I was back on the "29 Roadster today. I replaced the wheel bearing and seals on the right side. Oh boy did I struggle with the right side axle shaft race change. Before I could press the race off of the axle, I had to remove the key from the axle. Simple enough. WRONG!! Holy hell was that Phocker stuck in that slot! I had to split it with a cut off wheel. Not only did I have to split it but I had to cut it all the way through to the shaft and all the way end to end. About 4". I still had to air hammer the two pieces out. After the key was out of the way the pressing on and off with the race was simple.
After that I started stripping the paint off of the brake drums. With that started I installed the rear brake on the right side. It was a bit of a challenge to remember how it went. Good thing I was smart enough to snap a few pictures before I took it apart. I still had to figure out how the cable attached though. The cables that came with the car where broken and in a box. The '28 Oakland I did last year had completely different brakes. They are band brakes that work on the outside of the drum and are applied with rods. These are expanding shoes and are on the inside of the drum. These use cables rather than rods.
I'm planning on painting it black. I just mocked it up at this point. The car was about 90% disassembled when I got it. I really don't know if the pump will be in the way of any of the shock linkage or any of the brake linkage.
Yesterday I installed the brake shoe and cable on the right side. I bolted in the brake cables, and buttoned up the spring hardware. Now I'm onto getting this ready.
and a couple pics of the rear brakes cables installed.
After the kids found their Easter stuff I had some free time before we went to my mom and dads place for dinner so I made a particle board base for the diff center section. I bolted the diff to it and then set it on a 5 gal pail so I could sand blast the "pig" and keep as much sand out of it as possible. As a bonus, it sits nice and steady on the pail. I'll use it to prime and paint it too.
The chain sprocket is welded to the cut off yoke. The modified yoke slides onto the pinion and is held in place with a set screw. This does not affect the pinion bearing because that is set with a spanner nut. I'll get you a picture of that if you wish.
My main concern with this set up is the weight that will be hanging off of the ten 3/8 fine thread bolts that hold it all to the deferential. The "pig" gets pinched between the OD. bracket and the diff housing. There is a ton of leverage here, not to mention the weight of the 1/4" angle iron & plate that makes up the assembly.
Does it use a double row chain to connect to the OD? I'd worry about the upper bolts working loose. Maybe some studs loctited to hell on top with locknuts? Looks like it needs to be inspected/checked any time someone is under the car.
Yes it is a double row chain. If you look at the pic with the OD unit and brackets, you can see a matching sprocket on the out put shaft of the OD unit. It butts up to the sprocket on the diff and a double row chain wraps around them.
Friday night was spent with some Yuengling and my paint gun. If everything goes well today I'll have the chassis on the wheels.
I got the knee action shocks rebuilt and painted along with the rear diff center section and a few miscellaneous parts. No it's time to slide the "pig" home and install the axle shafts. Then on to the king pins and front brakes.
I got quite a bit done today. I got the gauges ready to be shipped out to be refurbished. They should be back in September. I had some help assembling the rear diff. I also got the yard raked, Carlee and I fixed a couple of dresser drawers that needed some attention. After that was done Chrissie and I took the kids for a four wheeler ride.
I got a bit more done Sunday evening. The front end is ready for the drag link and the brake drums. The brake cables are stiff. The wheels are forced out. I'm sure they will center up once the drag link is on.
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