Rusty's not very quiet cuda progress

Looks pretty damn good Rusty.
I love the way the car sits, just the right rake.

Did you ever think this day would come?
 
Yea, i'm a stubborn son of a bitch , it was just a matter of when, wating the last 3 years to buy the interior sucked, with every thing else pretty much done it was trying at the least!
 
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Geeze another new page, guess I gotta post another pic![smilie=f:Rich.
[IMG]http://i758.photobucket.com/albums/xx223/RustyCuda/cropfullqualitypics005.jpg[/IMG]
 
It looks awesome, Rusty. I love the color, I love the stance. I personally don't like Cragar S/Ss, but even those seem to work on that car. :clap:

Congratulations, man... all that work really paid in spades!
 
Ralleys would be my first choice,no money for them now,maybe on the 74, I really liked the slots, but with a price of 100 bucks with good tires on the cragers they were going on, once on they seemed to give it a little POP! No trim whatsoever so it's not overdone with chrome. I'm really happy with the end Look! Rich.
Just an after thought here, I gotta give you guys a ton of credit in the write up, got me through(& still are) tight spots, Thanks to all the nuts!:bravo: Rich.
 
I had the slots, kinda polished, never really got em to Gleem.
Now for the long asssed report on the car, we got some good news & some bad, the tranny mount is shot, thats both, good because thats the major klunk, the bad is now I have to change it!
Alignment had to be fudged a little, tie rods at max(one all the way in the other all the way out) still left us off a bit, adjusted the camber or maybe the toe to offset that, so it won't pull to the right(if I'm getting what he did correctly, but that brought all the #s on the mac to within point five.
The rear is off .75 on one side & .45 on the other, so they think it's not only in crooked but also bent a tad, they say nothin to worry about.
Got a power steering leak at the shaft, small oil leak at the rear, gonna tweek the oil pan bolts & see if that does it, it's that or the rear main seal?
Gotta adjust the kick down when we do the tune up sunday, was shifting in auto to soon.
Now for one of my better blunders, I had no nuts on the back of the strut rods, amazing they didn't fall out, must have removed them when I dismanteled, I couldn't get the rods out so I cleaned up the control arms & rods as a unit, reinstalled & never noticed the nuts were missing!
most other stuff seems ok so far, the mopar guy over there still hears a little rear end noise,sunday I'll have greg take a listen & see if we should dig further?
Considering what I did to this poor car I'm pretty happy with these results, now I didn't get the bill yet so that may change my good humor a tad!:shifty: Rich.
 
Getting the wheels to gleam is easy, but time-consuming. It's much easier if you have access to a brake lathe, but it can be done at home. If you want polished wheels, you have to start with sandpaper and work from there.

It sounds like the car may have been hit hard at some point and straightened, going by your alignment report.

I've seen original Mopar rear axles off center by over an inch (my friend's '74 'Cuda), but front-to rear again tells me the car was hit. If they got it to go down the road straight, it's probably nothing to cause worry.

Steering-box seal kits are available and inexpensive. Changing them is the trick, but I don't expect that to cause you much trouble. The rear leak is easy to diagnose--pull the inspection cover on the trans and put your fingers in there. If they come out oily, it's your rear main. Realistically, if you find motor oil on the converter upon removal of the inspection cover you don't even need to dig--the rear main's going to need to be replaced.

You can adjust the kickdown via the factory process, or use the simple method: either use your carb return springs to hold it wide open or do it with baling wire, and make sure the lever on the trans is all the way back at full throttle without restricting the throttle's travel at the carb. If the upshifts too low in drive, you may have a truck trans and need to replace the governer weights in the transmission with something from a car. Left alone in Drive, the car should shift at 5K or better under full throttle.

The rearend noise you're hearing may be an over-angled U-joint due to the shot trans mount. Change that first, then check it out again. I assume you re-checked your endplay yet again? Remember, under load the pinion lifts and with the shot trans mount it could be causing a noise in the drive shaft.

I'm not surprised the missing strut-rod nuts gave you no trouble; other than (nearly) full jounce or full rebound, the strut rods are under compression. Unless you whacked a really-big pothole or jumped the car they wouldn't have come out of position.

I can't even imagine the stuff I'll forget when the LB goes back together, if ever. I'm sure it will be way worse than a couple of strut-rod nuts.
 
K, gonna try & get the mount local so it will be here sunday when greg comes over, you wouldn't have a part # ? So I don't have to deal with kids at the parts store!
Part with the rubber has two bolts holding it to bottom of tranny & one sideways through the rubber if that helps. Thanks again,Rich.(posted a pic of the assembly a page back or so.)
 
Excellent! We can't beat her up too much (unless I get that mount)but a few test drives around the hood will be necessary:shifty:
Just let me know about what time your comming, Dave with the furys might stop by too! Rich.
 
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I would definitely suggest the Energy Suspension poly inserts, part number 5.1101G. That's assuming you have a parts store locally that deals with Energy.

The Anchor number for a complete trans mount is 2340 and the insert only is part number 2525. Your local parts guy should be able to cross those numbers if not use them directly. If you can't get the Energy Suspension insert kit (it's fantastic), I'd suggest going with the whole mount rather than the insert. I'm not sure the bracket on 2340 is 100% correct, but it will work as it should.
 
AutoZone uses universal pictures to represent one company, apparently. I got the part number right off my own trans-mount inserts.
 
K, ordered the anchor mount, I day transfer(energy was 3 or 4 days) should have it here tomorrow afternoon! thanks parts guru! Rich.
 
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