Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

I did the wheel wells before she was up, even with that little extra height it was tough on the ole body.
then there's painting it, should be a 2 day job, primer 1st day then a long second day of paint & clear.
How could you even do that with the car up on jack stands?
 
Finally a coat of prime on everything cept the areas to be welded done on the bottom, now I have to find a welding supply & hope they accept my argon tank for a refill, place I got it years ago is gone!
1 step closer to paint!20220223_140203.jpg20220223_140231.jpg
 
Question on the primer, I'm using 4CR 4200 for a wet on wet sealer it says 4-1 hard & 1 red.

I don't intend to sand down there, should I add more reducer to make it lay out smoother?
If so how much?
 
ive never used that stuff specifically but ive found that reducing to get things to lay smooth is all about thickness vs the gun itself vs personal technique and kinda a try it and find it kind of thing, ie add a lil spray a test shot and have a look and just keep doing it till its how you want it, i personally vs my gun know what kind of liquid consistency when sloshing it around in the gun cup it should look like and aim for that
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Question on the primer, I'm using 4CR 4200 for a wet on wet sealer it says 4-1 hard & 1 red.

I don't intend to sand down there, should I add more reducer to make it lay out smoother?
If so how much?
Click to expand...
If you're using a catalyized product, and intended paint time is past the "open" window for that product, you WILL need to sand before paint.
A red Scotchbrite will do.
More reduced will only thin down the film build, meaning the product is intended to have a certain millage before top coating. Thinning it beyond recommended amounts could mean another coat is needed for that film thickness before top coat.
 
ohhh so true, tho id much rather lay down a few coats of neer glass smooth "thin" primer on a belly than a thick "textured" single coat
 
Then I have a dumb question, the instructions the shop put on the can was 4 to 1 had to be sanded
under that it just added 1 part reducer & said wet on wet sealer what exactly does that mean?

So If I wait till I'm gonna paint should be no problem.
Or can I do epoxy now as a sealer, or will that be the same deal?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
Then I have a dumb question, the instructions the shop put on the can was 4 to 1 had to be sanded
under that it just added 1 part reducer & said wet on wet sealer what exactly does that mean?

So If I wait till I'm gonna paint should be no problem.
Or can I do epoxy now as a sealer, or will that be the same deal?
Click to expand...
It just means that whatever product they sold you can be used as both a primer (4:1 mix), and a sealer (4:1+reduction). Sealers are always meant to be wet-on-wet (WOW), but still require sanding or abrading if left longer than the recommendation on the tech sheet.
Same with epoxy, though some epoxies do have a longer "open" time. No epoxy that I'm aware of has an open time of longer than 3 days, though...
Truthfully, the less product you can get away with now, outside, in the winter months, the more likely anything you apply later, when it's warmer, will be problem-free. And, in the event of any adhesion problems due to cold temp application, removing only one expensive primer is better than removing two. ;)
2k products NEED some consistent temps above 60F to do their chemical bonding thing... ideally, 68-72F is best.
 
I know I can't paint till weather is consistently warm, I need 2 or 3 days to get the bottom & interior done. I also can't paint till I get the tarp back on the tent, that won't go up till end of march or early april.
So I picked up the gas & a roll of wire for the mig, first I'll hit that last big patch in the trunk, then I have the roof, where some one did the texas 2 step on the passenger roof, I ground out a ton of putty when I got the car, there's still a layer of lead I will melt out, I have no idea if this repair is even possible, there are ripples in the roof in the rear from it (I think), it was done (stepped on) twice, there was an extra roof support added & that's bent too!!!
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
I know I can't paint till weather is consistently warm, I need 2 or 3 days to get the bottom & interior done. I also can't paint till I get the tarp back on the tent, that won't go up till end of march or early april.
So I picked up the gas & a roll of wire for the mig, first I'll hit that last big patch in the trunk, then I have the roof, where some one did the texas 2 step on the passenger roof, I ground out a ton of putty when I got the car, there's still a layer of lead I will melt out, I have no idea if this repair is even possible, there are ripples in the roof in the rear from it (I think), it was done (stepped on) twice, there was an extra roof support added & that's bent too!!!
Click to expand...
When you get to the roof, I can walk you through it...
 
That would be great, looks like I have 3 warmish days in the next ten that I can get a couple of hours in.
I will get some pics of the damage while I work on the trunk.
I have access to a stud welder & slide hammer if that is needed, not sure what else Is needed for this type of dent?
 
RUSTY Cuda said:
That would be great, looks like I have 3 warmish days in the next ten that I can get a couple of hours in.
I will get some pics of the damage while I work on the trunk.
I have access to a stud welder & slide hammer if that is needed, not sure what else Is needed for this type of dent?
Click to expand...
Unless the roof has sharp dents, neither will likely be needed. Roof panels are not as difficult as most folks imagine...
 
I hope it's doable, you haven't seen what they did to it yet, you have me curious maybe I'll strip the por 15 I put on almost 15 years ago to hold it & do that before I do the trunk, now I'm hopeful, I assumed I'd get it up a little & blob putty on like they did!
 
I think I might order por 15 stripper they say it's the only one that will remove it?
It took about an hour to clean the small area & show the ripples in the rear, don't know how much you can tell from these pics but this is what I have to try & fix?
there's still some lead in here.20220227_143659.jpg20220227_143720.jpg
 
the roof supports (they added an exta up front) !!!
From the front...............20220227_143827.jpgFrom the rear, the shadow on the first on is about the size of the gap.20220227_143751.jpgStarted to clean where it created ripples in the rear, as you can see the clean high points! 20220227_143631.jpg
 
Any tips on where & how to start on this will be much appreciated, I should be able to get a few hours in tues & wed, 46 & 51 out!
 
Ripples from previous repairs... :(
That makes everything much harder. It makes every damaged area another place to change repair tactics, given the previous efforts and not knowing how they were done.

Ever give any thought to a new roof skin? They're aren't difficult.
 
My carpel tunnel dreads 600 spot welds, I did think about it, 700 + shipping hurts my scottish heart, I have 2 more big ticket items to buy, the drivers fender & the motor rebuild, then when you add up the 12,000 little things I don't want this to get out of control. I'd like to keep it under 25k, not sure that's possible.

I did notice that sometimes fixing one area has an effect on areas not that close to it, I'll mess with it a while & see what develops.
Lets say it just had the one big dent, what are some of the ways you would tackle that.
That area just behimd the front ridge did do a lot of popping when I was cleaning it?
 
Most times, the"popping", or oil-canning, is from stretched metal. That's relatively easy to deal with.
The ripples usually mean someone has taken a hammer to it, and this is almost never easy to get right.
Drilling spot welds??? Not very often for this cowboy. That's why they make grinders... ;)

Ever use a shrinking disc, or a body spoon? Both might be well worth the small investment here, especially the spoon. An old leaf spring cut down to size will do the trick.

I get the skin cost vs: labour to repair thing, but honestly, I think a new skin is the way to go here. The results and piece of mind far outweigh the cost in my mind.
 
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