Dr.Jass
Pastor of Muppets
The difference in the idler arm is probably a year thing, as I've never heard of a police-package pitman or idler arm. The only differences in the entire police package front end was higher-durometer bushings, a larger swaybar, and a reaction spring internal to the steering box for better feel. Everything else is the same. Torsion-bar pivot bushings aren't easy to find (I was going to use Firm Feel's polyurethane), and the anchor bushings at the LCA are bloody expensive (and police durometer are just plain not available).
The tie-rod ends aren't really a necessary upgrade on dirt since the wheels don't hook all that well to cause deflection, but if you want to do it, you certainly can. Good call on the pin-style calipers as they're a lot less likely to stick. Another thing you'll want to remember is to leave every abutment/anti-rattle clip off and add a couple of thousandths (literally, a couple) to your front wheel-bearing endplay after you've broken in the bearings. If stock is .008", go .010". The calipers do not self-retract on either design and the slight extra bit of wobble actually pushes them out of the way.
On the bushings, I would cut the factory sleeve out entirely. What you want to do is solidly mount the K-member to the frame, which will require another set of the huge washers for both fronts and rears. What you want to do is weld a piece of steel pipe to the upper bushings, then install the bushing (yes, you'll have to hog them out, and that sucks), and weld the first spare washers to the piece of pipe so they contact the K-frame. I can get you the dimension of how thick this assembly needs to be. Then you do the same with the lowers, which is less critical dimension-wise. The oval openings in the K-frame need to be sandwiched in steel, where the rubber has absolutely no effect. No one said cheating was easy.
Something else to consider: polyurethane can be ground to take the fancy sharp edges off, sandblasted to look like rubber, or in the case of K-member bushings, shot with rubberized undercoating to appear as rubber. I have a set of black poly control-arm bushings and cop swaybar bushings here, new in the Energy Suspension boxes. Stupid offers considered.
Every radiator in the world has one core. The core is the cooling tube/fin assembly between the tanks. It's the number of rows in the core that make the difference. Chrysler has never used a four-row, because in their testing by the time the air got past the first three rows, it was actually hot enough to be heating up the fourth. I got dressed down by a local radiator guy when I was looking to get the radiator in my Challenger fixed when I was 17. "Three cores, huh? Must be the only one in the world!" He then went onto tell me what I just told you. He also said that was a typical Chevy thing, because they'd brag about their "four-core" radiators.
The tie-rod ends aren't really a necessary upgrade on dirt since the wheels don't hook all that well to cause deflection, but if you want to do it, you certainly can. Good call on the pin-style calipers as they're a lot less likely to stick. Another thing you'll want to remember is to leave every abutment/anti-rattle clip off and add a couple of thousandths (literally, a couple) to your front wheel-bearing endplay after you've broken in the bearings. If stock is .008", go .010". The calipers do not self-retract on either design and the slight extra bit of wobble actually pushes them out of the way.
On the bushings, I would cut the factory sleeve out entirely. What you want to do is solidly mount the K-member to the frame, which will require another set of the huge washers for both fronts and rears. What you want to do is weld a piece of steel pipe to the upper bushings, then install the bushing (yes, you'll have to hog them out, and that sucks), and weld the first spare washers to the piece of pipe so they contact the K-frame. I can get you the dimension of how thick this assembly needs to be. Then you do the same with the lowers, which is less critical dimension-wise. The oval openings in the K-frame need to be sandwiched in steel, where the rubber has absolutely no effect. No one said cheating was easy.
Something else to consider: polyurethane can be ground to take the fancy sharp edges off, sandblasted to look like rubber, or in the case of K-member bushings, shot with rubberized undercoating to appear as rubber. I have a set of black poly control-arm bushings and cop swaybar bushings here, new in the Energy Suspension boxes. Stupid offers considered.
Every radiator in the world has one core. The core is the cooling tube/fin assembly between the tanks. It's the number of rows in the core that make the difference. Chrysler has never used a four-row, because in their testing by the time the air got past the first three rows, it was actually hot enough to be heating up the fourth. I got dressed down by a local radiator guy when I was looking to get the radiator in my Challenger fixed when I was 17. "Three cores, huh? Must be the only one in the world!" He then went onto tell me what I just told you. He also said that was a typical Chevy thing, because they'd brag about their "four-core" radiators.
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