Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Way back when I started this mess I was told reds are one of the most expensive, if I got out with that last Gal. of sherman for 3 & change I'm hoping the B5 blue will come in a little less, not sure what Kind of pearls are in that code, on the ppg the girl kept repeating there's a lot of pearls in there,& some other word I can't think of right now, they did give me a stack of strainers & sticks, but back then buying rage filler, epoxy primers, blocking primers, my bill were huge!
 
Doc, I've got a Revell/Monogram '70 TA here, with 340 six pack, and a very nice set of 15" Minilites.
Fireball Model Works offers a sweet resin six pack set-up that looks pretty spot-on. Much better than what's in the Revell kit.
Harts Parts offers a conversion kit for making a '73/'74 out of a '70. I think he offers a Rallye hood, too, if it's not included.
 
If you want to take a crack at it, I'd love for you to do it for me. Another detail... Rim-Blow wheel. That might be a toughy, but certainly not a deal-breaker if it can't be done... but I always forget about the resin boys. My old roommate did resin wheels for a few years; sold 'em like crazy.
 
Sure, I'll give it a go.
Do I have to wait for you to finish the 1:1 car so I can get the details right?
'Cause, ya know... I ain't gonna live forever. ;)
 
Nah, no need to wait... the majors are fairly well carved in stone at this point, smart guy. 😁 Black paint, black interior and the other details described... any others, we can blow up that bridge when we cross it.
 
He's back!
Trying to sell the 73, just posted in the sale section with some pics, I need to know if I'm just too high or is the market that slow, now I haven't really advertised anywhere , it's on facebook again, dropped from 27,5 to 25K .
got 3 calls last year at 27, hoping for better this time.
You know the story over 35K in it, trying to keep loss to a minimum but am I being realistic about the chances?
Every where I check I can't find a finished one under 30K??
I need the moola to continue on the 74.

Speaking of which I finally shot some sherman B5 blue, tell me if it's any where near the original color?
shot the back of a few panels just to see it, & get them sealed up before winter.

Base coat.
20210804_134823.jpg 3 coats of clear20210804_155753.jpg
 
markets weird as F right now on everything...my recomendation..sit on it till the shitstorms over IE 2 years minimum
 
That B5 looks a bit light to me, almost like B2 (which is darker than B3)... however, different lighting does funny things to cameras. B5 is a pretty straight-ahead color to mix, so I wouldn't think the brand of paint would make a huge difference. There are colors, such as M3 and Y3, that are very specific mixes requiring a particular brand (PPG only, single stage only for those two).
 
What he said,👆B5 is very similar to the Q1 on my triplets, as can be seen in the banner.
 
Well as you guys know all to well it's rare that you actually get good news when your tearing down a car, yesterday we pulled the motor & tranny, today charger man came over & we removed the tortion bars & dropped the K frame, He asked if it was a #'s matching motor, I said I never checked but I doubt it, so he cleaned off the motor tag & Holy crapoly it is a matching block, maybe this one will sell when I'm done beating the piss out of it!
 
Sometimes I think I'm going senile already, couldn't get a good pic of the vin off the rad. support & thinking I have to climb up in the rafters to get the one off the dash, well DOH I have the registration sitting in the drawer right next to me!!!!!!!
So it's confirmed for sure the block is a matching #'s piece.
 

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Need some help guys, I can't get the shaft that goes into the front of the torsion bar, the whole thing spins, the other nut came off later the shaft slid right out???
I've got the strut rod loose but I think the angles are fighting knocking it off from the back side???
Do I have to cut it maybe behind the K frame???
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So you're saying the bushing that is pressed on the end of the LCA shaft has broken loose and the shaft is spinning inside the LCA? If so the rubber has to be completely severed so you *should* be able to just pry the hell out of the LCA against the K-frame and get it apart. You might need to take the strut rod completely off to get it. You can't get a vice-grip between the LCA and K-frame, right?
 
I think I have a catch 22, the angle of the strut works against banging the LCA off, I can't seem to get the strut out with the LCA still tight in there.
There's not a lot of room between, but I'll try some vise grips tomorrow, I guess I need new pieces anyway so scoring it won't matter.
What is that shaft called, my friend looked em up the other day, a hundred & change each, but I want to see what a new one looks like & how it locks into the LCA / torsion bar?
 
I think that's called something like the LCA bushing pin. It locks into the LCA with a friction fit. The pin there presses into the bushing that presses into the LCA. The pin goes into the bushing goes into the LCA.

It all kind of locks itself together with the strut rod and the torsion bar holding the LCA in place.

I had some photos of mine apart in the 71 duster thread. Maybe. i know I took photos when I rebuilt the front end anyway.

Nope, I looked, didn't find anything other than a couple of photos of my special-purpose LCA bushing shell extractor.
 
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