84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

Now masked off and ready for the 1983 Toyota #557 Creme....

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I had never sprayed anything with a gun before, so this was new to me. Used a HVLP gun and did 3 coats.

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Shoved the truck almost to the front wall and had just enough room to shut the big door. We let it sit for about 10 your in the heat to dry up. Came back...pulled the masking and I drove it home. Like I said, lots of dust in the paint, but it is a lot better then it was.

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whats that "glob" in the roof?...and why didnt you shoot the top halfs of the fenders while you were at it./..looks damn good regardless
 
The blob on the roof looks like a plug for the hole where a "crew light" or CB antenna was installed at one point. It looks exactly like the one on the top of The Wiener Dodge, which had been used by the City of Kingsford after its career with the US Air Force was done. Kingsford had installed an amber rotating beacon up there. In fact, the switch was still in the dash for it, but the wiring to the rotator was gone.

Lookin' better every time, AbusingHeifers!
 
Thanks guys. Actually I thought the same thing afterwards...why didn't I paint the fender tops too....????:doh:

And yes I think the nubbin on the roof was for an CB antenna.
 
Well for some time now I've had a driveline vibration. But within the last few weeks it was getting progressively worse. Only really happened on the highway...all other speeds the truck was nice and smooth.

I had replaced all the U-joints, and had the 2 piece driveshaft balanced a couple years ago. Only part that I didn't change at that time was the carrier bearing it looked almost new so I just went with it. So I figured the vibration now must be coming from that older carrier bearing?

So last weekend I jack the truck up and go to remove the drive driveshafts and when I start to undo the straps on the U-joint on the axle I find one is loose. And that there is a ton of slop in the U-joint!! Turned out that the vibration was more then likely that single cup having all the needle bearing pounded into goo!!!

So instead of just doing the carrier bearing, I now had to do a U-joint as well. No biggie. So I swap on the new carrier bearing...had to do a little back yard engineering to get the new one on...old one came off with the cutting wheel. And install the new U-joint and put everything back in.

Now I figured I'd be riding in an Imperial with the new carrier bearing, and U-joint....WRONG!! The vibration now is even worse then before!! It now shakes from about 30mph on up to 50mph...then kind of lessens until 60mph and then shakes like a ba$tard on up to 85+mph.

I decided to try flipping the driveshaft, and U-joint 180*...this seemed to lessen the shake by a fraction, but still really bad. And then tonight I was laying under the truck pushing, and pulling on the drive line and thought I could detect movement in the front section of the rear drive shaft. So I replaced that U-joint as well. Went for a drive and it's Still shaking horribly!!

Like I said truck was driving nice and smooth, other then at hwy speeds, when I pulled into the driveway...changed carrier bearing and rear most U-joint and now it shakes.
So I would appreciate any, and all comments, thoughts, opinions on what this might be.
 
I have been doing some reading online and was wondering what the proper working angles would be for a 2 piece drive line in my crewcab?

I'm running a NV4500, and the front section on the 2nd gen drive shaft, complete with 2nd gen carrier bearing. The rear drive shaft has the front section from the 2nd gen drive shaft...yoke that slides onto the front shaft, and U-joint...then the rest is old gasser driveshaft back to the axle.
 
i cant help but wonder if you got bad new parts....i mean..you changed NOTHING but those 2 things and made it worse
 
Ia s it a fast vibration? One that you can almost hear? Or is it slow and heavy? Is it in the whole truck? Like you feel it in your seat or legs or is it in the steering wheel? Does that trucks rear diff have floating axles? If so check the axle shaft to hub flaange torque. If one of thise axles are loose its going to shake. Are your drive shaft yokes lined up. If you dont have all of the u-joints clocked correctly it will be out of balance. When I say "clocked" I mean if the shaft was out and on a flat surface would one u-joint cap at each joint be flat on that leval surface? If one is turned a spline or more its going to shake. If your vibration is slow and heavy, I'd be looking close at tire balance or looking for ply seperation, or broken belts.

You said one U-joint strap was loose. Did the yoke take some damage where the u-joint caps sits? If the joint was loose for any time it will have warn the yoke. I bet your new joint isnt tight in that side of the yoke. If your yoke uses straps then you must need inside locks on your joints. if the strap was loose did the joint c clips wear the inside of the yoke? Are both c clips on your new joint tight aginst the inside of the yoke? The joint needs to be pinched in there so the shaft cant move side to side. The bearings can be tight but if the joint can move side to side its going to shake like a dog shitin razor blades!
 
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i never once had a problem with closkcing of the splines on my ramcharger lines.....not saying it cant b an issue ..i just assumed that clocking them to different spots was a non issue
 
When I had my '90 F350 the yoke had a hairline crack and the damn thing vibrated from about 40MPH on up. It would also cause premature u-joint failure, found the crack on the 3rd new u-joint.
 
Well I was under the truck today...checking drive line angles. They say to park the vehicle on level ground, but since I live on a hill, and don't have any level ground nearby, I leveled the truck out on the road in front of the house. Parked it nose up hill, then jacked the back of the truck up, put jack stands under the axle and leveled it out. Took my level measurement on the underside of the frame, around the door area...nice long flat section of frame rail there.

All the angles were OK...within the 1* to 3* range, except the rear diff. The diff was 5*. So this will cause a drive line vibration since the U-joints are not functioning at the same degree and therefore canceling each others vibrations. Also while I was under the truck I checked the slip yokes, into the tailshaft in the tranny, and the rear side of the carrier bearing. I definitely have wear in each. Probably more in the tailshaft yoke.

So now I have to see if I can get new yokes, and then a whole new 2 piece driveshaft set-up made.
 
Was researching information on driveline angles, 2 piece driveshaft set-ups, etc, this evening and figured out that my operating angle for my u-joints are good, except for the U-joint at the tranny. For U-joints to work properly they need to have at least 1* operating angle, but not more then 3*. My U-joint at my tranny is operating at 0.5*. And actually my rear drive shaft operating angles are OK...I have 1* at the carrier bearing, and 1.5* at the diff. They say a you can be + or - 1* between the two U-joints, and still have them operate properly.

But the worn slip yokes are probably causing all kinds of problems. Been pricing out "New" parts...won't waste my time with used items that may, or may not be any better then what I have. Anyway these parts are not cheap!! Just for slip yokes, and new midship stub...looking at close to $500. Then I need new drive shafts, balancing, etc...to have everything done right probably looking at over $1000 to $1500...or more...:( Will hit the local driveline shop and get a price from them too.
 
If your slip yokes are showing wear I would also expect wear at the tranmission bushing. Now it really gets nasty. :doh:
 
68R/T said:
If your slip yokes are showing wear I would also expect wear at the tranmission bushing. Now it really gets nasty. :doh:
Click to expand...

Yeah I have already figured that I would need to do the tailshaft bushing as well. Before I install all the new hardware.
 
Back in the "very early" 70's I gave a ride to a marine buddy of mine to a Chicago airport. (about 110 miles, mostly interstate travel) The car always had a minor vibration at the shifter, but not enough to annoy me. As I slowed for the turn-off the vibration suddenly got so bad that it shook the whole car. After exiting the off ramp I pulled over and looked underneath. The tailhousing was glowing red and the trans seal was burning. Because of the long-term vibration, the bushing has gotten so hot that the mainshaft bent with the yoke on it. I had to remove everything as a unit, seperate as much as I could, then smash the tailhousing and use a cut-off to slice the yoke in sections to seperate it from the mainshaft.

Most people dont' realize the potential damage that can come from even the slightest vibration. :(
 
I know that the long term effects of a driveline vibration can be costly. That vibration travels through every part of the driveline...rearend, tranny and motor. It can shorten bearing life, seals etc. That's why I'm so concerned about this vibration adn getting it fixed as soon as possible.
 
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