1982 Cordoba Stock Car.

Make sure the car frame is perfictly level when you weld that cage in. Level and ridged = fast! Before you get too far into building that, look into a book called Street stock chassis technology. That book is old but it's full of chassis building info. It talks about all kinds of stuff like "roll centers" Unsprung weight" "spring rates" and there effects on handling. Hell P.M. me your address. You can have my copy. I doubt I'll ever need it again.
 
Hey Jass, this is the other 4bbl intake I have.

Is the 9-9-80 on the little tag cast on the front of the intake the build date?

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Yes, it is. I missed this post until just now. Lose the EGR standpipe and fill the hole with a pipe plug, and that's not a bad intake.
 
Brought some goodies home with me today.

Brand New G-Force Pro Eliminator Helmet and a Flex-A-Lite 17" fixed blade race fan. The fan was on the shelf at the speed shop and on sale so I had a hard time passing it up.

The center is steel and the blades are aluminum and are about 1/16" thick I tried to bend them with my hand and couldn't. Should work nicely. Really light too.

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I found this label on the helmet box amusing.

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I never raced "legally", really... a few times at the strip, but I didn't need a helmet. The only time I've raced a car with a helmet on my noggin was the first weekend I had my Challenger. No one in town knew about the car yet, and my friend and I borrowed a couple of black full-face helmets and tore up the town Saturday night. The car wasn't even registered yet. Mom and Dad came home Sunday, and the car was parked in the backyard. There was a lot of, "Holy crap--that was you guys?!" when I got it legal and drove it daily. We hurt a few feelings that Saturday night. :D
 
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We whipped the tar out of a couple of so-called "heavy hitters" that night. It wasn't hard to get a race when the guy in the next lane glances over and sees two guys in helmets. I'm sure the owner of that show-quality '67 Nova went home wondering what the hell just happened. Had I blown the engine the next day, I would've felt like I'd gotten my money out of the car (I paid $500 for it). No one even knew what it was, there were so few Dodge guys in this town. Fishy can tell you, gears make all the difference. These guys would build the hell out of an engine and leave a 3.08 (or worse) out back, often a 1-legger. They were not happy when their restified hot rods got stomped by a rusty old Challenger with its original F70-14 Goodyears on it, missing most of the driver's-side exhaust (including the muffler).
 
I kinda feel like a dork when I wear a helmet at the track, but I started having to do that when I had my soon-to-be-wife (now ex) with me and ran a 6.60 in the 1/8th in the mustang...accidentally leaving in 2nd gear. They made me wear it in the datsun, too. I'm sure I'll be wearing it in the tube chassis datsun when I get it going.
 
I will! :D


Is a copper rad with two 1/2" cores really going to cool better then an aluminum rad with two 1" cores?

I've been doing some reading and it does seem the aluminum rad if built properly will cool just as good if not better then the older copper/brass counterpart.

Just curious is all, still going to save money and run one of the 4 copper units I already own. :D
 
Well, surface area is surface area, so more than likely something with that much is going to trump the copper-brass unit. However, my suggestion for max cooling would be to find one from a '78 Dodge truck. If it's the 3-row 28" piece, there ain't nothing that's gonna cool better than that. You'll have to trim your core support, but you'll never find anything more efficient that will fit in the car.
 
Dr.Jass said:
'78 Dodge truck. If it's the 3-row 28" piece.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't think that is going to happen I'm afraid. I've seen a lot of old Dodge trucks and have never seen that rad anywhere.

I have one out of my 78 D200 360 2bbl but I think it's just two core.


Like I previously stated I have a swack of C-body 27" two core units. I'll use those up.


If I do decide to buy one it would be this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RA...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f0be19017
 
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Started the dis-assembly and rebuilding of the front end.

I'm debating weather or not to replace the UCA bushings as well as the torsion bar pivot bushings as neither is in very good shape.

What can I do about my tie rod assembly? All four need replacing and now is time for an upgrade. Options? I'm thinking late model C-body inners outters and sleeves will be the cheapest, easiest and as close to stock as possible.

I think I'm going to run late B-body Pin type calipers instead of the factory sliders.

Can I put a Police Package idler arm on a non police package car? They look the same just one is beefier looking.

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Hey Jass, do I just sleeve the rubber bushing that doesn't have the steel core? Front upper and rear lower?

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Another question about the leaf springs, I was planning on taking one leaf out of the left side spring pack and putting it into the right spring pack, lower spring rate on one side and raise is on the other. What do yah think?
 
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