Right off the bat, let me say these photos concerned me enough to clear all the shit off the hood of my Challenger so I could open it for comparison purposes.
@Stretch can tell you that was no insignificant task.
There was some kind of hard impact here--hard enough to rip the inner fender away from the shock tower. You can see where the original rearmost shock-tower spotwelds
were on the inner fender, and that they're nowhere near the shock tower itself anymore. That area broke free in whatever cataclysm befell the car. The inward crease through which you removed the starter is not intentional bending, that's definitely crash damage.
The
intentional bending was forcing the rear edge of the inner fender
back to (poorly) relocate it to the firewall. That outward bend at the forward lower corner of the shock tower happened when the back half was forced
in and
up, which also explains the inward bend large enough to remove the starter. I would bet the spotwelds on either side of that forward bend are fairly weak due to being twisted. The inner is still badly bent; the shape of its cutout for the shock tower isn't even close to right. I'd make odds that the shock tower is bent as well, and the rail may well be tweaked too.
My money says the LF wheel came off at speed and stuffed itself into the inner. It was either that or some sort of catastrophic front suspension failure. The condition of the inner around the battery tray belies a hit up front. Similarly, had another car hit it behind the wheel it's not likely the hood hinge/fender flange area would be that straight.
Unless you've got some
insane hammer and dolly skills of which I'm not aware, the car absolutely
needs that entire inner replaced, period. If it were my car, the first thing I'd do is have the entire structure of the car verified/straightened on a frame rack
as-is (I think you'll want to reinstall the K-member for that). Only once you
know all the attaching points are within spec should you remove the destroyed inner fender. While it's out, manipulate the shock tower if necessary--it's critical for your front-end alignment since that's where the upper control arm is anchored. Use the body service manual and measurements from the opposite side to get it right (assuming the opposite side isn't crashed). Do not attempt to correct the shock tower using the frame as its only support as you'll likely straighten one by tweaking the other. With the inner gone, getting the firewall and flange squared away will be much easier. Installing the replacement inner is last on the list.
If you do have mad metal skills, you're
still going to have to cut it free to get it anywhere near the right shape. Ultimately I can't see where it's worth the effort over simply replacing it. This is important structure; I would highly recommend using an AMD panel here unless you can find a straight, solid OE cutoff ('71-'72 B-body is nearly identical, including sedans and wagons).
Any attempt to half-ass it will come back to bite you later, probably on the alignment rack when it can't be brought into spec. Recognizing the lack of any good workaround now and tackling this head-on will save you a lot of wasted effort. It'll pay dividends in both your confidence in the finished car and resale value. The car will be done sooner too.
You can barely see the lip of the outer sleeve
Now this is the back of the one that's stuck in there, something looks off center in there, hard to see but best pic I could get, the trick will be getting it out withiout ruining the pin, they sell in sets for over 100 bucks, no biggie when your gonna spend 20 or 30 K, but the less spent the better! 
