84 Crewcab...AKA..Patches

cow..i WANT your motor and trans....sounds like your keeping the motor tho....but maybe not the trans?...or are you using the 5spd on the 4x conversion..meaning you would still need a tail shaft housing for a 5spd 4x yes?

damn id love to have that truck

but i got a 77 1 owner truck given to me today...all i know is from the pics that its CHERRY...but ill probably part it out
 
Yup keeping the crew a 5 speed...so will need to pick up a new 4x4 tailshaft housing, and a new rebuild kit for the NV45500 with a new 4x4 mainshaft. As well as a conversion 23 to 29 spline coupler....the NV4500 has a 29 spline shaft, the auto NP205 transfer case has a 23 spline.

The 77 sounds sweet...nice score! Post up some pics when you get it home.
 
I did a service on the motor today...guy said it had been 3 years since the last one!! The fuel filter took me over and hour to get off. And it had a K&N filter in it...which looks like it's been in there for 10 years! I have a nice new paper unit in there now. Turbo is nice too....no slop or play what so ever...and by the look of the nuts and bolts it might have been replaced fairly recently.
 
you my friend SUCK....cause you know i want a cummins and 5spd..i just dont care about the whole truck..actualy at this point i want a couple of them
 
69.5CUDA said:
you my friend SUCK....cause you know i want a cummins and 5spd..i just dont care about the whole truck..actually at this point i want a couple of them
Click to expand...

Put a want ad on Craigslist. I had a couple running down in the Seattle area and had quite a few guys contact me with trucks, and chassis. One guy offered me a complete running chassis cab fire so no body...Cummins/5 spd, 4x4 with 3.54 gears...$1800.
 
I have been under the truck the last couple days....man is it rusty!! I'm going to have to soak ever joint, nut and bolt with PB Blaster for the next 6 months, then probably heat the heck out of ever fasteners before I try to loosen things. I don't even have bleeder screws on the front calipers anymore!! Had to scrape, then poke all the grease nipples to free them up...used half tube of grease or more filling everything up.
 
Alright I figure I better update. Been puttering on the donor 93, trying to fix things so when I go to do the swap the parts will be good to go.

I mentioned earlier that I did a service. Here is a pic of the nasty K&N I pulled out. When do you think it was last cleaned....:D



The pass door would not open. Door handle assemble would move, but the latch wasn't moving. I had to crawl across the pass side and wrestle the inner door panel off so I could get access to inside of the door. Once I got into it I found that the linkage was all good, no broken clips. So I pulled out the door handle...well there was my problem!



The mechanism for the button was rusted solid. And it was stuck part way between open and closed so the inner door handle wouldn't work either. I dipped into my spare parts and had this all fixed and back together in no time. Door works great now!
 
What else...well I had to rebuild the steering coupler. Here's the original. had about 180* slop in the steering wheel!!



Took me about a week to get the shaft out of the truck. The 12 point 3/8 bolts that hold the rag joint to the steering column, and steering shaft were so rusty that I could not get any type of socket to grab. I eventually had to cut them all off. Here is the shaft out, and all apart...not looking too good.



I picked up a Dorman 425-253 steering coupler rebuild kit. Cleaned everything and installed it.



Good thing I'm such a parts horder...I had to dip into my spare parts again for another good rag joint and fasteners.
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I drained the cooling system, pulled the rad and cleaned it, and flushed the motor. I then re-installed everything and ran a rad flush through the system. Made a visible difference in the amount of build up on the cross flow cores. But mad do these IC motor hold a lot of coolant...over 4 gallons!!
 
And most recently I've been working on the rear brakes on the Dana 70. I had a visible brake fluid leak from the pass. side rear brake. Thought I might get lucky and only have to replace a couple wheel cylinders. Well here's what greeted me when I got it all apart.





Well everything was toast! So I ordered up all new stuff. I did the 1.125" wheel cylinder upgrade as well, and 3" shoes. But it was wearing 3" shoes.

Just finished the pass. side this evening. Will start of the drivers side tomorrow. Here's how things look now.

 
Drum brakes sure look pretty when they're all newly put together and have fresh hardware, don't they? :dance:

Good eBay tip for anyone that still is a seller there:

I sold a set of complete, ready-to-install 11"x2.5" passenger-car rears on eBay many years ago and made a killing on them. Excellent drums and backing plates that were blasted, cleaned and painted with the drums freshly turned. I used new hardware kits, adjusters, and shoes; anything that had to be re-used was also blasted and painted. I even adjusted them. They were things of beauty--bolt 'em to your axle housing, hook up the lines and cables, bleed, and go. I had about 75 bids on them and got nearly $400 for maybe a $60 investment (I started my bidding at $1). I think the pics of them did it--all the pretty colors of the springs and everything cast looking brand-new. Anything I had to paint, of course, did some time in the oven for durability, which is a step you could skip. The only thing I didn't paint was the wheel cylinders. Those just got hosed down with WD40 and sat for a day as a corrosion preventative. Oh, yeah... blast and paint the drums before you have them turned! :D

The brakes came off the back of my '67 GTX, but the beauty of the setup is that they will fit almost any Mopar RWD passenger-car rear axle from the muscle era through 1989, regardless of rear axle. Obviously, the 4" "BVD" bolt pattern axles (4" bolt circle) are an exception, but if it's 5 on 4.5", they'll work whether it's a 7-1/4", 8-1/4", 9-1/4", 8-3/4" or a Dana 60. Easy money!
 
Yup the new stuff is cheap. Think I am into the rear brakes for about $100 for both sides.

I've grabbed rear brakes for upgrades from the wreckers from all kinds of different vehicles. I would usually grab the most common set-up...11x2.5...to swap onto most of my cars. My 70 Fury had 11x2, which was expensive to re-do. So I Grabbed a set from a 76 Coronet, it had all new shoes, wheel cylinders and drums. 10 bolts, two brake lines, and 2 e-brake clips and they were mine. :D
 
It's so inexpensive to do it right these days, and people still refuse to do it. "Nah, the self-adjusters should be fine" but they don't even understand how drums work, and will later bitch that they're not getting adequate braking. Well, perhaps if the shoes were touching the drums... :doh:

I'm also starting to think that my friend Kevin and I are the only sticklers for using the parking brake left on the planet. I've seen how far a car in "Park" after being hit without the parking brake engaged, and leaving a manual tranmission in gear is no better.
 
you aint the only one doc...the v6 alfa guys still leave their stuff in gear...as they are afread of the seals on the back of the transaxle which i might add are 5$ to rebuild..but in the manual it tells you to NEVER do it cause if the car is bumped it can bump the timing belt.....needless to say for me...everything gets the ebrake pulled
 
I use my E-brake every time too. I think anyone who's been into an auto tranny, and seen the size of the park lever and rod, would never trust their vehicle to that alone to hold it.
 
I was once tasked to pull a crown vic out of the way with my dually (it was left blocking a driveway by an asshole roommate of someone I knew). The guy had left it in park and taken off with his keys. When I got the dually into 3rd gear pulling it down the street, somehow park disengaged, and the car was rolling freely. Once it stopped, it was in park again. That was a lesson to me-I'd never seen that happen before.
 
The park rod in most automatics is tipped with a roller so it won't harm the parking sprag if the car is hit while parked, or put into park while still moving. When that woman smashed into my Mirada, it ended up over half a block away and across the street. It was in park.
 
Alright time for an update on the crewcab. I have been working on the donor 93. Insured it for a couple days and drove it around....drove pretty well. I fixed a bunch of things. Got the cruise working. Turned out it was unplugged in behind the steering wheel, and one of the wires for the cruise got pinched when the steering wheel cover was screwed on. So fixed the wore, plugged it back in and viola!! Cruise works!! The A/C was not working. So I played around with a few things...jumped the low pressure switch and nothing. Did a bit of diagnosis and found out that it was the WOT (Wide Open Throttle) relay. Had a bit of a time finding the correct molded relay...but finally got the right one and all works great now.
 
Then it was front end rebuild time on the Donor 93. Want everything to be new for when I swap the diff into the crewcab.. I have been buying all the parts needed to do a complete rebuild for a while now. I got everything from tie rods, to king pins, to rotors and calipers.

Here's my pile of new junk.

 
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