84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

the slips youll be stuck with new..but...if you can find anything low mile to snag off of DO IT....as far as balancing or cutting see if you can find yourself a tractor/steel repair shop..they useualy cut balance and do driveshaft for a hell of alot less

ive got just such a place that does lines for about 75$ balanced and out the door....thats asuming they arnt actualy "making" anything and just cutting it down and balancing it
 
the slips youll be stuck with new..but...if you can find anything low mile to snag off of DO IT....as far as balancing or cutting see if you can find yourself a tractor/steel repair shop..they useualy cut balance and do driveshaft for a hell of alot less

ive got just such a place that does lines for about 75$ balanced and out the door....thats asuming they arnt actualy "making" anything and just cutting it down and balancing it

Yeah I learned that the tractor/agricultural machine shop is much cheaper. I was going to a local driveline shop...charged about $200!! Then my brother told me about this farming machine shop...$90 out the door with taxes! They did balance my 2 piece before I started driving the truck...about $150. So the balance should be fine.
 
Well last night I decided to pull the rear drive shaft. Then I proceeded to fill the slip yoke with HD High Temp bearing grease. Then re-installed it. Had a bit of a time getting the slip yoke to slide far enough forward to allow me to get the year U-joint cups into place on the diff. The grease compacted, and the hyd. pressure wouldn't allow me to push it forward any farther...I then had to pull it off, wipe off all the grease off the splines and try again. Had to do this quite a few times before I was able to get everything hooked up.

Then laster last evening we went for our annual family Christmas light drive around town, and there was definitely a reduction in the vibrations from the drive shaft. So I think this is one of my problems. SO guess I need to order up a new midship spline, and yoke.
 
The problem with using the HD truck/tractor shaft balancing compaines is they only spin the shaft to around 2000RPM. Tractors and HD trucks dont see much more RPM than that in the drive line. The automotive ballancer charge more because they spin the shaft much faster and get the balance much more precise!
 
the shop i use must spin em up to all hell or i got lucky every time......remember 1 of the shafts i had done bolts to the ENGINE spinning as high as 8k and is ALWAYS spinning...course every shops going to have different equipment
 
The problem with using the HD truck/tractor shaft balancing compaines is they only spin the shaft to around 2000RPM. Tractors and HD trucks dont see much more RPM than that in the drive line. The automotive ballancer charge more because they spin the shaft much faster and get the balance much more precise!

That is very interesting...never thought about that.
 
Well after a couple runs on the highway I have to say things aren't much better now. not sure why it seemed to be better, and now is back to as bad as it was before. I'm getting very frustrated trying to figure this out...I'm starting to not want to drive the truck. :(
 
I still think you have a yoke that has wear in it from the loose strap. The cap cant be held tight enough because of that wear. That might be why the vibration was gone but now is back. Take the shaft down, clean that yoke up, and look at it real close with a good light. I bet you will find ware marks in it either where the cap sits or the c clip rides against the inside of it. Before you take the shaft out see if you can move the shaft side to side in the caps. if so that yoke is bad.
 
I now have all the parts to do my tailshaft bushing. Will do that next week. I was under the truck trying to measure the center line of the driveline. I am no expert, but I assume the transmission, carrier bearing, and rear axle should all be in line? As of right now not one of those thre is positioned in the same spot. I think this is what you get when someone quickly butchers in the driveline, with no care to proper geometry and engineering.

The tranny and carrier bearing mounts are just pieces of channel across the frame.
 
uhh shit..yeah that will do it......you need a stock truck crossmember if nothing else you can use it to get things in line......i dont think trucks suffer the engine offset that most car do(engine pushed to the passenger side by several inches to make steering box room)

as much as those out of alignment will do some things i dont think they will cause the vibe...they will cause a vibe to be exagerated as well as excell the wear of parts..but they probably are not the "source" tho they may have caused it..as in they made everythingwear out faster

will a stock crossmember mount work?....i know the 60s ones had more "drop" than the 70s ones ...and i "think" slantys had a different trans mount than the 8's...ive never seen a diesel one first hand.....and ive never paid enuf attention to see what trucks had the middle berring drive shafts....long box 4dr only?
 
I tried a stock 89-93 diesel 2wd truck crossmemebr, but the fact that I'm running a 96 NV4500, not the 89-93 Getrag, it wouldn't fit the tranny. I cut it up with the though of piecing together a new cross member, but I think I will get another one and try again. What didn't fit between the two was mainly the NV4500 tranny mount, but I never even tried to make a 89-93 tranny mount work. Should be able to I think....even if I have to make an adapter plate. At least then I'd know the tranny will be in the right location.

The stock location for the carrier bearing is still in place, but I'd have to get the front drive shaft shortened, and a new longer rear shaft made up. I was going to do this once I get the Dana 70 in place...since it runs a diferent yoke to the gasser Dana 60 that's currently in place.
 
I don't know how to explain this correctly, but you don't actually want perfect alignment. Universal joints need to be out of line in at least two axes (multiple of axis, not hatchets :D ) to work properly, hence the reason your tranny output in the wagon is not directly in line with your rear axle, either vertically or going by the centerline of the car (part of the reason for the RH engine offset in RWD Mopars). Double angularity is required. Have you ever seen a RWD car with independent rear suspension and a "solid mount" center section that didn't have joints in the driveshaft? Me either, and if you look at the driveline angles of any one of them, they're not aligned perfectly in either the X or Y axis, even though the rear center section and transmission were firmly bolted to the frame.

Find the right mounts, the right crossmembers, and the factory-style driveshaft and you'll be golden... and I'm sure someone either makes a yoke to mate the NV4500 to the stock shaft, or an offset-cross U-joint to adapt it. You may well have to fab up a trans mount, but don't try and swing the tailshaft to the left or right when you do. Make your measurements where the trans sits naturally with good engine mounts, and I bet it will work out great.
 
Well I'm uncertain of what to do Doc. All the reading I've been doing about HD, 2 piece driveshafts seems to contradict what you are saying.

It does not say that you can't have a drive shaft system with offset in the X and Y axis...just means you have more angles to consider in getting everything set up properly. Most of the info I have found states that you want one axis in a straight line, be it X or Y. And in doing so you can then calculate the proper working angles for each U-joint.

I replaced the engine mounts last year....Anchor mounts. And I put in a new tranny mount as well. I will find me another stock tranny mount and go from there. The stock carrier bearing mount is already in place...it is riveted to the frame.
 
You don't want horiztontal misalignment anywhere near what you've got in the vertical (say, at the pinion yoke). If it's not double-angular, the needle bearings aren't doing their job correctly. They should be constantly moving. The perfect example is the double-joint "CV" used with the output yoke on so many trucks over the years. It virtually guarantees some misalignment among the joints, keeping all the needles moving. I think it's called a "double Cardan" yoke (not sure on the spelling).

As I mentioned earlier, the engine is not offset to the passenger's side in a Chrysler RWDer for any other reason. Remember, starting with the disastrous 1962 model year, they began a 5/50 powertrain warranty, which covered everything from the fan clutch to the rear wheel (axle) bearings. It had nothing to do with space for the driver's feet.
 
That's why I told you to use factory parts, including crossmembers. The slight misalignment is built in.
 
That's why I told you to use factory parts, including crossmembers. The slight misalignment is built in.

I'm working on it....having a tough time trying to find a diesel 2wd cross member....wish I hadn't cut up my other one....:(
 
My wipers quite last week on my crewcab...89 wiring. But my problem was in the wiper control on the turn signal stock. It's been rattling, and making odd clicking sounds, and would wipe erraticly, been like this for a couple years now. I knew it would die eventually, but never took any steps to prevent it either.

I have a spare steering column, from a 90/91, with the same wiper control. So I figured I'd use that. Swapped it out yesterday ....and nothing!! I thought maybe it was the wiper motor. So I pulled the motor and tested it...no problems there. So I pulled the new'er stuff back out and compared the old vs the new. Turns out the wiring for the 90/91 is a bit different. Plugs are the same, actual control stock is exactly the same...save for a couple wire that are a different color...but the whole wiring system is set up differently.

Last night I decided to cut and paste my two systems. Use the new'er control stock, and the old wiring. Carefully made sure to match all the wires to the proper connections, and solderd them all together. Will try installing it this morning...hope for the best.
 

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