84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

I don't understand why the hell Chrysler made goofy changes like that. They did the same thing with Charger front turn signals between '72 and '73. Exactly the same part, exactly the same plug, but they reversed the two positives leads. At what point did that make sense?

I hope it works out for you, BeatingBovines!
 
My guess on the charger turn signal thing is it was a supplier mistake in making the wire harness the turn signal plugs into. Buy the time the mix-up in wiring was cought there was who knows how many made and in houseand on the line. It was probably a cheeper and faster fix to just change the polarity on the turnsignals rather than the compleat harness.

The wiper switch wiring may be the same situation.
 
Well it doesn't work. Now I'm on the hunt for a wiring diagram...on-line. I have a 89 CUmmins repair/service manual...but it doesn't touch on the main body, dash, and accessory systems. And you know I haven't had enought time to get a factory service manual....:doh:
 
My guess on the charger turn signal thing is it was a supplier mistake in making the wire harness the turn signal plugs into. Buy the time the mix-up in wiring was cought there was who knows how many made and in houseand on the line. It was probably a cheeper and faster fix to just change the polarity on the turnsignals rather than the compleat harness.

The wiper switch wiring may be the same situation.
If that were the case, they would've had to throw out hundreds or even thousands of turn-signal assemblies. As I recall, the pigtail has a molded rubber connector and the socket is non-removable, meaning it's part of the reflector assembly. The harness side is also a molded-rubber connector, meaning you can't just switch pins around on either side. The same problem exists out back between '71-'72 Chargers. The taillamps interchange fitment-wise, but a '72 Rallye taillamp will not plug into a '71 harness. The only difference is the wiring.
 
Well here is a pic of the joining of the two harnesses....


PICT6892.jpg


I installed it, as I said earlier, and nothing worked. But you could hear the intermittent relay cycling, and power clicking into the system. SO I pulled the wiring out again and double checked my connections....yup everything was exactly how it should be. So after that I re-install the wiring and decided to check the plug at the wiper motor. I was getting power to the plug, from different location depending on if it was intermittent wipe or not. And the washer fluid pump was working...so I figured it had to be the wiper motor.

So even though I had pulled the motor last night and it cycled fine, I decided to use a spare motor I had. Although this one had a different wiring connector so i couldn't plug it in...but I had snagged 6" of wiring with it so I was able to make a jump to the wiring in the truck. And if your doing this don't forget the external ground. So i hook everything up, power it up and the motor works perfectly. So this was the problem.

So onto Rockauto to find an interchange list...then out to the wreckers...grabbed an almost new one from a 91 Plymouth Voyager. Came home and hooked it up first off with the jump wires...and everything worked!! SO out came the old motor...then swap over the new motor onto the base plate from the truck, then re-install. I now have wiper again!!
 
Just for the record here is the Rockauto interchange list....

CHRYSLERLEBARON(1989 - 1995)
CHRYSLERTC MASERATI(1989 - 1991)
CHRYSLERTOWN & COUNTRY(1990 - 1995)
DODGEB150(1989 - 1994)
DODGEB1500(1995 - 1997)
DODGEB250(1989 - 1994)
DODGEB2500(1995 - 1997)
DODGEB350(1989 - 1994)
DODGEB3500(1995 - 1997)
DODGECARAVAN(1989 - 1995)
DODGED100 PICKUP1989
DODGED150 PICKUP(1989 - 1993)
DODGED250 PICKUP(1989 - 1993)
DODGED350 PICKUP(1989 - 1993)
DODGEDAYTONA(1989 - 1993)
DODGEGRAND CARAVAN(1989 - 1995)
DODGEOMNI1990
DODGERAMCHARGER(1989 - 1993)
DODGEW100 PICKUP1989
DODGEW150 PICKUP(1989 - 1993)
DODGEW250 PICKUP(1989 - 1993)
DODGEW350 PICKUP(1989 - 1993)
PLYMOUTHGRAND VOYAGER(1989 - 1995)
PLYMOUTHHORIZON1990
PLYMOUTHVOYAGER(1989 - 1995)
 
All of those use the same wiper motor? Wow!

I know...Makes find a replacement a lot easier. And you don't have to pay that "premium" some guys want for the exact part for your truck. "Oh...You need a wiper motor for a early Cummins Dodge Ram...not many of these around...Hmmm...How's $60 for a used unit!!"
 
Knowledge about interchangeability has both saved me and made me a ton of money in the past. Back when eBay was still worth doing, I sold a lot of stuff at huge profit simply because I knew it would fit even if it wasn't correct, which I would always say in the description. I got around $300 for the painted Sport mirrors I took off my LeBaron though I could replace them for $20 three or four times over via my favorite boneyard. Pull the power trunk latch from an '88 Fifth Ave or any K-based car and watch the fun ensue when you list it for a '66-'67 B-body... no, it's not correct, but people love adding simple options like that just for the convenience. It's a bolt-in part and requires one wire run from 12V+ through a pushbutton switch. Buy it for $5, sell it for $80. It happened all the time, and the big profit is in the small stuff like that. That mirror-remote nut you just bid $40 to get for your '71 Charger? I pulled it out of a '79 Cordoba and the yard owner wouldn't even charge me for it. That "rare" correct vacuum reservoir in perfect condition you just gave me $180 to get your Air Grabber setup complete? Yeah, I paid $5 after pulling it from an '80 St. Regis. I also yanked the oil-pressure gauge that fits in a Mirada/J-doba dash and made $50 on that. Change the sender and use the original wiring. You're golden.

Everyone's car is special to them; I'm no different. However, that feeling often extends to parts, like thinking the upper ball joint in your '68 GTX is somehow worth more than the one from a Diplomat (they're the same part). No doubt there are oddball items, like '67 A-body steering arms, but in a lot of cases stuff just interchanges willy-nilly, or with extremely-slight modification if you're more worried about enjoying the car than a 100-point show winner.

I don't know why stuff like that sticks in my head... it just does.
 
Yeah it always blows me away that people just don't research...or pay attention to the little things like you stated above. I have know about a lot of those things for years..simply from junkyarding...and paying attention to parts on various cars. And I have gladly passed on the info to those I deem worthy...;)

I should have a complete 2wd cummins tranny cross member, and mount, as well as the metal bracket the carrier bearing mounts to. Should have them by late next week. Then I'll see what it will truly take to get that NV4500 to work with the cross member and mount.
 
Cow, I have to say I really dont think that is your problem. I have seen some crazy driveline angles in lifted trucks, jeeps, & yes even cars. and have never seen drive line vibrations like you are talking about from shaft angles. Remember, I worked in a suspension shop for 15 years. We made springs there. We lifted trucks there. Pickup and simi trucks. Yes we made lift springs for simi trucks. The looging industry is big here. We did alot of lift suspensions on simis that were used for well drilling rigs and pipeline and power line trucks. I have seen stock wheel base jeep CJ's with 4 to 6"s of lift that never had driveline vibs as long as the U-Joints dint bind they didn't shake. The joints may not last 10,000 miles but they didnt shake.

I really think you have a bad joint, yoke, shaft, bearing, axle, tire (or tire balance) or carrier bearing. I know you have said most of those parts are new but that doesn't mean they are good. I have worked in the auto repair and parts business for many many years. defective parts are not all that uncommon even more so that most of it is bult in China, or Indonesa, or what ever country will do it cheepest. I'm not saying you installed anything wrong either but we are all human and we all make mistakes now and again.
 
I agree, Stretch, but with hacked crossmembers he may never diagnose it, and those could be causing the problems.
 
That is my thinking...Get things back to stock locations. Easier to diagnoses problems if you can eliminate certain things as "potential" problems. I pretty damn sure the tailshaft bushing is worn....so once I get the new tranny cross member and mount in, I'll be doing the tailshaft bushing, and the U-joint right there as well.
 
Ahh... I didn't see mention of the tailshaft bushing. I bet that is the sorce of your vibs!
 
Ahh... I didn't see mention of the tailshaft bushing. I bet that is the sorce of your vibs!

You might want to refer to back to my post about my own experience with a worn tailshaft bushing. :hmmm:
 
Yah. I have had the same issue on to in the past. One was on a car I owed. The other was on that '66 dodge I was working on in the "What are you working on" thread.
 
Alright another step taken. The shake from the drive line was getting BAD!! I pretty much figured my tailshaft bushing was toast...so I ordered up all the parts and finally got to it over the weekend.

Fairly straight forward...remove a bolt from either side of the tranny side cover...where the PTO would go, and let drain. Then remove drive shaft(s) and tranny mount and cross member, and then find a 10mm 12Point socket to remove 8 bolts...use heat on each one to loosen blue loctite. Remove speedo gear assembly and it's ready to come part.

PICT7010_zps311e0dac.jpg


And rear section off....

PICT7014_zps223d8bd0.jpg


I had ordered a new 5th gear and nut from Quad4x4, since I was unsure of what I might find. I found everything in good shape, with the original chrysler updated nut. Everything appeared to be in fine shape so I left it alone for now.
 
Now that the rear section of the tranny was off I could use a hack saw to cut through the old tailshaft bushing.

PICT7016_zps14ce7507.jpg


Once cut it just slips right out. This thing was TOAST!! You can see how hot it had been getting, and there was very little material left on the inside of the bushing.

PICT7018_zps5d371874.jpg


PICT7019_zpse04b47ae.jpg


I didn't snap any pics of the reassembly process....cold and raining and wasn't too thrilled about laying out in the weather. :(

I put the new bushing in the freezer for a day...then brought the housing in the house to get warm. I then used a chunk of ABS pipe to help drive the new bushing into the housing. This was a chore though...I should have warmed the housing up in the oven at 300 deg or so...might have slipped in a little easier. I ended up rolling the edge a bit, so I had to file and sand the outer section of the new bushing to clean things up....not too bad though.
 

SiteLock

SiteLock
Back
Top