bad pinion bearing cause the pinion to walk into the ring gear causing the sound? Is this what your making reference to?
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It sounds like that's what he's gettin' at. A sloppy pinion bearing would change how your ring & pinion mesh as you accelerate & decelerate, causing a growl one way but not the other. And having poor pinion angle at the u-joint would aggravate the situation.
 
In my experience, a worn ring & pinion will not make noise like that. Usually when they wear incorrectly, they "re-lap" themselves over time and as the wear increases. They'll most often be very quiet right up until you install new bearings and correct their mesh. Then they'll whine or howl like any improperly-adjusted (or cheap) set of gears.

I would definitely check the pinion bearings, particularly the front (outer). It's easy enough: if there's any play whatsoever, it's shot. You should not be able to wiggle the yoke at all. Normally I'd also suggest checking the U-joints but those have been verified already, and I'd think about the output-shaft bushing on the transmission--but I don't know how much of an issue that would create with the two-piece driveshaft.
 
im not sure a married unit trans even has an output bushing..i think the input bearing of the t case does that job instead
 
Thanks for the advice guys, I will go check the pinion bearing play.

I have already spoke to my brother, who worked in a drive line shop for a while doing diffs and transfer cases. I am going to go over to his place next week and have him check the diff. He's going to check the ring and pinion pattern, as well as the inner carrier bearings, and stuff. The diff has 260K Km's....and I bet has never had any work done.
 
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