What are you working on?

Apparently, the new wires are soy based and rodents love to munch them.
Some older wire insulation in many cases was made using some kind of rice product, so rodentia have been chewing wires for many, many years.

I hope hitting copper hurts the little bastards like chewing aluminum foil does for humans. 😁
 
funny you mention that....the deer pilot i fixed..rats ate its harness too, unknown yet if its coming back down to me or not

as for rats n copper..some take pleasure in it, i had pet rats for a time and youve kinda gotta give em a bit of everything to keep them content, bout the only thing they dont like chewing at is glass.....copper seemed to be kinda a fun treat for some, likely due to the soft plyable nature of it
 
Yup.
Most times, bodyshop guys call it dirty plastic: It's tough to get adhesion, whether you're repairing, bonding, filling or priming to it. The best adhesion promoters in the world don't work all the time... :(
dirty is a bloody understatement
the whole thing was looking GREAT i did color coat got a few miro flaws scuffed the color shot again and bam wrinkles in 1 spot....grumble..sanded and got it good for color, shot it and it was neer flawless laid a second coat and bam that fucking wrinkle came back

its a 2inch round spot...and it just wont go away..or..it wont STAY gone..ive epoxy primed, ive etched ive promo'd with 3 different brands, the whole unit is neer flawless save for this spot in a high visability spot

ive now taken a knife and carved it down to the plastic, sprayed it with some rattle can primer let it curl and wrinkle and carved it deeper.....im thinking my best bet here is to skim it with filler and pray

certainly filler wont wrinkle.........
 
No, filler won't wrinkle, but any edges where you feather down to the plastic- or where the filler is thin - might.
Tech Tip #3441: A couple light coats of Vinyl Wash will likely do the trick. Not etch primer, Vinyl Wash. That horrible green stuff that almost no one uses anymore.

A few years ago I did a new ABS GM front bumper cover for a friend's Buick. Cleaned it several times, till the water sheeted off. Baked it through a full cycle. Cleaned it again, till the water sheeted. Prepped it with a new grey Scotchbrite, and water-based Scuff Stuff. Cleaned it again. Yup, the water sheeted off.
A coat of sealer, base and clear with a flex additive, and it looked brand new.
Installed it and away she went.
Two months later she's back with peeling paint, right down to the bare plastic. No sign of any impact, not even a stone chip. The plastic looked like it had never been prepped.
I stripped it all down to the bare surface, cleaned it repeatedly, gave it two full-wet coats of Vinyl Wash, sealed and painted it. I had no idea if it was going to work, but the last I saw of her, the bumper looked good.
I may as well have paid her to stay away: I lost any profit and was actually in the hole on that F%)!ing bumper.

I've had other painters laugh at me for the problems I had with it, but at least one of those guys has told me since that they've had similar problems with ABS parts.
 
thankfully its just a deckwing for a hatchback, so the surface is small, never heard of vynle wash, this is true ABS hard plastic not that soft rubbery bumper shit, im starting to see the value in F-glass over plastics
i was good with my feather down i left a 1/8th-1/4 inch wide patch of primer all the way around the hole i cut

it was a "brand new" train wreck when i got it...so im atleast working on something i got my money back for, pretty much stripped it of all the OE primer, thru my sanding and repairing...repeat bad spot not yet pulled off camera

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those and these are pre-xmas as i was desperatly trying to get it done as an xmas preasent for my wife..even with the flaws that popped up last min(wrinkling) she still loved it

misted with gold base coat as a guide coat to whats wrong with it
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If you take on another similar project, try leaving the factory primer intact.
The last two paint tech courses I took both reccomended that. I can tell you from experience, the less burn-through you have, the better & quicker the results.
 
If you take on another similar project, try leaving the factory primer intact.
The last two paint tech courses I took both reccomended that. I can tell you from experience, the less burn-through you have, the better & quicker the results.
i would have...if....the factory primer didnt have oil spots on it and in it, chunks missing, and clear spots of oil UNDER the primer...it could have been sprayed in a grease pit by a monkey with netter results...it HAD to be stripped

i know for most OE "replacement" i will useualy toss a secondary coat of epoxy over them to seal n fix the "thin and bad"..but this thing was well beyond that...tis why i got my money back...
 
ive also added OE fogs and wiring, added HID setup, added 2 console usb ports at a full 5amp on 2 regulated heavy duty buck's, as well as 1 in the glove box and another in the driver side mini glove box, modified a set of AVS vent shades to fit...they dont make em for the 5dr in channel...but list that they do, and ill be turning to the chin next, also sanded and polished out the original headlights....320-1200....i figure they will survive the the summer but by winter again they will be done..the crazing is INSIDE the covers at this point..also did a rear seat delete flat panel, oddly i dont have any of the current "in use", its 1/4 inch or so LOWER that the rear package tray/spare cover ..so once skinned and carpeted it will be flush, i did insulate the underside


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the deck wing apparently shrank as it took on paint and primer..FUCK PLASTIC....it fit good before..but the edges apparently folded in some and the width shank by almost half inch.....so out with the heat gun boil the paint and curl the edges back out...now to prime fill prime..AGAIN.....

this time around after primer ill be using some silver base instead of the expensive blue

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leeeeroy jenkins approved rear seat delete, its a reminant of 1/8th inch aluminum over some random bits of square tube, bolted to the lowwer seat frame pedistal...between the loss of the 4inch hump and the gain of the headrest space plus some, we basicly gained 5 or so cubic feet of space and an almost perfectly flat interior.....the aluminum sheet is 48x28 (minus the nips for the rear humps), seats can still recline ALOT more than you could drive at...dog loves it and making amazon delivers got a whole crap ton easier between the more space and the flat deck

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the deck wing apparently shrank as it took on paint and primer..FUCK PLASTIC....it fit good before..but the edges apparently folded in some and the width shank by almost half inch.....so out with the heat gun boil the paint and curl the edges back out...now to prime fill prime..AGAIN.....

this time around after primer ill be using some silver base instead of the expensive blue

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Wow!
My first thought is far too much product in too short a time... I get the heat gun damage, but those long shrinkage cracks makes me say the heat gun accelerated the cure-through time, usually pointing to too much millage in low spots and valleys.
I've had paint pull on plastic as it dries and cures, but never like that.
Sucks.
 

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