The New Yorker.

It looks awesome at night!


They are bright enough to light up about 8' in front of the car in the dark.

I don't think they would be bright enough to drive with, I would never drive around with them on, that would be one fast ticket.

Kinda like this.

 
Damn... looking at the car, I was completely wrong on the headlamp wiring. I thought you added headlights, rather than replacing the stockers. :doh:

BTW, for Super Stock springs, just order ones for a '71-'72 B-car, with the attending longer front spring hangers. However, you're going to need iso-clamp adapters because the pilot holes in your spring perches will be way, way too big for the small SS center pins. What I'd actually suggest, particularly if you're going to push a bunch of power through the drivetrain, would be to install a '71-'72 B-car 8¾" ('73-'74 will work too, but find one without iso-clamps) in there at the same time, or a C-body 9¼". The 8¼" won't last with 350HP and a heavy car like that. You'll also want to grab the lower shock plates from the donor car (or damned-near any non-iso Mopar passenger car). C-body rear shocks have a little more travel and will allow the springs to work better, too.

Also, be advised that the cushy New Yorker ride will be far more like a 1-ton truck after you install SS springs. :D
 
Dr.Jass said:
Damn... looking at the car, I was completely wrong on the headlamp wiring. I thought you added headlights, rather than replacing the stockers. :doh:

Also, be advised that the cushy New Yorker ride will be far more like a 1-ton truck after you install SS springs. :D
Click to expand...


Well technically I did add headlights, there are only two low beam headlights from factory, I now have four. :)


I'm planning on running a 9.25 with a Tru-Trac and 3.91's.:gaga:


I know how the change is from cushy to hay wagon and I don't care. :D
 
Very cool headlight set-up...I've never seen that before...now you got me thinking about those for the wagon....Hmmmmm:toot:
 
A gear swap in a 9¼" isn't bad, so long as you have something with which to set the side-bearing preload... the Miller tool used by dealerships is a giant Allen wrench, something like a 1½" piece of hex stock long enough to fit down the axle tube and fit into the adjusters. I've seen homegrown ones made out of stout all-thread or a plain steel rod with a nut welded to each end. It's not rocket surgery. :D

Measure your backlash in four spots around the ring gear before you rip out the old gears, and shoot for that setting when you reassemble. Your backlash will tighten up a little when you final-torque the bearing caps; on the 8¾" I usually set it at .012"-.015", and when I final torque it ends up around .008"-.010" which is usually just right.

If you get a set of factory gears out of a truck or something like that, make sure you keep the pinion-depth shim from your original pinion. 99 times out of 100, if you use the correct shim from the housing on your "new" gears, you won't have to screw around trying to set pinion depth. If you get brand-new aftermarket gears you'll likely have to reset the pinion depth, which is a bit of a pain in the ass... hope you have access to a press. Another trick is to use an old bearing and use a cylinder hone to enlarge it just enough that it will slide on and off the gear. Don't make it sloppy. A pinion-depth gauge makes it setting the depth much easier, too, but you can get by without one by "reading" the gears' mesh pattern with marking compound.

If you have to do the pinion-depth 2-step, you'll probably thank me later for telling you to do all this before the axle goes in the car.

It sounds like a lot, but it's really not that bad. However, this is one area where the 8¾" really shines, because you can do all this on the bench, your coffee table, the kitchen floor, etc. I know, because I have. Of course, you need a special tool for the 8¾" side adjusters as well, and it's not the same one. Luckily for me, my manual steering-box adjustment tool fits perfectly. :dance:
 
Cool!

Yeah my 3.91's are out of a '79 truck and are factory Chryco gears.

I heard of guys using old torsion bars for that too. :hmmm:


I'm gonna be doing the swap on the bench, just like my truck. :D

DSC00348.jpg
 
Sweet, I went to the farm today and measured up a 9.25 out of a '77 C-body New Yorker and it's only 1" wider overall then the one in my '79 B-body New Yorker and the spring perches are even the right distance apart to bolt right in! :giggedy:


No just to buy springs and a Tru-Trac. :doh:


Any opinions on these Tru-Tracs by Detroit Locker?


http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produ...ducts/Differentials/DetroitTruetrac/index.htm


Crap, I don't think they make em for Mopars. :doh:


Any other suggestions? :shifty:
 
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Well, for all intents and purposes your R-car is a B-body, and B-body wagons '71-up used the C-car axle. The added overall width won't hurt--I had a rear-disc 9¼" from a '74 Imperial under my Super Bee and it went in like buttah. I never drove the car, but it was apparent tire rub would not be an issue.

I'd probably go Auburn, but even if you go used the factory cone-types last forever. You can't use the clutch-type Trac-Loc as used in later pickups, because the C-clip size increased in mid-1984, then the spline count changed in, I think, 1997... right around the time the Trac-Loc came online. If you're junkyard scrounding and find an '84 truck with a Sure-Grip, look for a huge "X" stamped into the case near the cover flange, usually on the passenger's side. That "X" indicates the big C-clips, and you won't be able to use it as there's no way to adapt your axles to that clip size. Trust me, we tried with my friend's '79 300.

Somewhere, I have a pic of the NOS Mopar 1971-to-mid-'84 9¼" Sure-Grip I bought off eBay next to one from an 8¾", and it's friggin' gigantic compared to the dropout rear's unit. Way bigger than the ½" of ring-gear size would indicate. With proper maintenance, I wouldn't be surprised to see one of those still burning both rear tires at 200,000+ miles.

I got that diff for $20, because it was listed as "Chrysler differential, partial". In Mopar-parts language, that means it didn't come with a ring and pinion or housing. :D It was a ready-to-drop-in deal. Unfortunately, I sold it a few months later, effectively ending my dream of a narrowed 9¼" in the LeBaron.

I also had a one-of-one, brand-new set of 4.30:1 gears for a 9¼". Where did I get them? eBay. Where did they come from? I have no idea, but there was a Dana/Spicer logo stamped into the pinion. Unless things have changed in the interceding four years, no one makes--or ever made--4.30 gears for the 9¼". Even Dana/Spicer couldn't explain them to me. They had no record of the numbers, nor did Chrysler. I got over $500 for that set of gears, because from the extensive research I did that was the only set of 9¼" 4.30s ever made... and man, did I get the questions from bidders on those: "They must be from something else!" They weren't--I added pics of the ring gear sitting on the 9¼" diff, and the pinion next to a 3.21 pinion I had lying around. "You're counting the teeth wrong!" So I posted very-clear pics of the end of the pinion and the ring gear, so they could count them themselves. In the end, the guy that got them was overjoyed to have paid more money for a stinkin' gear set than anyone else in history.
 
The 9.25 out of the '77 New Yorker is a factory Sure-Grip diff with 2.71's or 3.23's I can't remeber. :doh:

I think worst case it might need to be re freshened I never checked it out completely other then pulling the cover to verify it's a Sure-Grip.. :huh:
 
Keep the factory diff if it's still good. It can't be freshened, but it's likely you'll never wear it out. Toss in new bearings and your chosen ring and pinion, and burn rubber.
 
Dr.Jass said:
Keep the factory diff if it's still good. It can't be freshened, but it's likely you'll never wear it out. Toss in new bearings and your chosen ring and pinion, and burn rubber.
Click to expand...

I thought you could shim the cones up or something like that? :huh:


There is a good Sure-Grip in the Newport I could pull out anyways.
 
Diplomat_Wagon said:
I thought you could shim the cones up or something like that?
Click to expand...
On the 8¾", yes... you use the side-gear shims from an open diff to make up the slack in the cones and reset the side-gear mesh issue. On the 9¼" I don't know, but I've never pulled apart an open 9¼" carrier, either.
 
Rip apart an open 9¼" diff and send me pics, including one with the thickness of the side-gear shims, if any, preferably on a digital caliper.

That's right: Get up, get up, get down with the thickness. :dance:
 
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